MS 260 chain and bar suggestions

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You can reasonably run 3/8 picco, .325, or 3/8 chain on a 260 depending on what you want to do with it. Personally I like to run bars that are on the short side of my saws' capability, so I generally run 16" bars on 50cc saws.

For a 260 I'd pick a 16" .325 bar unless I was only cutting firewood in which case I might go for 3/8 to get a chain that stays sharp a little longer.
 
I run 18 to 20 inch bars in by 50 cc saws. I dont always cut that big but for the odd time i do, i have enough bar to get the job done.
I have bigger saws for bigger stuff but dont bring them unless i know i need them.



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A "good bar length" depends on your needs when/how you use the saw. If the 260 is your only saw, probably best to go with 16"-18" .325 so you don't ask it to do more than it was designed for. If, like me, you want some extra reach and have larger saws for larger wood, go with 20" .325. I've experimented with 3/8" and it didn't impress me as a marked improvement. Have not tried 3/8"LP (Picco) but suspect I'd be sharpening more than I like.
 
I run 18” .325. It’s a nice middle ground of power and reach. .325 cuts smoother than 3/8 and keeps the rpms a little higher. 16” is a nice length for in-tree work, but I find it stubby on the ground.
 
What PG600 said.

Sweet spot for 028 0r 026/260 is 16" bar 0.325 " pitch 0.063 gauge. They will pull a longer bar but are marginal for power in a full cut/hardwoods, you'll have to go easy and not file rakers too deep. Also makes a difference with 7- vs 8- pin drive sprocket. A 7- will be slower but handle bigger cuts better without bogging.

If you are cutting dirty wood, or turf the blade in the ground get a semi-chisel chain that stays sharp better, if not full chisel cuts faster. For stihl chain that would be 23 RM or 23 RS

If you don't have a lot of time using a saw start out with a "safety" chain to help reduce kickbacks. I don't like safety chains but I've been running saws since the 1970s
 
I have the 16” picco kit from the UK. I was gonna use it on my 261 but i bought a 241 a week later with that set up so i never mounted it. It has a 16” bar, picco rim, and 3 PS chains.
 
What PG600 said.

Sweet spot for 028 0r 026/260 is 16" bar 0.325 " pitch 0.063 gauge. They will pull a longer bar but are marginal for power in a full cut/hardwoods, you'll have to go easy and not file rakers too deep. Also makes a difference with 7- vs 8- pin drive sprocket. A 7- will be slower but handle bigger cuts better without bogging.

If you are cutting dirty wood, or turf the blade in the ground get a semi-chisel chain that stays sharp better, if not full chisel cuts faster. For stihl chain that would be 23 RM or 23 RS

If you don't have a lot of time using a saw start out with a "safety" chain to help reduce kickbacks. I don't like safety chains but I've been running saws since the 1970s

That's what I am running on my 025.
 
What PG600 said.

Sweet spot for 028 0r 026/260 is 16" bar 0.325 " pitch 0.063 gauge. They will pull a longer bar but are marginal for power in a full cut/hardwoods, you'll have to go easy and not file rakers too deep. Also makes a difference with 7- vs 8- pin drive sprocket. A 7- will be slower but handle bigger cuts better without bogging.

If you are cutting dirty wood, or turf the blade in the ground get a semi-chisel chain that stays sharp better, if not full chisel cuts faster. For stihl chain that would be 23 RM or 23 RS

If you don't have a lot of time using a saw start out with a "safety" chain to help reduce kickbacks. I don't like safety chains but I've been running saws since the 1970s

Why the .063 gauge?
 
What is a good bar length..
I love this saw and I want to take good car of it … :chainsaw:

I grew up in and lived in Bridgewater for 30 years. Knowing the area and that you'll primarily be cutting gnarled and knotty hardwoods, go with a 16". I ran an 18" on my 260 and was very underwhelmed. With a 16" it really shines, especially in the twisted limbs of oak and maple. Either .325 or .375(3/8).
Such an awesome light little saw, and I've put more hours on an 026/260 than any other saw.
That being said, the short bar will require more bending over. But if you're into some big or very hard wood, (ash, hickory, ironwood, red oak) the cut times will be drastically reduced with a shorter bar.
Whatever you choose, keep it sharp.
 
16" in either 3/8 or .325 my first choice as long as I also have my 60 cc equipped with a 20 " when I want to take the step up. You get significantly more power and faster throttle response with .325 and a 7 tooth sprocket if you go to an 18 or 20" bar which work well for all around use providing you don't have a bigger saw when needed. 18" balances nice, 20 is a little nose heavy but is less back bending.
 

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