Ms 361 max bar length?

[Mac&Homelite]

So I have a little dilemma, I currently only have access to a ms361, and I have an upcoming project at some point requires me to cut some large rounds out of some elm for table tops. I know Stihl only recommends a 28'' max bar, but am I out of my mind if I want to use a 32-36'' bar in .050 3/8? The average diameter of the log is about 30'' and I really don't want to come from both sides and not have them line up. I can afford to go slow, that's not a problem as I only have about 5 or so cuts to make, but the oiler is what semi-concerns me. When I modify the oiler, as I can no longer find the ms460 high output, will it output enough oil to run a longer bar?

 

[rwoods]

You don't need to do two cuts. As long as your effective cutting length is more than one half the diameter you can cut it in one continuous cut. Just reach over the log and begin your cut on the side (begin below the centerline to the point where the log is narrower than your bar or work your way down below that point) then continue the cut back toward you.

Ron

 

[LonestarStihl]

Stihl max recommended bar for the ms361 was only 20" but most agree it'll do a 24". I personally haven't seen anyone recommend a 28" bar on it.

 

[X 66 Stang347 X]

That would be my only concern is the oiler. Will the 460 HO pump fit?

 

[blsnelling]

No way would I consider running a bar that long on a 361.

 

[X 66 Stang347 X]

He's only making 5 cuts. If he can keep it lubed it'll do it. A 30" can be easily cut with a 25-28" bar. In the ported thread a well know builder used along bar on one to keep the engine loaded and because he could.

 

[Mac&Homelite]

That would be my only concern is the oiler. Will the 460 HO pump fit?

The HO pump does interchange with this model. I was going to order an aftermarket (to match the rest of the saw- it's a Hutzl build) but I can no longer seem to find one, and I am not going to buy a oem. So I am just going to modify it instead. Again it's only for a few cuts and the saw itself is no longer stock (mm and light port). I might just have to get a longer bar and see how well it works if the oiler mod goes well.

 

[X 66 Stang347 X]

If your upgrade doesn't work out the HO pump is 1128 640 3250

 

[blsnelling]

You don't need anything more than a 20" bar for that job.

 

[Justsaws]

While it is possible to do that cut with a much shorter bar, it will be easier and most likely be better with a bar that makes the cut from one position straight through.

The 361 will do that with a 36" bar. It will need to be monitored and the chain sharpened frequently, after each pass for example. Make the cut with the chainsaw as straight and clean as possible to minimize the amount of work needed to be done to the end grain after the chainsaw cut. If having the top and the bottom of the rounds need to be parallel I recommend using a vertical guide board, squared off to the log. Try not to start and stop, bog, or change feed rate of the saw during the cut.

If possible have a helper standing by to place wedges into the cut to keep the kerf open while making the cut. Do not go nuts with it as the wedges will imprint on the wood surface and damage the outer portions if trying to preserve the bark, etc. Wider the wedge the better, homemade wood wedges if you do not have any manufacturered ones. Does not need to be a fancy pants falling wedge and should not be a splitting wedge.

One of the advantages of having the bar be longer than the cut is that the tip of the bar sticks out the other side and can be oiled if needed. Nothing fancy, oil needs to be applied to the chain, dripped or sprayed from a safe distance. That same helper that is there to place wedges could also be applying additional oil to the tip of the bar if needed while keeping themselves at a safe distance and be mindful of the obvious dangers.

 

[LonestarStihl]

No way would I consider running a bar that long on a 361.

I personally agree with this statement....

BUT...it's your saw and you can do what you want . So with that being said at least take video of it .

If you are going to do it definitely let it self feed and probably leave your takers high so it doesn't bite too much? And maybe having a helper to do some supplemental oiling? Just ideas that come to mind. I can't think of ever seeing a 50cc class saw pull a 36" bar so it'll be interesting to watch.

 

[CentaurG2]

My ms361 has all it can do to pull an 18” bar in hardwood. I personally think you are going to smoke your saw attempting this but if that happens its not really that great of a loss. Don’t know anybody with a bigger saw or a misery whip??

 

[Chainsaw Jim]

It looks like everyone missed your point of trying to make one clean cut with as nice of finish as possible for table top purposes....with what you have available.
You can do it but you'll want to use a chain with very tall rakers and very sharp teeth. You'll have to feather it and let it self feed. Maybe use a oil bottle for manual oiling while cutting.

 

[CentaurG2]

Elm isn’t the densest wood I have ever dealt with but it is plenty tough and fibrous. They used to make bridge abutments out if it around here. I think the powerhead will quickly build more heat than it can dissipate and the saw will roast.

 

[LonestarStihl]

Maybe just make your cuts, then drill a hole near the end of your saw and a nail down into the shortest part of the wood, then use that point to rotate the saw off of? May not work but in my head it's a cool idea

 

[X 66 Stang347 X]

Chainsaw Jim knows. He did it.

I figured I'd give the 361 a run with a 32" bar and a 3/8 .063 square grind

 

[LonestarStihl]

Well there you go

 

[dave53223]

So I have a little dilemma, I currently only have access to a ms361, and I have an upcoming project at some point requires me to cut some large rounds out of some elm for table tops. I know Stihl only recommends a 28'' max bar, but am I out of my mind if I want to use a 32-36'' bar in .050 3/8? The average diameter of the log is about 30'' and I really don't want to come from both sides and not have them line up. I can afford to go slow, that's not a problem as I only have about 5 or so cuts to make, but the oiler is what semi-concerns me. When I modify the oiler, as I can no longer find the ms460 high output, will it output enough oil to run a longer bar?

I did some milling with a 362 and a 32 inch bar. Don't push to hard and you will be fine. Let the saw idle for at least a minute before shutting it off. Let it cool off between cuts and i think you can get away with it.

 

[rwoods]

To each his own I supposed in this case. As noted above a 20" bar on a 361 should easily cut a 30" diameter log. And with the right technique can be done with less bending over than trying to cut straight down. Sure a straight down cut with enough horsepower will be quicker, especially if you elevate the log or get down on your knees. But with the power of a typical 361 you probably can't make a full down cut with a 32" bar any quicker than cutting with a nose buried 20" bar. I am typically a long bar guy and have argued here that they are easier on you when cutting small stuff at your feet and preferred for falling. Common theme for me with bucking logs is the less I have to bend over the better.

There must be more to the story as why spend the bucks for a short lived venture if it can be accomplished with what you have and in about the same time? H'mm a sub-variation of cad maybe? Like to tinker with the old saw? New long bar creates an excuse to upgrade to a saw designed for it? Or maybe it is really all about the table tops. If they are worth the cost of a bar and your intended upgrade then go for it. Either way I would cut it, they would still be wedge shaped.


Ron

 

[Michaelmj11]

I can't think of ever seeing a 50cc class saw pull a 36" bar so it'll be interesting to watch.

Isn't it a 60cc saw?

I did some milling with a 362 and a 32 inch bar. Don't push to hard and you will be fine. Let the saw idle for at least a minute before shutting it off. Let it cool off between cuts and i think you can get away with it.

I had been told by the local shop that idling a saw actually built up more heat than running it.




I think if I was attempting this, I would make the kerf/cut as close to a (yah I had to Google this) Isosceles Trapezoid, as possible. So I was doing everything I could to minimize the surface area the saw is trying to cut at any given moment.