Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by Nathan Graff, Aug 26, 2019.
No Accelerator pump on that carb.
I was wondering about that after looking at it again. Still think the carb is the primary suspect? Or should I be looking for seal leaks?
Well if you pressure test first then you can proceed to buy a new OEM carb if need be. You have to either pressure test or try a carb what ever is easier for you.
Are the huayi brand carbs the aftermarket ones that you found good? I found another thread where you talked about it, and you spelled it different, but I cannot find a thing about that brand online. Keeps referring me to Huayi carbs.
They are the best of the aftermarket carbs but you will have trouble finding one. Best to buy OEM now. You could send me that carb and I can tell you if its good.
I might just take you up on sending you the carb to test.
Currently, I'm digging around in my scrap piles for a block of aluminum to make a pressure tester. I might just make one out of UHMW poly. I don't do much with aluminum.
Having a bit of problem fuel related with my rebuilt T200 as well, third carb,- this time it runs great all around except after a 30 second cut, stalls out when it returns to idle and leave it for 30 seconds or so and starts and performs beautiful and does it again after a cut, crankcase vac- press test was 100 percent when I tested it, wonder if the tank breather is a little wonky ???
I saw a video where the fuel tank oring wasn't sealing right causing a problem similar to what you're experiencing.
OEM carb - yes
What model 126 by chance maybe it could be an accelerator pump leak??
will look later- sitting on my bench.... smell gas so I drained the tank last night, might not be holding pressure, will take it off and see what the Mityvac says.- not even sure what the accelerator pump looks like , not familiar with these carbs.
Does it have this plate?
Check your impulse line and see if its tight.
So, I swapped the carb out with a new one, and tuned the saw. I set the H and the L each 1/4 turn richer than max rpm at each setting. That fixed the no rev problem. That'll do the saw for the odd start in the winter to keep fresh gas in it. Any advice how to tune it better in the spring?
I tune at 1 turn out each the H and L. minor adjustments after that.
I think I wound up with about a turn and a quarter out on each screw. I started with each one one turn open from closed, then got it started and warmed up. Turned the idle control screw till it was just starting to move the chain, set the brake, found the fastest idle on the L screw, then added another 1/4 turn richer. That had the saw snapping up pretty quick. Then I released the chain brake, and ran it full blast and adjusted the H screw till I found what sounded like the fastest rpm, then richened it up 1/4 turn. It burbled a little at that with no load. I think all in all , each screw was opened about a turn and a quarter. Then I backed out the idle screw till the chain was no longer trying to move.
I wasn't too concerned about tuning it just right as it was -20C outside, and I had no intention of cutting anything. More just making sure the carb worked.
Did you have the "window" open between the engine & the carb compartment to allow for some warming of the carb?
I never in my life tuned one at that temp but here at Sea level and around 40 or so degrees Fahrenheit 1 turn out works fine.
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