Wait a minute Wolfie. Pulling over with the ignition off is a test of wether the advance is kicking back and may be to far advanced. Could still be ignition.
MS201t Problem
- Thread starter Ddogwood
- Start date
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I thought you meant interference.
Ddogwood
ArboristSite Lurker
Do you mean with it switched off? Or, do you mean with having taken the ignition module off?
Ddogwood
Ddogwood
ArboristSite Lurker
No. I haven't tried to pull it with the ignition off.
Ddogwood
Ddogwood
ArboristSite Lurker
I went out to the shop to give the saw a proper compression test, as we discussed yesterday, and spent the time trying to find my adaptor. I don't know what the heck happened to it, for I had used it a couple of days ago. Anyway, have ordered another one that should be here in a day, or two. I will let everybody know what the results are as soon as I get it.
Ddogwood
Calibrate it, check a newer saw first. A lot of times those adapters are way off . I tried one and got 130 and it should have been 160 . So I bought the Snap On adapter hose.
Why have you not? You see this could help determine if the hard pull is related to the ignition advanced to the point where it is kicking back. If the ignition is OFF you can tell. I guess this easy common sense stuff is gone now that we have the internet because it is easier to just come on here and ask for help. Mike
Read that.
You want him to just shut it off right not take it off to clarify.
I dont know if that would cause that saw to feel that hard to pull all through the stroke it would just give a little snap back when it tries to fire up,which we have all witnessed on some bigger saws occasionally.
Right but saws do funny things. Just flip the switch to off and see. I just can't see why the compression is so far up to cause this problem. The only one I had that was that hard because of compression was a removable head 066 and it way north of 200#.
Ddogwood
ArboristSite Lurker
Well, I got the adaptor and tested the saw. It tested out at 80 lbs. I then tested it on a new echo chainsaw, and it too tested at 80 lbs. Both tests held steady with no leaks. I also tested it on my 009, and got the same reading. I then put the adaptor in my older compression tester, and got the same reading. I know that this is about half of what it should read, but regardless of the the low calibration, I would have to say that the compression of the MS201T is not too high, or the cause of the hard pull.
Ddogwood
Ddogwood
ArboristSite Lurker
I did as you suggested, and pulled the ignition module off to see if it would make a difference, and, I am sorry to say, there was no change in the pull.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Ddogwood
Did you say that you replaced the crank? So you are using a different connecting rod to the piston?
Does your piston have slop in the bore that it is rocking and binding?
How was it to get compression test, the same?
Does your piston have slop in the bore that it is rocking and binding?
How was it to get compression test, the same?
Ever get the adapter?
Read about 3 posts back..
Sounds like it is in the normal range and the adapter is giving false reading but it puts it in with saws that operate normal so that cant be it.
Here's another wild stab. Have you taken a flywheel cover, complete with recoil, starter rope, etc., from another 201 & tried it in place of your original.
FWIW, when I bought my 201 in 2012, you could not pull the chain along the bar by hand when the clutch cover was tightened, even if the tension was loose enough to allow the chain to sag slightly. The problem turned out to be the little white plastic tabs in the clutch cover which bound the chain. Once the saw was started & revved a couple of times, the excess plastic was quickly worn away, & the problem was solved.
FWIW, when I bought my 201 in 2012, you could not pull the chain along the bar by hand when the clutch cover was tightened, even if the tension was loose enough to allow the chain to sag slightly. The problem turned out to be the little white plastic tabs in the clutch cover which bound the chain. Once the saw was started & revved a couple of times, the excess plastic was quickly worn away, & the problem was solved.
Ddogwood
ArboristSite Lurker
Yes, I replaced the crank and crankcase with used one that was in great shape. And, yes, I am using a different connecting rod to the piston.
The piston does not have slop in the bore, nor is it binding (that is to say: not noticeable when turning it through its cycle by hand) .
I am not clear on what you are asking about the question relating to the compression test?
Ddogwood
