MS241cm mods

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Well, my new 241cm has 10 tanks through it now and i would say that it is run in.
Just wondering what you guys are doing to squeeze more power out of these little gems

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Hi Matt ! There’s a guy on utube that really has these saws dialed in ... I believe the port-work was done by Hotsaws101 and then “tweeked” a bit by the owner ... Really has the saw ripping thru the timber like nobody’s business ... I’ll see if I can find a link
 
I finally got an 18" Picco bar for my 241, and I'm loving it. It was cutting good with the 18" 325 and a 7 pin sprocket. Now. It's cutting fantastic with the PM chain and 7 pin sprocket on the new 18" bar.

Interesting to note, the 18" Picco bar (3005 000 4817) is around 3/4" longer than the 18" 325 bar (3005 000 4717). Also, this time I had no choice but remove the rim and put it inside the chain, and installed the sprocket, bar and chain as one unit. It was so tight it didn't want to spin well. I cranked the oiler up, ran it for about 30 seconds, to get the chain hot. After I shut it off, I tentioned the chain up tight and let it cool off. Then reset tension and now everything is great. You can see how close the bar was to the sprocket.
 

Attachments

  • 20180712_171550_crop_753x844.jpg
    20180712_171550_crop_753x844.jpg
    589.1 KB · Views: 18
  • 20180712_173650_crop_806x517.jpg
    20180712_173650_crop_806x517.jpg
    283.7 KB · Views: 18
  • 20180712_173145_crop_776x604.jpg
    20180712_173145_crop_776x604.jpg
    360.3 KB · Views: 19
I finally got an 18" Picco bar for my 241, and I'm loving it. It was cutting good with the 18" 325 and a 7 pin sprocket. Now. It's cutting fantastic with the PM chain and 7 pin sprocket on the new 18" bar.

Interesting to note, the 18" Picco bar (3005 000 4817) is around 3/4" longer than the 18" 325 bar (3005 000 4717). Also, this time I had no choice but remove the rim and put it inside the chain, and installed the sprocket, bar and chain as one unit. It was so tight it didn't want to spin well. I cranked the oiler up, ran it for about 30 seconds, to get the chain hot. After I shut it off, I tentioned the chain up tight and let it cool off. Then reset tension and now everything is great. You can see how close the bar was to the sprocket.

Just so you know, that can put a lot of stress on the crank bearings to tighten up the chain while it's hot and let it cool that way. I've seen it specifically warned against in the manual (can't remember which saw, 361 maybe). Obviously what's done is done, but I wouldn't make a habit of it. Generally if I've had to adjust the tension while the chain is warm, I try to remember to back it off after cutting.
 
Just so you know, that can put a lot of stress on the crank bearings to tighten up the chain while it's hot and let it cool that way. I've seen it specifically warned against in the manual (can't remember which saw, 361 maybe). Obviously what's done is done, but I wouldn't make a habit of it. Generally if I've had to adjust the tension while the chain is warm, I try to remember to back it off after cutting.
Yeppers ... add a link
 
Or spend a minute making a little clearance with a file on the tail of the bar.

The tail of the bar isn't what the problem was. I should have gotten a 62 DL chain. The tensioner was bottomed out.

Ryan, I wasn't thinking about the crank bearings. Now I regret it, but like you said, what's done is done.
 
The tail of the bar isn't what the problem was. I should have gotten a 62 DL chain. The tensioner was bottomed out.

Ryan, I wasn't thinking about the crank bearings. Now I regret it, but like you said, what's done is done.

You can also use a round file to open up the adjuster hole a little. Obviously you don't want to make it so it doesn't work with the other chains or sprockets, but it's another trick to keep up your sleeve.
 
You can also use a round file to open up the adjuster hole a little. Obviously you don't want to make it so it doesn't work with the other chains or sprockets, but it's another trick to keep up your sleeve.

I'm going to pull it back apart. I think the tail of the bar may be rubbing on the raised part of the drum. I checked it again and it does make a hollow grinding noise when you spin it by hand. I'm going to use my 7 tooth spur and see how it works out. The issue started when I switched to the rim.
 
You can also use a round file to open up the adjuster hole a little. Obviously you don't want to make it so it doesn't work with the other chains or sprockets, but it's another trick to keep up your sleeve.

I used your file trick and opened up the adjuster hole to take some pressure off. Also, I switched to my 7 pin spur and it gave a little more space too. Spins easy now!

By the way, in the UK a 241 can be had with an 18" bar, and they are all .325. So I guess when I was running an 18/325/063 wasn't so strange after all.

Screenshot_20180714-220522.png
 
Back
Top