Wow there’s some unnecessary saltiness here.
OP-I strongly recommend a 3/8 setup for your saw.
OP-I strongly recommend a 3/8 setup for your saw.
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The number off teef is irreverent!!!
FNEC
ArboristSite Lurker
Hand grenade question!... it seems.
Thanks for all the input. Firstly I will not be running the 3/8 PS3 chain on the tuning kit, it only goes up to 16". This is because my 201T runs a 14" bar, so I have little to gain running a 16" version of that chain, albeit it is a rippppper.
I don't want to push the saw too far, I believe 18" is the suggested max length, to run a 20" with a 3/8 would be too much for the saw I would assume, which takes us even back to the 18", one could argue the .325 on 18" better for the saw than a 3/8, but a 16" with a 3/8 would be suitable. I won't be taking on big work and need speed, I am not a logger or even a tree surgeon but a gardener with the capabilties to rid the garden of the odd tree or hideous line of over grown fir trees that can develop meaty trunks. When the 201T runs out of size I have the MS261 to take over, taking bigger trunks and bucking them the likely use, everything else the 201T should handle.
Therefore a smoother less torquey required .325 on an 18" bar more than suitable for my needs? This smoothness perhaps starts to get onto safety (less grabby), added to another suggestion of running the RM over the RS, less kickback, but added benefit of not needing to sharpen as much or sensitivity to sharpening less. It can get dirty around soil level when taking stumps low so again sensitivity to dirt less on the RM. I could even go as far as RM3 for more safety but would I sacrifice some plunge capability with the RM3 due to its kickback protection?
So the 18" .325 RS is the standard for this saw, but its designed use is not quite my work requirement (you could say I started off with the wrong saw, but I got it for a good price on ebay and it was chunky for possible bigger work I might get), however changing the RS to a RM or RM3 would benefit me in smoother cutting, sharpen less, more resistence to blunting???
I also do not benefit in any way regards matching pitch to other saws (201T on a 3/8 PS3 and Pole on a 1/4 PM3) for sharpening tools etc by converting to 3/8 from the stock .325, and given my amount of use and bigger bar .325 does the job?
I also have no sensitivity to spend on a conversion so I would be free to go 3/8 if I wanted as I need bar and sprocket no matter what I do....oh but I would need another file and holder, so I don't see the need to go there, just stick with .325
Thanks for all the input. Firstly I will not be running the 3/8 PS3 chain on the tuning kit, it only goes up to 16". This is because my 201T runs a 14" bar, so I have little to gain running a 16" version of that chain, albeit it is a rippppper.
I don't want to push the saw too far, I believe 18" is the suggested max length, to run a 20" with a 3/8 would be too much for the saw I would assume, which takes us even back to the 18", one could argue the .325 on 18" better for the saw than a 3/8, but a 16" with a 3/8 would be suitable. I won't be taking on big work and need speed, I am not a logger or even a tree surgeon but a gardener with the capabilties to rid the garden of the odd tree or hideous line of over grown fir trees that can develop meaty trunks. When the 201T runs out of size I have the MS261 to take over, taking bigger trunks and bucking them the likely use, everything else the 201T should handle.
Therefore a smoother less torquey required .325 on an 18" bar more than suitable for my needs? This smoothness perhaps starts to get onto safety (less grabby), added to another suggestion of running the RM over the RS, less kickback, but added benefit of not needing to sharpen as much or sensitivity to sharpening less. It can get dirty around soil level when taking stumps low so again sensitivity to dirt less on the RM. I could even go as far as RM3 for more safety but would I sacrifice some plunge capability with the RM3 due to its kickback protection?
So the 18" .325 RS is the standard for this saw, but its designed use is not quite my work requirement (you could say I started off with the wrong saw, but I got it for a good price on ebay and it was chunky for possible bigger work I might get), however changing the RS to a RM or RM3 would benefit me in smoother cutting, sharpen less, more resistence to blunting???
I also do not benefit in any way regards matching pitch to other saws (201T on a 3/8 PS3 and Pole on a 1/4 PM3) for sharpening tools etc by converting to 3/8 from the stock .325, and given my amount of use and bigger bar .325 does the job?
I also have no sensitivity to spend on a conversion so I would be free to go 3/8 if I wanted as I need bar and sprocket no matter what I do....oh but I would need another file and holder, so I don't see the need to go there, just stick with .325
You certainly could run 20” bar with skip or full comp although that saw wouldn’t be best suited for 20” full comp in hardwood.
I haven’t had a chance to post the results yet but I did a test of 20” bars on 50 and 54 cc saws the other day. My muffler modded Poulan 5020 (less powerful than your saw) and my muffler modded/timing advanced Husky 154 (a little more powerful than your saw) both pulled 3/8 full chisel skip very well with bar buried in hardwood. The less powerful 5020 with skip actually cut a little faster than the 154 with full comp, which surprised me.
FNEC
ArboristSite Lurker
In fact can the older MS261 use the NEW Light bars and RS pro chains??
Ryan'smilling
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes, you can use any bar with the "mid size" 3003 Stihl mount, also called d025 by other manufacturers.
RS and RM are both similarly capable of kickback, no major difference there. RM is more tolerant of dirty wood. RS will be smoother and faster (when sharp).
.325 will be the smoothest. And have MORE torque in the cut than 3/8. 3/8 will probably cut a little faster.
Both will work. It's kinda a horse a piece. Personally if I was cutting mostly wood 10" and under I'd run .325. If I was bucking larger stuff mostly I'd run 3/8.
Yes it can. I run the .325 18" on my 261. I use the RM chain like others mentioned because it holds an edge in dirty wood better than the RS chain. I cut mostly hardwoods and never any problems with that set up. Good luck.
FNEC
ArboristSite Lurker
Weird
RM 18" .325 0.63 has 68 links
RS 18" .325 0.63 has 74 links
How so? Use same bar?
RM 18" .325 0.63 has 68 links
RS 18" .325 0.63 has 74 links
How so? Use same bar?
FNEC
ArboristSite Lurker
I have only seen one website in the UK offer the light bars and new pro chains and they want extra big money to post to Northern Ireland..... Royal Mail does not discriminate between N.I. and mainland UK so not sure where these internet companies feel the need to add such big surcharges on...Some don't post to N.I. at all!
Torque is measured at the output shaft and is not changed by sprocket diameter. A smaller sprocket diameter will result in more tension on the chain. Not sure the word to replace torque in this discussion.
Over time the tasks one chooses top vs read handle may change.
0.050 bar groove will give more chain choice in .325 pitch
Over time the tasks one chooses top vs read handle may change.
0.050 bar groove will give more chain choice in .325 pitch
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you are getting anywhere near dirt you have no business using RS chain... Unless you like to sharpen a lot and buy new chains. RM3 is the newer anti-kickback chain and bore cuts just fine. You can also use regular RM or RMC (or whatever they call it these days) if it is available. On this side of the pond it is available but on special order only.
Stihl likes to sell RS on pro saws because it cuts fastest in clean wood. It also dulls faster because of the single top point at the tip of the cutter. Once this tip is dull the chain is dull and you have to remove a lot of material to get it sharp again. The dealer wins again by selling more chains.
Probably the 3003 vs 3005 in Stihl bar class
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Something is WRONG here... like 16" vs 18" bar and 3003 vs 3005 mount.
RS vs RM refers ONLY to the cutter type... nothing more.
FNEC
ArboristSite Lurker
Okay I am going for a
Light 04 18" bar with a RM3 (pro) utilising a 1.3mm groove if I can order it anywhere other than World of Power and it's still a comparable price to the normal RM/RM3 elsewhere or just get RM/RM3 otherwise
Light 04 18" bar with a RM3 (pro) utilising a 1.3mm groove if I can order it anywhere other than World of Power and it's still a comparable price to the normal RM/RM3 elsewhere or just get RM/RM3 otherwise
FNEC
ArboristSite Lurker
Should have said RM3. Think what I mean here is both chains have the same pitch and length so surely that should equal the same number of links?
Stihl website says
Rapid Micro (RM), .325" 1.6 mm, 74 drive links
Rapid Micro 3 (RM 3), .325" 1.6 mm, 68 drive links
It appears from https://www.worldofpower.co.uk/stihl-bar-chain-guide
There are quite a few variations on a 18" RM for different saws, some 68 and some 74.... but it's still 18" for them all?!?
FNEC
ArboristSite Lurker
Y
Yep its the guide bar that matches the different links, i.e. different 18" Rollomatic Es foe different machines..... it's a minefield ordering the right things if you don't read the small print!
FNEC
ArboristSite Lurker
In the UK that appears to have a code of 3686 000 0074 (5 replaced with a 0). Usually matched on 271 and 291 saws. I'll go with that if I can't get the new light 04/RM pro.
