MS271 oiler working but no oil getting to the bar.

[trouts2]

No oil getting on the bar. I think it is leaking behind the bar down to the bottom of the case. It leaks over to the spur cover and throws oil all around the inside as shown.

If it runs with no bar the flow seems to be fine and leaks straight down to the base.

The bar oiler hole is clean. The bar groove is clean. I can spray PB in there and the spray lifts out of the bar groove and flows along bar groove.

I thought there might be some issue with the bar being flat against the case. I cleaned of the area where the bar fits against the case. There does not seem to be anything protruding to make the bar not lay flat against the case.

When I put the bar on the fit of the bar to the case seems to be fine, at lease by eye.

I crank the bar bolts on pretty tight but still get the leak and no oil on the bar.

There is no plate cover for this model which seems weird.

So the upshot is the oiler seems to be pumping fine. The bar hole and groove are clean but no oil on the bar. It just runs to the bottom of the case without a bar on. With a bar the oil gets into the sprocket area.

Picture shows the inside after being run with the bar on.



Shows oil flowing out of the oiler hole straight down with no bar on. The oil can be seen easily but it is pretty much going straight down from the oiler to the bottom of the case. No oil getting over to the sprocket area with no bar on.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[HarleyT]

Remove your bar adjuster, and just put it all back together and bench run it. See if that helps. It looks boogered in that area. and where the slot is.

 

[HarleyT]

Here is a new one for comparison.

 

[NSEric]

Your missing the bar oiler plate.
I google a pic of the parts diagram as I've never seen without one, it difinitly has one.

 

[HarleyT]

Bar oiler plate?

 

[HarleyT]

Here is the crankcase.

 

[trouts2]

@NSEric My IPL is SCS 01-2011 3.33. Page 9 shows the plate for several models. The next page lists which models get a plate. Models 1 and 2 do not use a plate. Only model #3 for the 271. (1) MS 271, (2) MS 271-Z, (3) MS 271 C-BE.

It does not have one but maybe installing one would help? I have to check the case numbers to see if they are the same for all three models. I'm pretty sure the saw is a #1 so a straight MS271, no Z no C-BE.

@HarleyT Before I ran the last tests shown I cleaned off that area which was much worse. It seemed like it was charred at some point by the prior owner. The raised area around the area seemed ok. I just went out and checked with the back of the metal hack saw blade. There are a few things in the way to getting a good reading for flatness. The chain adjust larger silver part is high but seems ok across that to the two edges by the oil hole. I have a True Bar and some flat metal rulers I can do a better check with tomorrow. The check of the left side seems flat but from the right facing side maybe 1/64th or less open. Not sure what that would be when the bar bolts are screwed down.

Just say there is 1/64th of space between the bar and oiler hold raised areas I would think that the sticky bar oil would not leak down fast enough for some to not leak across to the bar. ? But I might have crap bar oil in there versus the good sticky stuff. I don’t use this saw much. It only gets used for crap cuts when I don’t want to use my good saws.

I’ll try to take out that assembly tomorrow to see if the height is where it should be, like crud under it. It seems to be working ok. It looks from the IPL what you posted is not an assembly but 3-4 parts and probably $10 to $15 for them so not a big deal. Thanks for the picture. It helps make sense of the area.

 

[HarleyT]

It comes as a kit, the part number for the kit is 1127 007 1003.
Look at the top of the list of part numbers, it should be there without a reference number.
It is the same adjuster as found on the 029/MS290.
Looking at the Mediacat, the quick adjuster setup shows a bar plate.

 

[HarleyT]

1127 007 1003 CHAIN ADJUSTING KIT $12.88

 

[HarleyT]

Try mounting the bar/chain without the sprocket cover, just use washers instead, and then bench run it. You could have a chance to see where it is coming from.

 

[trouts2]

1141-664-1002 Inner side plate = bar oiler plate.

OK on the case picture. The tensioner area looks simple and easy to deal with. Thanks. Found some assemblies $15-$20. Huztl has them for couple of bucks.

Just realized that I’m checking the interior case side i.e. behind the bar. In front of the bar is a cover I did not look at so get that tomorrow.

@HarleyT just saw your other posts. So I think you are saying bar, no cover and use washers to fill. Nice check. I have a similar issue with an 044 and running without the cover with the bar attached could be very useful there. Thanks.

 

[NCPT]

What bar and chain are you using? How many drive links is in the chain? Make sure the hole in the bar is lining up with the groove on the saw when tension is set on the chain. The hole on the bar could be going too far (fore or aft) of the groove on the saw when proper chain tension is set.

 

[trouts2]

@NCPT The bar is 3003-812-6817 SA .325 .063 74 links 18”. The prior owner had this number bar on it and gave me a used bar of the same number and three new bars in packaging with the same number.

The oiler hole seems to be lined up with the bar hole.

I ran it with bar and chain but no cover using washers and the bar nuts. When running the oil does not get to the chain. The oil flows from the oiler hole to the bottom left side of the back of the bar. The inside part of the back of the bar. The flow of air from the chain causes the oil to go backwards toward the sprocket cover so the oil ends up in the sprocket area looking like the picture I posted above. So it seems like the flow of oil from the oiler output port is down instead of into the bar hole. It flows down and to the left to the left side of the left bar post then to the bottom of the back of the bar.

The case parts that the bar goes up against seem flat. When the bar is tightened and I shine a flashlight on the top and bottom of the bar case fit the top and the bottom seem to touch and flat. Since oil is not getting in the oiler hole and traveling as I mentioned then I must be missing the path.

I ran it four times without the cover. I cleaned up the plastic part that I think is called a bumper strip that was black. I scraped that and the raised part of the case and they seem flat. Each run I checked for the bar case match and it seemed good. It seems some oil should be getting on the bar via the bar hold even if there is not a good flat match of the bar to case so that is a puzzle also. Stuck still so have to look at it again tomorrow.

 

[Mwhitco]

Hello
I am a new member on Arboristsite and have been searching online for information about the oiler on my new Stihl MS271 (ver. C I think). The chain has been running pretty dry compared with saws I have used in the past.
The bar is still good due my occasional dipping into a container of good tacky bar & chain oil. Having removing the bar /chain then running it, it was easy to see the pump is working very well.
I could find no adjuster on the bottom of this saw, as was referred to on several posts online. There were no adjustments to be found, even after removing and inspecting the oil pump.
I saw where it was mentioned in your post that flatness was a consideration where the bar goes against the housing, to prevent oil leakage.
My main focus had been the pump, and had not considered that the oil may have just been not getting to the bar and chain.
On checking the area around the drive sprocket, it did seem it was getting quite oily there, suggesting excessive leakage.
I decided to make a gasket to put between the bar and housing, to see if this would make a difference. Using 1/32" rubberized gasket paper and making appropriate cutouts, I then placed it between the bar and saw housing.
The difference was dramatic. It is now possible to make cuts at full throttle for several minutes at a time, with no heating of the bar or chain.
Thanks for mentioning the possibility of oil getting out through a space.
Mike, [email protected]

 

[Mwhitco]

Here are photos of the homemade gasket on the MS271 housing, and the visible amount of oil now getting to the bar & chain.