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Ms460 Rebuild

ssm1699

ssm1699

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So, I was given an oem crankcase, crank, p&c, flywheel and coil, all assembled that is a ms460. I am slowly rebuilding it so that I have another saw in my arsenal. This is the flywheel that was on it. Would you guys run it or get another used poly flywheel???


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ssm1699

ssm1699

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That is a thought, that I hadn't thought of doing. I guess I wonder how much that will affect the air quantity being provided for cooling. No, it won't be used for milling and I tend to run my saws with a little extra oil (32-40:1). But I also am one that doesn't like to half a$$ something either, if it is going to negatively affect things.

Yes, when I got the power head, it was seized. The rings were stuck in the piston from carbon and the wrist pin & bearing are getting replaced. But everything else feels beautiful in it, for the lower rotating assembly. The oe piston and cylinder are just fine as well. Already have a new set of caber rings on the piston and measured end gap for placement on the piston. It will be getting a new set of oil seals too.

This is all why I said it was going to be a slow build, as I am doing this in pure free time, as well as having other priorities. It will also be a slow build because I plan on trying to use good used oe parts for as much of it, as possible. Not opposed to using some AM, as that is what the fuel tank and plastics will be. But the brake handle and brake are going to be oe. Prefer to run an oe oil pump, that has been made into an HO pump. The biggest area I wanted to be as oe as possible, I have. Like I said in my beginning post, just looking for input, more or less.

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ssm1699

ssm1699

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Here is another question I have for my build. I already have an AM side cover that will work on the 460. The holes in the cover aren't tapered for the bar studs. What size drill bit and how deep has everyone been going for modifying their side cover to work???


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TheAMMIXman

TheAMMIXman

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Not sure about the side cover thing. Measure the bar studs with a micrometer or even a normal wrench and compare to a drill bit. Wrap some tape at the height of the drill bit where you wish to stop, or a hair before.

I’d likely replace the flywheel if it were me but that man has a point about breaking a fin if you do a good job of it. Price has also gone up, they’re not usualy $20 on fleebay anymore unless they have a cracked fin.

Take your time. Have fun. Mine was a $10 tag sale item I built one father’s day at a time (and some late nights cleaning up the ports). Here a pic of mine. I bead blasted and cleared the case and covers so it would look as old as it is but be new. 2F33FCE0-BEF0-4B58-A491-E934DCD5DD09.jpeg
 
jltrent

jltrent

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IMO that fin off the poly flywheel want hurt a thing. I have seen caked up oil, saw dust under and all over a flywheel that would throw the balance off more than that. On the cover I would use a dremel and small grinding wheel or maybe a drill press where I could control how deep to bore out.
 
TheTone

TheTone

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If you leave the flywheel as is, you won't have balance problems. If you do a symmetrical removal of the fin on the opposite side, there will be no significant loss of airflow. Either way you're OK.
 
ssm1699

ssm1699

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Thanks for all the input guys. I hopefully have a used flywheel coming and will keep this damaged one as a spare.

Another question I have is about doing a pressure and vac test. I have done that before, but never before having a tank mounted or having a muffler. Just looking for other ideas, as my tank/handle assembly won't be here for awhile and I would like to maybe test it before it gets here, so that I can make sure it is good to go before hand.

I do realize that pressure and vac test, tests the entake as well. That is why I am looking for other ideas.

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TheTone

TheTone

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Another question I have is about doing a pressure and vac test. I have done that before, but never before having a tank mounted or having a muffler. Just looking for other ideas, as my tank/handle assembly won't be here for awhile and I would like to maybe test it before it gets here, so that I can make sure it is good to go before hand.
I do realize that pressure and vac test, tests the intake as well. That is why I am looking for other ideas.
I like to test mine with the intake manifold on and the pressure/vac tester connected to the impulse line. This eliminates two problem areas from the test. Without a muffler, you'll have to fabricate a block off plate from metal stock. A piece of inner tube between the port opening and the plate will seal it off. I bought a set of graduated rubber stoppers, very inexpensive, from the Widgit Co. and use the largest one that will comfortably fit into the manifold. Grease the stopper at the point where it stops in the manifold. I use Dow Corning High Vacuum Silicone grease, but probably any would do. At that point, with the sparkplug tight, you are ready to connect the P&V tester to the impact line. if you test without the manifold on, you will need a block off
plate for the carb as well.
 
ssm1699

ssm1699

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I guess my biggest thing is what people have used to stop up the intake, if testing without having the tank on. I would prefer to test with the intake on and usually test through the impulse line as well. I have rubber to block off the exhaust port already. Again, the biggest concern was blocking off the intake.

What are the tapered plugs you used???

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ssm1699

ssm1699

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Yes, I can and have looked up that company. Just wanting to make sure I get what works and not waste my money on something that will give me trouble, since there are different compositions of rubber plugs available. That is why I asked what he got. I didn't ask what the company is again.

I am not a useless kid that can't do leg work. Have definitely worked on plenty of stuff and know my way around things. Just not going to pass up educational help from someone that has already done what I am asking about.

Have worked on things as small as a weed eater rebuild to as big as almost a full rebuild of a big block chevy. Working on and testing mechanical items doesn't bother me.

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PV Hiker

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I bought a set of graduated rubber stoppers, very inexpensive, from the Widgit Co. and use the largest one that will comfortably fit into the manifold.
https://www.widgetco.com/epdm-rubber-stoppers

Measure your diameter of intake at the cylinder and find the solid rubber stopper that is within that measurement. They are tapered so pick one that the small end will fit into the hole and seal up. I'm sure you can find these locally at True Value or hardware store etc..
 
TheTone

TheTone

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Yes, I can and have looked up that company. Just wanting to make sure I get what works and not waste my money on something that will give me trouble, since there are different compositions of rubber plugs available. That is why I asked what he got. I didn't ask what the company is again.
I bought the plain black rubber stoppers. They don't have to be anything special, as they are not subjected to extreme conditions. If you are planning on working on different saws, you will need the ones in the range of the manifold diameters. I bought these and the tiny ones too, as these are useful for plugging vacuum lines, etc. I have found that grease is usually necessary on the manifolds to get a good vacuum seal.
 
ssm1699

ssm1699

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Thanks for the info. Just wasn't sure if you had selected a specific rubber compound, so that it wasn't to stiff or soft, so that it sealed properly. Again, thanks for the info.

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ssm1699

ssm1699

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What kind of muffler mods are or have you guys done to your 460s? Getting more parts in today, of which includes the muffler and plugs to plug up the intake. Will hopefully be doing a vac and pressure test tonight. But figured I could also do a muffler mod on the build. Muffler I bought, should be a dual port already and I am planning on either opening up or completely removing the baffle inside. Anything else that should be done to the muffler???

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Justin Taylor

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What kind of muffler mods are or have you guys done to your 460s? Getting more parts in today, of which includes the muffler and plugs to plug up the intake. Will hopefully be doing a vac and pressure test tonight. But figured I could also do a muffler mod on the build. Muffler I bought, should be a dual port already and I am planning on either opening up or completely removing the baffle inside. Anything else that should be done to the muffler???

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There should be no baffles and i did 75% of the exhaust port on my 440
 
ssm1699

ssm1699

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Thanks Justin. I assumed it had the baffle, since everything else I have been into, did. The new muffler showed up and was waiting on my door step for me at lunch, of which it definitely doesn't have one. It is already a dual port front cover, so it should be good to go.

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TheAMMIXman

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What kind of muffler mods are or have you guys done to your 460s? Getting more parts in today, of which includes the muffler and plugs to plug up the intake. Will hopefully be doing a vac and pressure test tonight. But figured I could also do a muffler mod on the build. Muffler I bought, should be a dual port already and I am planning on either opening up or completely removing the baffle inside. Anything else that should be done to the muffler???

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I made some plates to cover my dual port for different stages of break in. My understanding is that during break in it is not great to have no back pressure at all when seating the rings.

I already had what I beleive is a factory dual port cover with the ability to cover the slot somehow, I was just missing the cover. I made three with varying stages of breathability. I’ve left the one with five holes on it for about two tanks now after the intitial three or so I put on the more restrictive covers, and it pulls a 36” bar with good enough results to cut stumps low for me. I still have it running rich and under 13.5, and I bet at 13.5 it’s still rich. It’s a big bore kit and ported by me(not that I know what I’m doing, I don’t).

I’d like to find an A/F meter I could use in conjunction with the tac I have permanently installed on the saw so I could really know how rich or lean. In all the chainsaw you tube I’ve watched I’ve never seen one.

I bought some steel from the hardware store, and 30 mesh from amazon. The mesh was cheap and is holding up!!

Hope this helps
Bruce
008514A8-B721-43AD-B596-30D0455E83D2.jpeg 63DD0D08-9C5F-4CAA-B877-2181F22C5464.jpeg
 
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