Ms460 Rebuild

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Been working on saws for 34 years and I never heard of this. Where did you get this info??????????
Honestly I thought I read it on here. Spent some time on here quietly researching when I started building my 046 some years ago. It did not make total sense to me at the time either because I bet most of the pressure the rings feel is on the compression stroke not when the spent gasses are leaving, but when it’s all leaving and the exaughst port window is open whatever pressure in the muffler is probably equal to what is on the rings at that time. Me not being a life long chainsaw nut I figured better safe than sorry and I made those plates. Knowing myself I probably did read it in more than one place if I put the effort into making those covers.

Is it true?? Now I really don’t know.
 
Enjoy you saw.
Ohh I am. I had no use when building it, I just wanted it. $10 tag sale find. Had no idea what it was when I got it. Now I use it to cut stumps low before grinding them, something I do part time.

I have so enjoyed this saw. I spent 4 Father’s Days building it and some late nights/early mornings porting it. Father’s day because that’s what I half jokingly chose to do on my first father’s day since I wasn’t allowed to touch it any other time , and it stuck. lol. I have a 6 min video of my boy assembling the pump side of the carb for it when he was three! I have pictures of my daughter bundled up and in a frog chair before she could even walk after feeding her some early morning then going out to the garage with her while porting the cylinder some and letting mommy sleep. No Bs.

I have loved building this saw. My kids participated. On so many levels. My daughter was “in the bucket” when I got it for $10. She is the reason I got it for $10. The guys wife made him. We were all sweating. It was hot. He wanted $50 and it was probably worth it. She’s like “he’s holding a baby honey sell him the saw”. He was already at 20 but I figured I could get it for less, like I said I didn’t know what it was.
 
I will keep watching your info on the back pressure, as this is a slow build for me.

I was able to get the piston and cylinder on it this evening. Started out with a pressure test and it wasn't building pressure. Flip the saw with the clutch side up and squirted soapy water, bubbles galore. I was hoping, but figured I was going to have to do seals on it. Exactly why I held off on putting the flywheel and oil pump on, just yet. Had a feeling it was going to be the case. So, gotta get new seals. Such is life.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
That I didn't know. At the same token, how can you check that seal for a leak if the clutch and all are in the way. Also how can those affect that test, when there is a snap ring on the crank, to keep the worm gear from contacting the seal???

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
That I didn't know. At the same token, how can you check that seal for a leak if the clutch and all are in the way. Also how can those affect that test, when there is a snap ring on the crank, to keep the worm gear from contacting the seal???

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
I was wondering the same exact thing. Didn’t make sense to me either. Hopefully they will explain.
 
That I didn't know. At the same token, how can you check that seal for a leak if the clutch and all are in the way. Also how can those affect that test, when there is a snap ring on the crank, to keep the worm gear from contacting the seal???

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
your gauge will leak down ,& if all other spots are good with the bubble
test ,you eliminate it down to the seals
 
Ok, I get that. But again, how does having the clutch and oil pump on, affect the outcome of a seal test when the seal in question has a snap ring protecting it from allowing the oil pump worm gear to rub on it??? That means there should be absolutely no pressure applied to that seal, from those components.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
ssm1699 I think these guys have the 044 mixed up with the 046. The 044 has a sleeve that needs to be on and tightened down before the test. I don't think the 046 does. People are so anxious to help they sometimes get mixed up. Mike
Thanks guy. This had me wondering too.

Without owning an 044 myself I’d say you are certainly correct. It makes sense to me. And neither the 046 or my 460 clone have a sleeve on the shaft in that area. Just the clip to keep the worm drive off the seal, or so I’ve been told that’s it’s purpose.

Thank you for chiming in with your specific knowledge.

Bruce
 
That does make sense to me as well, as I do know, with out actually having seen or worked on one, that the 044/MS440 has that sleeve. It makes sense that those parts need to be on to help retain that sleeve. I didn't think of that, until your post. Just wasn't making sense with the 460 that I am working on. Thanks for the clarification.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
Ok, so got the new clutch seal put in and it passes p&v tests. Got the oil pump, clutch and sprocket on. Just working on other things with it, til the new tank comes in. How important is the foil tape under the muffler on these saws??? I know that it seemed pretty important on the 660, but this saw looks like it has never had it. I have the foil that I can put on it, just being curious.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
Ok, so got the new clutch seal put in and it passes p&v tests. Got the oil pump, clutch and sprocket on. Just working on other thin HF s with it, til the new tank comes in. How important is the foil tape under the muffler on these saws??? I know that it seemed pretty important on the 660, but this saw looks like it has never had it. I have the foil that I can put on it, just being curious.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
You know. I’m not sure. But I’ve been using the metal tape for sheetmetal ductwork recently. Untested as of yet, I just started using it this winter but I figure it’s as good or better as the right stuff.

It will now be under one muffler and on the bottom of two chainbrake handles, just replaced one on my “genuine” 046 this AM, and the 460 clone has it too. The 460 clone kit didn’t come with that or the crankcase gasket or the reflective tape. Odd that it had the muffler and base gaskets, two of each.

Anyway. That’s what I been doin as of late. Tryin reflective tape from the hardware store. It’s what I had around. I didn’t want to put nothing.
 
I will say I think that if it stays stuck on it’ll be better than whatever came with the last gasket kit I used in the 046. The stuff off the roll feels much thicker and stronger. Sticks good for now. If it stays I think it will be better than “the right thing”.
 
How far does the stud stick out of the flange, that the air filter and cover mount to? The flange that I got is a farmertec flange, so the stud isn't mounted to it and it doesn't stop or bottom out when I put it in. So I was going to put some blue loctite on it and put it in at the length it should be. I can't test fint anything, as I don't have my tank or filter or anything needed to mount all that stuff. Just looking to work on little things, while I continue to wait for my tank and covers to come in.

Also, on another note, thinking of painting my recoil starter black and dyeing the orange plastics, black. I know that everyone uses rit dye for the plastics. What does everyone use for the recoil assembly, if they paint it? The parts I am wanting to change colors of, are AM parts. That is the only reason I am thinking of doing it.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 
How far does the stud stick out of the flange, that the air filter and cover mount to? The flange that I got is a farmertec flange, so the stud isn't mounted to it and it doesn't stop or bottom out when I put it in. So I was going to put some blue loctite on it and put it in at the length it should be. I can't test fint anything, as I don't have my tank or filter or anything needed to mount all that stuff. Just looking to work on little things, while I continue to wait for my tank and covers to come in.

Also, on another note, thinking of painting my recoil starter black and dyeing the orange plastics, black. I know that everyone uses rit dye for the plastics. What does everyone use for the recoil assembly, if they paint it? The parts I am wanting to change colors of, are AM parts. That is the only reason I am thinking of doing it.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
My clone build is a famrtec. My threaded rod did have a solid bubble in the middle that stopped it. To answer your question mine sticks out the back about one thread. No more. I dropped some blue loctite on it from the outside on the back as well as covering the threads before install. I just didn’t want mine coming out with the air filter someday.

I know the flange is aluminum but I would consider using red loctite if yours doesn’t stop in the middle on its own, your probably never going to take it out, nor want it coming out.

Make it look how you want to I say. I did on my old girl, my genuine 046 with AM top end. Mostly just blasted the aluminum case and covers leaving a little white, then cleared em. Figured it wouldn’t scratch up so bad, look old, but be new.

7F3532D2-AC97-4BA5-B126-82DD1EC9739B.jpeg
03C9B528-5817-461A-A656-380D9AF23AED.jpeg
 
My clone build is a famrtec. My threaded rod did have a solid bubble in the middle that stopped it. To answer your question mine sticks out the back about one thread. No more. I dropped some blue loctite on it from the outside on the back as well as covering the threads before install. I just didn’t want mine coming out with the air filter someday.

I know the flange is aluminum but I would consider using red loctite if yours doesn’t stop in the middle on its own, your probably never going to take it out, nor want it coming out.

Make it look how you want to I say. I did on my old girl, my genuine 046 with AM top end. Mostly just blasted the aluminum case and covers leaving a little white, then cleared em. Figured it wouldn’t scratch up so bad, look old, but be new.

View attachment 793476
View attachment 793498
PS mine was for sure “flashy” as it appears it is a MIM I wouldn’t call them burrs. I cleaned it up with a dremel then a brass wire wheel. If you have plenty of time I would consider doing the same. I tried to change mine as little as possible and just clean it up, I figure it’s shaped just like that for a reason.
 
Back
Top