I would probably try compressed air from the inside to remove the bigger stuff. Eventually, there will be enough carb spit-back oil on the element to hold the fines to the element. Then you'll have to come up with something else to remove both the oil and the fines.Max flow without the covers isn't bad. The cover is a little bigger but the filter is much easier to clean than the HD2. When you pack an HD 2 with two nations of milling dust/chips they don't tap out that easily.
I believe that it has been mentioned before, but I'll say it again here.Why no wrap saws on the rh coast ? i never understood that . You guys have 2 hands just like us .
Great post. I agree with you. Home owners in the east aren't worried about residual stump height, and why, because we get them all ground down by local wood chucks anyway. Assuming of course you are talking about"yard trees".I believe that it has been mentioned before, but I'll say it again here.
In the PNW pro saws that offer wrap handles are often purchased by loggers. On the east coast pro saws are often purchased by landscaping crews who will be servicing homeowners concerned with leaving minimal stump on tree removals. On flat ground, a half wrap can cut a bit lower than a full wrap.
Wrap handles are required equipment for BC fallers on saws with 24"+ bars.
The primary advantage is they let you work on either side of a tree when felling. The ability to work on either side of a tree is an important safety measure, and especially important when one side is difficult to approach, mostly due to uneven terrain seen out west and up north. On the east coast the terrain is often flatter and either side of a tree is available to cut from.
While you can "back bar" from the opposite side with any saw, you cannot "dog in" and have the saw self feed into the cut. On smaller or occasional trees this method may not be an issue, but on larger trees, often seen in the PNW, for fallers working all day, stamina for back barring is difficult and tedious.
Therefore, wrap handles are preferential for reducing fatigue, allowing the operator dogging in and felling larger trees when circumstances force approaching from the alternative side due to terrain. On the east coast the wood is harder but often smaller diameter, and flatter terrain often make wrap handles simply extra weight and cost.
Yes I agree with you. It was just a frustrating process.Glockem45, when I bought my 460 a few years ago, I went through the exact same thing you did. The dealer kept saying Resque saw. Finally they called Stihl in Virginia. I can't put much blame on the dealer. They know everything about what is in the store, but something out of the norm in a particular area is understandable. Also most Stihl dealers carry lawn mowers, snow lowers, tractors, ect.. I guess you can't expect them to know complete product lines of every manufacture they carry. The dealer did get it for me and they do treat me well. I know when I research something, usually I know more than the salesman. I'm glad you got it worked out.
Yes, it _can be_ mountainous, but as I said it is _often_ flatter. It's hard to categorize an entire side of a continent. There are wrap handles used in the east, but I was making a generalization to understand the generalized mentality against wrap handles in the east.Great post. I agree with you. Home owners in the east aren't worried about residual stump height, and why, because we get them all ground down by local wood chucks anyway. Assuming of course you are talking about"yard trees".
Also, while the wood is smaller here in the east (e.g. Yellow poplar or red oak compared to the mighty Doug Fir in PNW), the terrain is just as hardy. Come log out in the mountains of southern or eastern West Virginia, and a wrap handle shines.
Like I said. I agree with you.Yes, it _can be_ mountainous, but as I said it is _often_ flatter. It's hard to categorize an entire side of a continent. There are wrap handles used in the east, but I was making a generalization to understand the generalized mentality against wrap handles in the east.
They didn't fix that stupid problem when they came out with the 461 .
Got the big dogs on my 026 also but inside only, they dont line up evenly with outside dawgs and it functions better with inside only
I can take the dogs off muh 066 and put them on an 026. But not 046\461, great ingenuity there!
Thanks will do , I’d like to have the R model over the regular version because of the H.O. Oiler and dogs. Here in WV timber cutters don’t really use the wrap handlebar because of cutting so low to the ground bore cutting. I think I’d like to try it and if I don’t like it I’m sure I can trade someone here for a regular set of bars. Thanks a lot for your help.Tell them to look on the 461 boxes or call Stihl Southwest.
461R (wrap) also comes with double dawgs which are not standard on the 461 I believe. I know that the first 461 I bought years ago only came with oneI joined this forum after reading the questions and comments about the MS-461. First of all, I'm sorry your Stihl dealer could not answer your question. I am a Stihl dealer and it's our job to know the answers or to, at least, get you the correct answer.
So here it is in a nut shell. First one (MS-461). This the standard model. It is available with a 16, 18, 20, 22, 25, 28, 32 or 36 inch bar. Second (MS-461R). This the same as the standard model except it comes standard with a full wrap handle.
Third (MS-461R Rescue). This model is specifically made for first responders, civilian and military. It comes standard with a full wrap handle, 20 inch bar with carbide saw chain and a large D-ring starter grip. Forth (MS-461R Rescue DL)
This model is the same as the MS-461R Rescue except it comes standard with a Depth Limiter. A device that attaches to the saw and allows only the first 3 inches of the saw to do the cutting so what ever it is, or who it is, behind what ever they are cutting does not get damaged or injured. Motor displacement and HP are the same one all models.