MS462 Bar Size... is bigger better???

[nch209]

So I decided to upgrade my 362 which I ran a 20" on, as I wanted a little more power and a little bigger bar... you know how it goes. Anyway, I'll be outfitting my new 462 with a stihl light bar with full comp chain, and had in my mind to run as small as I need which is 25", but a poster in another of my threads mentioned just going to 28". 25 will cover me, and may just require a few extra cuts for big wood, but not too often. For now this will be my only saw, and may pick up a 261 if I cross a deal on one for the small needs...

So am I right in going with a 25, or would I be happier 28? I know it's a relative question, but I sure appreciate the comments!

 

[RyeThomas]

A 24” Sugihara lives on my 462, it’s my do it all saw. I also have 20”, 28”, 32” lightweight bars for her but the 24” stays on her 90% of the time. So I say 24, JMO.

 

[Ketchup]

25” will feel more powerful and be easier to handle. The 28” is nice sometimes, but isn’t as user friendly for a one saw plan.

 

[user 122190]

Cutting a tree with a to small bar can create some ugly hinges, and consequently make for a dangerous fall. If you are going to drop a BIG tree then get a BIG bar. I have a 32" bar and I've only used it twice, and was glad I had it. For me, 99% of the time 24 is more then enough. YMMV.

 

[ShneaSIG]

It's all personal preference. I don't like to use any bigger of a bar - or saw - than I need. Wears me out too much, otherwise. I only go to a bar longer than 20" when the wood requires it. I wouldn't want to run a 28" bar full-time!

 

[Slackjaw]

I also "upgraded" from a 362 to a 462C (MMWS).

I plan to use a 20" skip tooth & full comp for general use. I did buy a 24" & 28" but will only use them when needed. (bucking big firewood rounds.)

In hindsight, I should have just bought the 20" & 28" and used full skip on the 28".

My 261c covers small saw duties very well.
Love that thing with a 18" LW bar and semi chisel skip tooth.

I have never held the 462c, it's still at Randy's shop. 8/16 (this Friday) will be 8 weeks, so it won't be long before I get to break it in. Pretty stoked.

 

[andy]

I believe that was me in the other thread mentioning 28"
.
I still would look at the trees you need to do.... see what bar makes the most sense.
Maybe even go around and flag em.
The 462 can pull 28 as well as 24 in most wood I imagine.
On my land 28 makes more sense for my main felling saw.... could even have chosen 32 but 28 does it.
There is no sense in having a longer bar that still leaves you needing to make a trip around the tree to finish a hinge.
Cheers!

 

[catbuster]

I like 28 if I’m only running one saw at with one bar. It’s big enough to handle most wood I come across, and I feel like it’s about all a 462 wants. The balance isn’t very good either.

Its predecessors could all pull down and hold RPM with long bars. This current model, well, doesn’t do it. Most of the wood in VA can be handled with a 28 though. The short stroke just doesn’t impress me, neither do the soft AV springs & mounts.

The other thing is that I’m in the five and a half foot range and I like the length at a 28 so I don’t have to bend over to limb. My 6’4 buddy likes a 32. You can lose some weight limbing with a small saw with a short bar but it’s at the cost of your posture, and over time, your lower back. Because, well, kneeling while running a chainsaw is bad when a tree lets loose and you can’t get away. Your arms and shoulders may be tired at the end of the day, but it’s a lot better than being hit with a moving chain, crushed by a log or kicked through the air by a tree that chairs or comes off the stump.

Once again, I’m only taking two saws with me in the truck. They’re usually copies of each other, or at least very similar. Right now I’m running a 461 with either a 28 or 32 and an 046 with one of the aforementioned length bars. They share a lot of parts, and the bars/chains interchange. The other thing is that I don’t lose anything if one goes down. I can start the other right up and go right back to the same work I was doing.

However, I do more production work than I expect most people do here. So, your needs may vary.

 

[Canyon Angler]

I also "upgraded" from a 362 to a 462C (MMWS).

I plan to use a 20" skip tooth & full comp for general use.

Curious why you would use a skip tooth chain on a 20" bar on a ported 462...you cutting petrified wood?

 

[Slackjaw]

Curious why you would use a skip tooth chain on a 20" bar on a ported 462...you cutting petrified wood?

Honey locust.
It dulls a chain in under 10 cuts.
Very high silica content.
If you buck at dusk, sparks are easy to see.
Less cutters to sharpen.
I may switch gears and just buy a bunch of those cheap Chinese chains.

 

[buttercup]

So I decided to upgrade my 362 which I ran a 20" on, as I wanted a little more power and a little bigger bar... you know how it goes. Anyway, I'll be outfitting my new 462 with a stihl light bar with full comp chain, and had in my mind to run as small as I need which is 25", but a poster in another of my threads mentioned just going to 28". 25 will cover me, and may just require a few extra cuts for big wood, but not too often. For now this will be my only saw, and may pick up a 261 if I cross a deal on one for the small needs...

So am I right in going with a 25, or would I be happier 28? I know it's a relative question, but I sure appreciate the comments!

A 20" would cut all the way through most wood where I live - and it even don't need to, I just feel uncomfortable with that long obstacle in front of there...

 

[computeruser]

I’ll be the contrarian here. I’d go with 18/20” for most uses and keep a 28/32” in reserve for those instances when it is actually needed. I would much rather have a 20” bar buried, or have to overbuck or plunge when falling, than have a bunch of excess bar hanging out the other side of my cuts.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

20" and 28" on a 70cc saw for me.

 

[Jhenderson]

In my opinion, running more bar than is required is a rookie mistake. Heavier, more expensive, more teeth to file, poor balance, harder to transport in the machine. I regularly cut 36 inch dbh wood with a 20 inch bar. That includes bucking the logs for the forwarder.

 

[nch209]

Thanks for all the info folks!!!

 

[thomasinvancouver]

I use a 25” full comp on my 362. Also have a 20” and 28”. I don’t have to reach with the 25, but it’s a stretch to bury it.

 

[nch209]

Settled on a 25 light from our Greek forum power seller. Cheaper and faster than local dealer and half a world away. Amazing!

 

[buttercup]

I use a 25” full comp on my 362. Also have a 20” and 28”. I don’t have to reach with the 25, but it’s a stretch to bury it.

A 362 with a 18" would be perfect for hard work in my neck of the woods.

 

[TheTone]

Catbuster's repeated emphasis on posture is good advice. Bending over forward causes a great deal of wear on your back, especially if you are under load. Try to keep the normal lumbar curve as much as possible. This means flexing your legs (squatting) instead of bending your back. We all know to do this when lifting heavy weights, but it is also a good idea in general. (I'm two years post-op for L4-L5 spinal stenosis.)

 

[jltrent]

As others have said get a 25"...why buy a saw that size to throw a short bar on if you really did need it. Once you get use to it a 25" is not that heavy or awkward and you don't have to bend to the ground as far.