Because the 7 pin will be able to keep the rpms up and will be cutting to the potential of the chain at a that rpm, meanwhile the 11 pin saw will have to be feathered to keep at that rpm which means it will not be cutting to the chains full potential.
There's a point when all the fancy dancing around and numbers comes to a stop, in this case it's when the chain hits the wood with an 11 pin.
+1
It might be helpful to think about this like propping a boat. When choosing the pitch of a wheel, you want to maximize engine speed where you expect your load to be highest. For most boats, that means estimating top speed, then choosing the prop pitch that will allow your engine to reach top rpms, which is where your power will normally peak, at the top estimated over-the-ground speed.
If you choose a wheel with too much pitch (like choosing a sprocket that's too large), the boat (THEORETICALLY) will go super fast. But if it can't even climb up over its bow wave because there's too much load for the engine to overcome at low rpms, it'll never even get up on plane.
On the other hand, if you're towing skiers or pushing a barge, and you don't expect to ever want to go much over 15 kts, you choose a wheel with very little pitch ... it won't go real fast, but it also won't slip a whole lot, either.
So let's say somebody puts a 22-tooth sprocket onto an MS 150. Theoretically, it'll cut like the hammers of hell. And if you can find a chain that has only one or two tiny cutters on it, it might be able to keep the engine screaming.
But it ain't gonna do a whole lot of cutting real fast.
One other thing worth mentioning is the issue of drag. On boats, this is a huge issue, but it's also going to apply to chainsaws to some degree. Drag increases with the square of the speed. So if you double your boat (or chain) speed, your drag will increase fourfold (2²). But if you
triple your boat (or chain) speed, your drag will increase NINEfold (3²). And it goes uphill from there...