Wow. Wj
Oh, we're still around. Some of us just know when we're pissin' up a rope.
...who evidently hadn't read any of the thread before posting.
And aren't you an old hat at the MS661C-M ignition system all of a sudden. LOL
To convert to the latest/greatest v3.0 M-Tron setup, yes..., but not necessarily mandatory if the saw is out of warranty and all it needs is a $40 black solenoid or a new plug wire.
Sooo..., your post is a bit ambiguous regarding where you actually are with all this..., aside from indicating your newly acquired enlightenment.
You are now "free to make this saw run" while "still wondering why no spark thus far into the work". What work, exactly? Did you replace all the components included with the v3.0 upgrade kit? Did the new coil also include a new high tension lead? Did you replace the entire ignition harness (or test the old one as good)?
If you did all of the above and still have no spark, you most likely have a problem at the kill switch causing a constant short to ground even though the kill position is supposed to only be a momentary contact. If so, I'll guess the original coil is still good as is the solenoid and the fuel filter, and the upgrade kit was not required to correct the "no spark" problem in the first place. And if the old plug lead looked anything like the one in the pic I posted (as you indicated it did), you still had spark. It just wasn't reaching the plug due to a dead short to the case. And if you indeed re-used that plug wire with the new coil thinking it was still usable, you would likely experience the same exact symptom.
You also indicated "more coming later". How about a detailed list of everything you've done thus far -- everything.
If you still have no spark with a brand new coil, you have a dead short to ground or have damaged the wiring harness -- or both. Get your multi-meter out and start looking for it, beginning with testing from the plug boot to ground. Then follow the procedure in the shop manual for testing the harness.
And if you still haven't figured it out by your next post, I gave it my best shot to help you. My effort here has concluded. Good luck.
But one last tip: If you suspect arcing to the case somewhere, pull the starter and use a drill (in reverse) to spin the flywheel while grounding the plug to the case or cylinder..., in the dark. If you're simply using a spark tester to check for spark you'd be missing that problem entirely.
Wow, wheres the humbility now? HaHA! I'm free to make the saw run is clearly, I have been busy with lifes more important matters, and now have time to work on it.
Since the last post, I got the kit, which you already knew. Something about how the dealer had been fair with the price. It was the wiser move over just a coil......and the kit is considered the be all/end all M-Tronic up-grade. So said the counter-guy.
Anyway, after installing the 4704 coil, I tested for spark with a std. tester, and the recoil. Than, I plugged in the connector, and got the same results. Now I knew it wasn't that simple, the other components were definitely a part of the ignition, and coil was the latest and best to have.
Pulled the carb, and installed the white solenoid, again because it is referenced everywhere, as the latest improved version. Regardless, the solenoid was required, if I needed a new coil anyway. The orange fuel filter came with as well.
While the carb was out of the way, each wire was tested for resistance. Each is intact, and visually fine.
The microswitch. The service info. states, test from the red to the black and look for 10 ohms. Thats from the solenoid plug, to the side plug. ? Those 2 wires (red/black) are both fine with zero resistance from the test terminals, THRU the solenoid connector, and all the way to the terminals ((spade & eyelet). Cross them to test? was a mystery. Page 65-66.
When testing from the solenoid connector, to the test connector, and red to red or blk to blk, these connections are perfect. So, I have to imagine, that by crossing the test probes, and looking for a slight level of resistance, thats how to test that mirco-switch?? In several places, the testing is defined as hearing an audible click. Thats the mechanical part of the deal.....so maybe, this switch is bad as well?
Its the only part of the entire system left. As to the fuel system, unless testing for spark, requires fuel in the system, the switch is next. The tank was drained and cleaned...and is empty.
Oh yes, and back to your maybe its this stuff.........the kill switch wire is perfect end to end. When the stop switch is lifted to position "O", the ring connector makes a solid contact with the kill spring, and disengages correctly. "more on that later" is a common phrase. It means that a person will provide further info. No time-line is inferred, or should be expected. Later could be December. Here's another. Used the original spark plug lead? The up-grade kit is clearly shown in pictures on line. Someone posted them, showing the nice little orange bags, with STIHL part number labels, and than each is displayed, out of the package(s)....the 4704 comes with.
Clearly, you enjoy helping guys, as you have done with me thus far. The entire system, save that micro-switch, is OEM new, all wiring has been under a magnifying glass, and tested, with my multi-meter, VOM, and every wire is solid. If you know something more about this switch, chime back in. Lastily, a drill, in reverse? Thats my right arm................Thanks Poge!!
Stay Safe, Stay Home, Capt. B. Bart
