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So I bought a 661 that ended up needing a whole new crankshaft bottom end rod bearing was shot from straight gassed I’m assuming. I’ll include a pic of the piston maybe someone else knows what may have happened by going off the pics. Replacing with all oem parts on the lower including seals. Top end is meteor cylinder and piston. New oem clutch springs as well. By the time I’m done with it I’ll have over 1000 in it. I was hoping it was going to be a quick fix As I knew the crank seals were bad and was hoping that’s what caused the top end failure, but I’ll end up taking a big hit on this one. Stihl dealer is rebuilding the bottom end I will do the top. Crankshaft alone is 300. I know I can’t get 1000 out of it but whats a good price for it? If anyone is interested shoot me an offer I may even except trades. Also if the price is right I can include a like new stihl 32” b/c. I do not currently have a ton of pictures as it’s in the shop right now, I’ll get more when it gets finished. Parts were hoping to be in early next week so maybe it will be done by the end of next week.
 

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I would think a completely rebuilt saw with a quality aftermarket top would be more than 500 but maybe I’m wrong.
I have sold 14 saws over the last 10 days and I have a super nice 372 oe with new oem p/c,bearings,seals. It has a/m tank,clutch cover and because of this most people turn from it because not all oem. You are probably correct. If I buy a big saw and I pay more than $500 I want it to be all oem was what I meant. I always go oem on the motor.
 
Dang Gary selling that many saws, must be in the binge and purge cycle. Yo Schmitty, I did the same with a 661 with a blown bottom end, two loose intake boot 0-rings is what i had suspected to be the main cultprit of running lean, but the main crank bearing grenaded and shot some needle bearings up into the top of the cylinder,leaving those same marks, i replaced the piston and cut the squish band by hand (and then base of cylinder too with gasket delete), replaced the crank, did it all myself and was into it about 850 after having got oem parts on the cheap and doing it all myself though i did put in the upgraded solenoid and upgraded smooth intake boot sans o-rings since mine was a 2013. Timing advance, about 8-10 tanks and she is an absolute beast, sold to a friend for cheap and got a 462 but really miss the 661 now, it was an animal for sure, close to my 394xp. I suggest you finish and just keep and run the saw since you may lose 300-400 selling.
 
Dang Gary selling that many saws, must be in the binge and purge cycle. Yo Schmitty, I did the same with a 661 with a blown bottom end, two loose intake boot 0-rings is what i had suspected to be the main cultprit of running lean, but the main crank bearing grenaded and shot some needle bearings up into the top of the cylinder,leaving those same marks, i replaced the piston and cut the squish band by hand (and then base of cylinder too with gasket delete), replaced the crank, did it all myself and was into it about 850 after having got oem parts on the cheap and doing it all myself though i did put in the upgraded solenoid and upgraded smooth intake boot sans o-rings since mine was a 2013. Timing advance, about 8-10 tanks and she is an absolute beast, sold to a friend for cheap and got a 462 but really miss the 661 now, it was an animal for sure, close to my 394xp. I suggest you finish and just keep and run the saw since you may lose 300-400 selling.
That’s where I’m at most likely going to keep even if it has the meteor top.
 
That’s where I’m at most likely going to keep even if it has the meteor top.
I agree with Gary on buying a big saw and paying top dollar and not full OEM.When I see older vintage saws for sale,288's,262's etc. that are clean my interest peaks until I see aftermarket parts. If I was keeping the saw meteor would be an option I could live with.
 
Dang Gary selling that many saws, must be in the binge and purge cycle. Yo Schmitty, I did the same with a 661 with a blown bottom end, two loose intake boot 0-rings is what i had suspected to be the main cultprit of running lean, but the main crank bearing grenaded and shot some needle bearings up into the top of the cylinder,leaving those same marks, i replaced the piston and cut the squish band by hand (and then base of cylinder too with gasket delete), replaced the crank, did it all myself and was into it about 850 after having got oem parts on the cheap and doing it all myself though i did put in the upgraded solenoid and upgraded smooth intake boot sans o-rings since mine was a 2013. Timing advance, about 8-10 tanks and she is an absolute beast, sold to a friend for cheap and got a 462 but really miss the 661 now, it was an animal for sure, close to my 394xp. I suggest you finish and just keep and run the saw since you may lose 300-400 selling.
Lol! Yes Derrick. Needed to get rid of a few. Had a local tree service bought 7 at one time.
 
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