Ms880 repair

[MFV]

Does this look like correct placement of the circlip

 

[SteveSr]

Does this look like correct placement of the circlip

No! AM circlip (and piston) , I presume? Cut the ear off the clip and install the clip with the gap facing the top of the piston. You don't want any more mass on the clip than absolutely necessary that would cause it to spring out. That will increase the odds of it staying in place.

 

[MFV]

No! AM circlip (and piston) , I presume? Cut the ear off the clip and install the clip with the gap facing the top of the piston. You don't want any more mass on the clip than absolutely necessary that would cause it to spring out. That will increase the odds of it staying in place.

Thanks that’s what I was wondering the piston is from duke’s saw salvage and I have a used still cylinder

 

[drf255]

See if your old OEM clips will fit in the groove of your AM piston. Sometimes the grooves are too deep.

I realize not everyone can afford OEM parts, but an OEM pin bearing and circlips are a must, with the exception of Meteor/caber products.

I don’t get why everyone gets hung up on eared circlips. As long as they are Oem they are fine. Most Husky’s use them without issues, and they are necessary because their pin bores aren’t notched (like a Stihl) to remove the clip. The correct orientation for the ear is vertical.

 

[SteveSr]

I don’t get why everyone gets hung up on eared circlips. As long as they are Oem they are fine. Most Husky’s use them without issues, and they are necessary because their pin bores aren’t notched (like a Stihl) to remove the clip. The correct orientation for the ear is vertical.

The issue with ears is a simple matter of physics. The ears add considerable mass to the end of a spring (the clip). As the piston (and clip) accelerates and decelerates up and down this added mass can deform the spring (clip) sufficiently to cause it to jump out of its groove. This is likely why Stihl's clips are earless. However, even without ears Stihl still recommends that the opening in the clip face either up or down. This puts the clip in a position such that it can't compress due to working forces.

 

[CausticUC]

It is cheaper to manufacture them without the ears. Wiseco pistons also all have circlips with ears.

 

[MFV]

It is cheaper to manufacture them without the ears. Wiseco pistons also all have circlips with ears.

The issue with ears is a simple matter of physics. The ears add considerable mass to the end of a spring (the clip). As the piston (and clip) accelerates and decelerates up and down this added mass can deform the spring (clip) sufficiently to cause it to jump out of its groove. This is likely why Stihl's clips are earless. However, even without ears Stihl still recommends that the opening in the clip face either up or down. This puts the clip in a position such that it can't compress due to working forces.

Makes sense I cut these off. I am heading out now for Christmas shopping and to find a ring compressor and pressure gauge to figure out why this saw keeps burning up

 

[SteveSr]

Makes sense I cut these off. I am heading out now for Christmas shopping and to find a ring compressor and pressure gauge to figure out why this saw keeps burning up

Roached top ends are usually due to overheating caused by a lean running condition. The lean running condition can be cause by an air leak or a fuel delivery/carb issue. It can also be caused by using old/bad gas.

BTW, are you sure that you have removed (not just polished) ALL of the aluminum transfer in the jug? How about put up some good photos of the inside of the jug.

 

[MFV]

Roached top ends are usually due to overheating caused by a lean running condition. The lean running condition can be cause by an air leak or a fuel delivery/carb issue. It can also be caused by using old/bad gas.

BTW, are you sure that you have removed (not just polished) ALL of the aluminum transfer in the jug? How about put up some good photos of the inside of the jug.

I will I am out. Right now but I appreciate all the help I can get. I know the fuel was good 32/1 mixed myself

 

[MFV]

See if your old OEM clips will fit in the groove of your AM piston. Sometimes the grooves are too deep.

I realize not everyone can afford OEM parts, but an OEM pin bearing and circlips are a must, with the exception of Meteor/caber products.

I don’t get why everyone gets hung up on eared circlips. As long as they are Oem they are fine. Most Husky’s use them without issues, and they are necessary because their pin bores aren’t notched (like a Stihl) to remove the clip. The correct orientation for the ear is vertical.

And I did get a new oem bearing

 

[MFV]

Did not know husqvarna made these

 

[MFV]

Did not know husqvarna made these

These things go up to 16000 dollars

 

[CausticUC]

If I recall, husky/viking made sewing machines before chainsaws .

http://ismacs.net/husqvarna-viking/brief-husqvarna-viking-history.html

 

[SteveSr]

I know the fuel was good 32/1 mixed myself

So was the saw correctly tuned for 32:1 mix? If the saw was tuned for 50:1 that may be a part of your problem. More oil = less gas --> leaner mixture!

 

[MFV]

So was the saw correctly tuned for 32:1 mix? If the saw was tuned for 50:1 that may be a part of your problem. More oil = less gas --> leaner mixture!

Could be I had it repaired at a shop they told me run it at 32/1 but it obviously wasn’t right it didn’t last a month

 

[MFV]

The issue with ears is a simple matter of physics. The ears add considerable mass to the end of a spring (the clip). As the piston (and clip) accelerates and decelerates up and down this added mass can deform the spring (clip) sufficiently to cause it to jump out of its groove. This is likely why Stihl's clips are earless. However, even without ears Stihl still recommends that the opening in the clip face either up or down. This puts the clip in a position such that it can't compress due to working forces.

Makes perfect sense I didn’t think of it that way

 

[MFV]

This is what my cylinder looks like

 

[SteveSr]

This is what my cylinder looks like

We really need to see the cylinder walls on the intake and exhaust sides. These are in shadow and can't really see anything. A flash or flashlight would help along with a better angle.

BTW, what did you use to clean off the aluminum transfer?

 

[MFV]

I didn’t clean it got so hot it cracked the strip of metal on the side. I was milling when it happened pushing it hard

 

[MFV]

Got it used from a member here