Mtronic idle adjustment

[Andrew Cunningham]

Hi there im wondering why nobody has noted the idle adjust screw on the ms201t with mtronics if you have problems with your mtronic not wanting to idle or start and the factory default reset does not help take the carb off and remove the throttle sensor and there is a small block where the throttle rest is and there is a small set screw in there you will need a t8 torx driver to adjust it

 

[stihl86]

Idle speed is set by the control module and fuel solenoid.
You're treating a symptom, not the cause. There is no throttle sensor on the saw.
That's the fuel solenoid, and should never be re-installed.
Modifying the idle speed wont help a starting problem.
And could create more problems .
Starting is controlled by the upper handle linkage, along with the starting
switch on the choke shaft. That tells the module the saw is in start mod.
The memory circuit can help, but not entirely, in case
the saw is restarted in the start position, when hot.
An Mtronic can and will flood due to operator error.

You, most likely, had a leaking fuel solenoid.
Replace that before you start re-engineering the fuel system.
Saw will be hard to start after. Get it started and let it run to
purge air in system. Shut it off, wait 5 min, then do the reset.
Run on start for 45 - 60 sec. Shut off immediately. Then make five
heavy load cuts. Info in instruction manual is for a change in altitude

 

[Wood Doctor]

One of the local Stihl dealers said two of his mechanics quit when the Mtronics started to show up. They just plain hated working on them and found another way to earn a living. I've worked on several and I have to admit that they are not a lot of fun. When I eventually get them running right, I breathe a sigh of relief.

 

[stihl86]

Progress cant be stopped. Things that don't evolve, disappear.
Like those two "mechanics" Sounds like the dealer is better off
without them.
People are scared chitless of things they don't understand.
Always were, are, and always will be.
The system only has parts. Control module, harness and carb.
Yes a carb. But as soon as there's a problem with the saw, it
must be the thing that's misunderstood the most.
Humans. How have we lasted this long.

 

[Andrew Cunningham]

Idle speed is set by the control module and fuel solenoid.
You're treating a symptom, not the cause. There is no throttle sensor on the saw.
That's the fuel solenoid, and should never be re-installed.
Modifying the idle speed wont help a starting problem.
And could create more problems .
Starting is controlled by the upper handle linkage, along with the starting
switch on the choke shaft. That tells the module the saw is in start mod.
The memory circuit can help, but not entirely, in case
the saw is restarted in the start position, when hot.
An Mtronic can and will flood due to operator error.

You, most likely, had a leaking fuel solenoid.
Replace that before you start re-engineering the fuel system.
Saw will be hard to start after. Get it started and let it run to
purge air in system. Shut it off, wait 5 min, then do the reset.
Run on start for 45 - 60 sec. Shut off immediately. Then make five
heavy load cuts. Info in instruction manual is for a change in altitude

You must not know to much about it cuz its fixed now and runs fine and yes there is a throttle sensor u want the part number look it up 1145 430 1001 trigger unit is its name but it triggers something when you turn on the choke and did you ever happen to think that from factory that screw wasnt in far enuff which is prob the case on alot your stupid run for blah blah seconds didnt ever work especially when the thing wouldnt idle two secs let alone 60 i did blow out the solenoid as well and soon as i fired it up idle was high and slowly lowered itself so before you think you know it all you dont i treated the problem which was it wouldnt idle its worth the try before you go spending money on parts i have a solenoid coming incase it fails later but its not now

 

[Andrew Cunningham]

Idle speed is set by the control module and fuel solenoid.
You're treating a symptom, not the cause. There is no throttle sensor on the saw.
That's the fuel solenoid, and should never be re-installed.
Modifying the idle speed wont help a starting problem.
And could create more problems .
Starting is controlled by the upper handle linkage, along with the starting
switch on the choke shaft. That tells the module the saw is in start mod.
The memory circuit can help, but not entirely, in case
the saw is restarted in the start position, when hot.
An Mtronic can and will flood due to operator error.

You, most likely, had a leaking fuel solenoid.
Replace that before you start re-engineering the fuel system.
Saw will be hard to start after. Get it started and let it run to
purge air in system. Shut it off, wait 5 min, then do the reset.
Run on start for 45 - 60 sec. Shut off immediately. Then make five
heavy load cuts. Info in instruction manual is for a change in altitude

And yes it fires rught up now first pull two pulls cold so hmmm think about that

 

[Ketchup]

So what other purpose is there for the t8 screw? Looks like an idle adjust to me...

How far did you turn it?

 

[stihl86]

You must not know to much about it cuz its fixed now and runs fine and yes there is a throttle sensor u want the part number look it up 1145 430 1001 trigger unit is its name but it triggers something when you turn on the choke and did you ever happen to think that from factory that screw wasnt in far enuff which is prob the case on alot your stupid run for blah blah seconds didnt ever work especially when the thing wouldnt idle two secs let alone 60 i did blow out the solenoid as well and soon as i fired it up idle was high and slowly lowered itself so before you think you know it all you dont i treated the problem which was it wouldnt idle its worth the try before you go spending money on parts i have a solenoid coming incase it fails later but its not now

That might be the longest sentence I've ever read. Just from the spelling and the punctuation of your post I can see you are on a different intellectual level than I.
Best to end this now. You are right. I am wrong.

 

[stihl86]

So what other purpose is there for the t8 screw? Looks like an idle adjust to me...

How far did you turn it?

It is. On a conventional carb. That screw, on a CM is set at the factory and is used to fill the hole that is machined for a idle speed screw. The ones that use a spring.
Doesn't it seem odd you have to remove the solenoid to move it? From what I've been told the O-rings on the solenoid are extremely fragile. That's why they shouldn't be reused.
Idle problems on a MS201TCM, as long as the cylinder is intact, and no air leaks, replace the solenoid. A dealer can cover it for 2 years under the emissions warranty.

You try to help and there's always some cheese dic trying to one up you.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Lots of guys have remedied their idling/starting issues on M-trons by minor adjustment of that screw where applicable.

And most dealers are absolutely clueless when it comes to the M-trons.

Now we're done.

 

[Andrew Cunningham]

I turned it one full turn and it fixed every problem i was having down to the starting issue where i had to hold the throttle open a tiny bit when starting i had to remove the trigger unit its called not throttle sensor. You have to remove that to get to that tiny screw. Im not sure if it was a t8 or a allen wrench hole but my t8 worked fine. I seriously think from factory mine was on the verge of being a prob and then vibrated down a tiny bit causing me problems. I only made a thread because it seems nobody has said anything about it directly and wouldve made life alot easier knowing there was a manual adjustment for the idle. Im not sure how moving that is reengineering a fuel system but to each there own. I just wanna help the guys out there that dont have the money to take it to a dealer and throw money at it.

 

[Andrew Cunningham]

It is. On a conventional carb. That screw, on a CM is set at the factory and is used to fill the hole that is machined for a idle speed screw. The ones that use a spring.
Doesn't it seem odd you have to remove the solenoid to move it? From what I've been told the O-rings on the solenoid are extremely fragile. That's why they shouldn't be reused.
Idle problems on a MS201TCM, as long as the cylinder is intact, and no air leaks, replace the solenoid. A dealer can cover it for 2 years under the emissions warranty.

You try to help and there's always some cheese dic trying to one up you.

Well when you try to act like your better than everyone it bothers some people. That screw opens the throttle blade just as it would on any carb. You must have that open enough to start or idle. Do you even know how a carb works because it sounds like you dont. And what if i had it more than 2 yrs or bought it used cheese **** use your ****ing brain not everyone has the money to go take it to a dealer and not have the saw while they screw you and all that was needed was a screw needed turned one turn you ****ing ****

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Ok. NOW we're done! LOL

 

[farmer steve]

Ok. NOW we're done! LOL

 

[full chizel]

 

[KodiakForge]

Progress cant be stopped. Things that don't evolve, disappear.
Like those two "mechanics" Sounds like the dealer is better off
without them.
People are scared chitless of things they don't understand.
Always were, are, and always will be.
The system only has parts. Control module, harness and carb.
Yes a carb. But as soon as there's a problem with the saw, it
must be the thing that's misunderstood the most.
Humans. How have we lasted this long.

So what does one do when trying to recalibrate a saw that simply won’t stay running or idle in the start/choke/triangle position for more than a few seconds but will start in The run position with trigger pinned and once warmed also won’t cut worth a **** in a 6 inch price of wood? Saw is only months old. Used all stihls oil and whatnot as for warranty purposes? I’ve read countless comments many yours about just putting in in start/triangle mode and let idle for 30-90 seconds but what does one do when it won’t? How does it get calibrated then? Ives never had a single issue with any non mtronic saw and I’m sure the story goes for many others which is why people talk shot about them. I’d love to hear a response from you that will actually help this situation since you like to **** talk those who hate mtronic. I’ve pulled cylinder and P&C both look good. I have only used ethanol free fuel and 40:1 mix saw idles fine once warmed up in run position but won’t cut ****. It bogs down when you blip the trigger and won’t start and idle in start position. Prove us mtronic haters wrong. Tell me what I don’t understand.

 

[KodiakForge]

Well when you try to act like your better than everyone it bothers some people. That screw opens the throttle blade just as it would on any carb. You must have that open enough to start or idle. Do you even know how a carb works because it sounds like you dont. And what if i had it more than 2 yrs or bought it used cheese **** use your ****ing brain not everyone has the money to go take it to a dealer and not have the saw while they screw you and all that was needed was a screw needed turned one turn you ****ing ****

The only one with cheese on their **** is stihl86 from all that back patting he gives himself. Tootin his own horn so loud he has forgotten there are people who don’t need the brownie scout badge from stihl to feel superior over others. I have been having the same issue and your posts have actually helped and tomorrow I’m going to tear my saw back down and adjust that screws and see what happens as the whole idle in start mode crap doesn’t work. So thanks for sharing some knowledge and **** stihl86 and all his horn blowin I’ve stumbled on a bunch of his posts all over the boards and clearly he has some insecurity issues real men just don’t have. Which is why he’s always trying to prove (mostly to himself) just how intellectual he is

 

[Ketchup]

If your saw is only a few months old, it’s possible you dealer will help you out. The idle adjustment screw might help you start your saw, but if it still runs like a dog you probably have a bad solenoid.

 

[farmer steve]

If your saw is only a few months old, it’s possible you dealer will help you out. The idle adjustment screw might help you start your saw, but if it still runs like a dog you probably have a bad solenoid.

Agreed. If I had a new saw that wouldn't cut a 6" piece of of wood I'd be right back at my dealer. I sure as hell wouldn't tear down a new saw and void the warranty. Yes sh!t happens and a bad new saw is out there.

 

[KodiakForge]

Well i have brought it back 2 times but I was treated like complete **** over the phone and in person about it. I Was told it wasn’t covered under warranty and I would have to pay out of pocket for all repairs and it was likely going to cost a few hundred dollars. When I declined that the guy was pretty rude to me claiming I’m using ****** has, letting it idle too long and not mixing fuel right, non of which I am doing. When I told him that he said “here we go, another know it all user, go climb a tree dude!” I asked him how he knew such things having only looked at the saw but not opened it up. he had only looked up serial and saw I was out of warranty and called me to inform me it would cost me money.
I tried brining it back and talking to someone else a different day and was told same thing, that is isn’t under warranty, so I brought it to another stihl dealer who I did not buy saw from and they said same warranty thing. Each time, when I asked about stihl covering emissions stuff for 2yrs as it says in the owners manual and has been said on here, I was told the same mantra that it wasn’t covered under warranty. So at this point I’m working on it myself and considering calling stihl at a higher up level and seeing what’s what. But I’ve had completely garbage service all the way around. Seems they just blame the user for anything that goes wrong as if these are made of gold. Not to mention they want to keep it in the shop for weeks while working on it and I can’t wait that long just to be told it’s not covered under warranty, it’s going to cost me, and then give an armchair diagnosis blaming me without doing any work.