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My custom Echo small wood and limbing saw project

buttercup

buttercup

Gone fishing
Joined
Aug 8, 2019
Messages
2,166
Location
Osterøy, Norway
So I have a 360 top handle and a 361 rear handle, I first bought the top handle saw but it was too big and heavy for my intended use.
I have later bought a smaller 280 top handle that suits my needs, but I regretted that I didn't buy the rear handle version 360 because that would be a perfect couple.

So when the discount was good I bought the 361 rear handle, and it surely is a good quality saw for it's class but there was a couple of things I liked better about my 360 top handle.
Now I will attempt to put the rear handle from the 361 on to the 360 and that is not without problems because though they seem almost identical there are small changes all over.
I have looked at it quite thoroughly and I'm quite sure it's possible to adapt the rear handle with some modifications, but the front handle/bar I will need to modify or completely remake so that will be the biggest challenge.
I'm not sure it will be possible to make the 361 in to a top handle with the parts I have but I will likely try to do that later, otherwise only one of the saws will come out of this alive.
RIMG0037.JPG

Here is what I liked better about my 360 top handle compared to the 361 rear handle;

The bar studs on the 360T is standard 8mm, on the 361W they are 8mm studs but with 6mm threads and nuts
- which is kinda silly because I'm always using two saws and will need a separate "special" wrench tool.
RIMG0045.JPG

The 360T has metal inlays in the plastic and uses metal/machine thread screws at critical places.
RIMG0048.JPG RIMG0049.JPG RIMG0050.JPG

The 360T has a two point hinged chain brake handle.
RIMG0058.JPG

And finally, the 360T have a bigger carburetor; about 13,5mm compared to the 361W at about 12mm.
RIMG0056.JPG
 
buttercup

buttercup

Gone fishing
Joined
Aug 8, 2019
Messages
2,166
Location
Osterøy, Norway
I have started to modify the 361W rear handle to fit the 360T.
If I suddenly stop posting in this thread you know I have messed up two perfectly good almost brand new chainsaws :dizzy:

I had to remove a small piece of the climbing attachment, not sure what its for but I cant imagine its anything critical.
You can see how it was in the second picture up to the right corner;
RIMG0059.JPG RIMG0046.JPG

This is the rear left AV mount on the rear handle and you can see I have grinded away some material;
RIMG0062.JPG

Some curved shapes needed for the brake handle hinge point and the top lid of the 360T;
RIMG0066.JPG

Just removed some unnecessary material here;
RIMG0067.JPG RIMG0068.JPG

This is the brake handle hinge point removal from the underside of the rear handle;
RIMG0069.JPG
 
buttercup

buttercup

Gone fishing
Joined
Aug 8, 2019
Messages
2,166
Location
Osterøy, Norway
They are wired a little differently;
RIMG0070.JPG

I have used the carb.intake, impulse tube, air duct from the flywheel and ground wire from the 361W.
I also needed to grind away a small area for the tubes at the top cover;
RIMG0074.JPG RIMG0075.JPG

Getting all the rubber in place at the rear handle needed "a lot" of patience;
RIMG0077.JPG RIMG0078.JPG RIMG0079.JPG
 
buttercup

buttercup

Gone fishing
Joined
Aug 8, 2019
Messages
2,166
Location
Osterøy, Norway
The carburetor fuel return(?) needs to have a different angle for the 360T carb to fit in the 361W rear handle.
I just used a wrench and positioned it gently in the right direction;
RIMG0090.JPG RIMG0091.JPG

The fuel hose needs to be elongated a bit, I used a piece of steel tube and some of the fuel hose from the other saw;
RIMG0092.JPG

I have used the coil wire to the stop switch from the 360T, but the socket at the switch needs to be the one from the 361W;
RIMG0096.JPG

Its important not to over tighten the carb bolts, the air filter manifold will start to bend when it's too much.
The rest is a breeze, the carb assembly is ready;
RIMG0098.JPG RIMG0102.JPG RIMG0103.JPG

Now the challenging part remains: making a new front handle/bar;
RIMG0108.JPG RIMG0109.JPG
 
buttercup

buttercup

Gone fishing
Joined
Aug 8, 2019
Messages
2,166
Location
Osterøy, Norway
I have used high density foam to make the core of the front handle, its just glued on to the original 360/361 front handle left/right mount pieces with 5 min epoxy;
RIMG0123.JPG RIMG0131.JPG RIMG0133.JPG

Its easiest to shape it as a square profile, it needs to be as low as possible and as forwards as possible for the chain brake to be in reach;
RIMG0006.JPG RIMG0007.JPG RIMG0009.JPG
 
buttercup

buttercup

Gone fishing
Joined
Aug 8, 2019
Messages
2,166
Location
Osterøy, Norway
I have finished the shape of the front handle/bar;
RIMG0013.JPG RIMG0016.JPG RIMG0017.JPG

The carbon fiber hose expands when pushed together and shrinks when stretched;
RIMG0021.JPG RIMG0022.JPG

I use a light mist of spray adhesive to help attach the carbon fiber hose at the ends;
RIMG0025.JPG RIMG0027.JPG

I have cut some pieces of "twill weave" (conforms to complex shapes) "peel ply" (nylon rip off cloth) and bandaged the carbon to make sure its tight after it has been saturated with laminating epoxy.
This is the first of two layers of carbon fiber, tomorrow I'll remove the bandage and we'll see if the skin transplant was successful;
RIMG0029.JPG RIMG0030.JPG
 
buttercup

buttercup

Gone fishing
Joined
Aug 8, 2019
Messages
2,166
Location
Osterøy, Norway
So after all the red wine yesterday and surely plenty of stupid comments here at AS as a result, I woke up just in time to proceed with my project :dumb:

The laminating epoxy is fully cured after 24 hours, after about 12 hours it has become solid but is still kinda soft.
At this time its possible to cut the carbon fiber quite easily with a knife;
RIMG0034.JPG RIMG0035.JPG

Now I have mounted the front handle/bar at the saw so that it is perfectly in shape while the epoxy fully hardens.
Then I have used elastic tape and winded it very tightly two times along the bar/handle back and forth, this makes a quite strong pressure if the carbon fiber is not fully compressed to the bar in some places;
RIMG0036.JPG RIMG0037.JPG

Now I will probably let this be until tomorrow or a couple of days and when it is fully hardened it will be stiff like aluminum.
Then I will sand it, correct some unevenness perhaps use a little spackle even, and apply the second layer of carbon fiber and I might do that using a vacuum bag instead of the peelply strips.
Finally I will sand it lightly and apply a finishing coat of epoxy, I guess it will be ready next weekend perhaps.

After that it will be the muffler at the operating table:chainsaw:
 
buttercup

buttercup

Gone fishing
Joined
Aug 8, 2019
Messages
2,166
Location
Osterøy, Norway
I have started on the muffler, this muffler needs to be split because every part in it is solidly soldered together.
The tubes for the bolts needs to be split too, I used a super thin (1mm) wheel on my angle grinder. And yes, it does hurt when it dissolves at 10k rpm;
RIMG0041.JPG RIMG0043.JPG RIMG0044.JPG

The cat is not really restrictive - it has a much bigger area than the exhaust outlet probably 3 or 4 times bigger - something to consider.
The exhaust outlet in the muffler is pretty decent according to my calculations, its actually about 140% the size of my Husky 45cc 445. The outside baffle might be restrictive however.
There is an additional 5mm diameter hole under the outside baffle to guide the exhaust forwards - drilling a second 5mm hole would make it plenty;
RIMG0046.JPG RIMG0048.JPG RIMG0050.JPG
 
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