My Husky 288 chain brake won't reset

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John Lyngdal

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My 181/288 was a milling saw and the owner cut off the brake pivot off on the clutch cover. I bought one of the Bailey's AM chain brake assemblies to rehab into a wood cutter and was as having a hard time getting new chain brake assembly onto the saw, so I foolishly decided to trip it without it being mounted on the saw. Once tripped, it will not reset. I've pulled on it hard and even though it took quite a bit of force to trip it, I'm pretty sure that something isn't right. I can disassemble it, but was hoping there was an easier fix.

Thanks,

John
 
can't speak for the bailey's am chainbrake fitment,
but to reset you could try Carefully clamping brake body in bench vise.
Some protection of body casting can be had by wrapping a towel around it.
Course the better way is to use an old crank case.
 
That's called the Husky chain brake bear trap. You should never trip a Husky chain brake with the clutch cover removed. Nobody here who owns a Husky likes to talk about it. Because of it, numerous trips to the dealer have been generated. Dealers don't like to talk about it either. As lfnh said, a few dealers even keep parted out Husky saws around to reset the brake. I use the end vise on my woodworkers bench (all hardwood). Squeeze and turn with some muscle and a prayer.

I think Husky should have offered a special tool for sale to deal with it. I've never seen one and the service manuals say nothing about the chain brake bear trap. Oh, and you can get caught in the trap by yanking off the sprocket cover with the chain brake engaged. It's a little tough to do but after that, your caught in the same bear trap.
 
Here's a picture of the unit I have:

View attachment 639048

Assuming I can get it reset, if I trim the long compression spring will it make it easier to trip and reset?

Resetting these even with a vise can be tough.
Couple of pics from 288xp 641xxxx (1996 week 41)
showing clutch fitment with brake in reset position in oem cover.
coil spring in this and 272xp from same year measure 3.33 to 3.37 in relaxed length.

Reducing the length of the knee coil spring would probly interfere with the toggle trip sensitivity and the ability of the attached brake band to 'instantly' arrest the high moving mass of all those cutters.

Here's an old pic of non running static drop test to check chainbrake from a 2 series shop man.

100_2986 (Medium).JPG 100_2985 (Medium).JPG

BrakeTest.jpg
 
Easier to take apart and reset
Page 44-50

https://app.box.com/s/sp6ynymfxfblropar5sxp6qu2jkm5c3e

That piece of Knee joint sticking out below handle is in wrong location
5f5daa821806b46e13a5aa7b04d05601.jpg



Erik
 
That's called the Husky chain brake bear trap. You should never trip a Husky chain brake with the clutch cover removed. Nobody here who owns a Husky likes to talk about it. Because of it, numerous trips to the dealer have been generated. Dealers don't like to talk about it either. As lfnh said, a few dealers even keep parted out Husky saws around to reset the brake. I use the end vise on my woodworkers bench (all hardwood). Squeeze and turn with some muscle and a prayer.

I think Husky should have offered a special tool for sale to deal with it. I've never seen one and the service manuals say nothing about the chain brake bear trap. Oh, and you can get caught in the trap by yanking off the sprocket cover with the chain brake engaged. It's a little tough to do but after that, your caught in the same bear trap.
Husky has a tool
 
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