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My log splitter build

Discussion in 'Firewood, Heating and Wood Burning Equipment' started by 93green12v, Nov 4, 2015.

  1. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    What kind of spacing should it have?
     
  2. GM_Grimmy

    GM_Grimmy Sawfest attendee

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    My ram is 14" long, has 5 bolts per side, about 2.75" spacing.
     
  3. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    I was talking about the spacing where the push plate and I beam meet underneath.
     
  4. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    What's your guys thoughts on boxing in the ends of the I beam? How far is too far? I was planning around 10" a side and box in the end.
     

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  5. Kevin in Ohio

    Kevin in Ohio Addicted to ArboristSite

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    The strainer is mounted BEFORE the pump in the tank. The filter is on the return before it goes back into the tank. You don't want to starve the pump and I've seen people do that by putting the filter on the suction to the pump. The strainer is just a low restriction filter to get the big stuff. Could become a restriction if you had all kinds of junk in there and never cleaned it.

    [​IMG]

    Close up of suction line from tank to pump. Welded on bung and strainers neck it down. Heavy band clamps keep the spiral suction hose in place. Way better than standard auto clamps.

    [​IMG]


    It's a straight. short run to the pump.

    The more steel the better has been my motto in reference to your beam. I use the Box beam slide as I like it better than an I beam. I've never had to repair any I've built. Can't say that for others Ibeams Wear on them is basically non existant but a long slide had tons to do with that.
     
  6. GM_Grimmy

    GM_Grimmy Sawfest attendee

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    Oh, that I don't know. I know it's tight, so the ram doesn't wiggle and feel sloppy (my last one was loose as a goose! and I say a flaw in engineering). I used to know the clearances but it's been awhile since it's been built and I forgot. :(
     
  7. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    I was looking on your build thread before I started mine and that's a pretty sweet setup you made there. Dumb question but with the weld on bungs do you put the bigger side in the tank? I bought my parts from Split-Ez website and I want to clarify which way the bungs go in.
     
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  8. olympyk_999

    olympyk_999 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    the flange goes on the outside...
     
  9. Kevin in Ohio

    Kevin in Ohio Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Like stated above, Non machined surface to the outide.

    [​IMG]

    I had years to come up with my plan of what I wanted to suit how we process wood. Seeing what did and din't work with other splitters is how I came up with what I built. Happy as a lark with it. No bending over working height is the biggest plus anyone can make and it's amazing how better you feel at the end of a full day.

    [​IMG]

    Will enjoy seeing your vision come together.
     
  10. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    These are the bungs I have, I'm gonna say the first pic is how they should be installed in the tank and the back side goest gains the tank. What would you recommend for cutting these holes out? I was planning on using hole saws and if that doesn't pan out I'll use my plasma cutter and free hand them.
     

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  11. GM_Grimmy

    GM_Grimmy Sawfest attendee

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    If it were me I'd use a hole saw, but I've never built anything like that.

    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk 2
     
  12. Kevin in Ohio

    Kevin in Ohio Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Hole saws work fine but MAKE sure you keep plenty of oil on them and don't overheat them. They last a long time if you keep the oil and coolness. If not, you won't even make one hole before it's junk.
     
  13. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    I got the bungs going the right way?
     
  14. muddstopper

    muddstopper Addicted to ArboristSite

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    The first picture is how the bungs go.
     
  15. olympyk_999

    olympyk_999 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    and SLOW speed...
     
  16. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    First one is a 3/4" drain plug, second is 1-1/4" return and last one is a 2" suction. Hole saw was the way to go. I used a step drill bit for the 3/4" bung and what a PITA that was, cheap bit from harbor freight but may have gone too fast and killed it.

    It's coming together just haven't had anytime to work on it been helping a friend build a garage. Hopefully this upcoming week I can clean the tank out, weld the top on, make some brackets for the valves and start to figure out how I want to build a log lift.
     

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  17. olympyk_999

    olympyk_999 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    cantoo... is that a millermatic 200?
     
  18. 93green12v

    93green12v ArboristSite Member

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    Yes it is. It got the machine from a friend and it wouldn't more than strike an arch and wouldn't keep feeding wire. It had a whip for a Lincoln machine not a Miller. Ever since changing it out it has been a great machine.
     
  19. olympyk_999

    olympyk_999 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Yeah I saw yours is a 200...its a mm200 "vintage" isn't it? It's definitely a late model...late 80's early 90's..
    Anyways I was actually talking about cantoo's machine...looks like a black face mm200 with a dual cylinder rack?

    I have a black face 200 with all the options...best mig machine I've ever used...best mig according to alot of others too...
     
  20. olympyk_999

    olympyk_999 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I looked at yours again...looks like a late model black face 200...not a vintage model...
     

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