My new sawmill

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Czech_Made

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Good Morning,

I join this great forum last December, but back than I had nothing to post. I did some alaskan mill miling few years back - killed a chainsaw too, at least I believe the milling killed it. I liked it and got some usable lumber from it, but last year I decided I have to build something that would work better for me.

The sawmill was my project the whole year 2015, it is in usable condition now, but still needs work. The core is an I - beam I got for free and inspiration was Logosol, as you can tell. :)


Anyway, I tested it on some fallen pine.
 

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The log moves up and down on 1 inch ACME threaded rod while 1" tubes slide in and out. This part works great, I was afraid it will need too much force to move, but it lifts with ease and there is no need for locking down.
 

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I am using 24" Husky bar with ripping chain, may go to narrow kerf and 20" some day, not sure.

The aluminum block is milled to a taper to compensate for the imperfectly welded steel part. I think I will rig an arm to hold the end of the bar too, it shakes a bit on the beggining of the cut.
 

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- Originally I used the whole clutch assembly from 372XP, but it would slip when the motor slowed down - now it is just the outside piece welded to a spindle, the goal was to be able to replace the sprocket ring when it wears out.

- Bar is lubed by gravity fed oil, I am afraid it is not enough and most likely will have to get some kind of a oil pump rigged.

- The electrical connection will be replaced completely in a week or two, this is just for testing.

- Also the V belt may need tensioner or maybe use sprockets an chain instead, the future will tell.
 
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Awesome work! About the only thing it seems to be missing is the sweet smell of 2-stroke fumes!

In regards to narrow kerf chain, you might have trouble finding a long bar set up for it. The old roller nose bars that can accept any pitch might be the only option. Personally, I've been migrating the other way to 404, as it seems to hold up better. Having "enough oil" while milling will probably always be a challenge.
 
What size of motor are you using at present and are you happy with it for the wood size/species you are cutting ??
No bearings in your carrage?
Nice mill/idea!

G Vavra
 
As far as I know, narrow kerf bars are 20" or less - it could be enough for most of my work. Still I want to finish the build and use it for some time to gain experience and to know better what it needs.

The motor is 240V 6.5hp from Tractor Supply Company - biggest I could find in the store. The original plan was to use ball bearings, but I used UHMW instead and it seems to be working well.
 
Looks like a great mill to me. The proof is in the wood you're putting out with it.

I like your elevators too. Much nicer than the cable cranks.
 
Thanks :)

Yesterday I worked on the oil delivery. The bar oil delivery hole is milled to 1/4" slot which seemed to be plenty toget the oil to the bar, but did not. The gravity feed in winter is not enough to keep the chain lubed.

Yesterday I rigged quick and dirty solution from some brake tubing and tyvec fuel line and did two cuts in pine - it drips directly between the chain and the bar. When I checked the bar, the cutting edge was oily enough to call it a good start.

The bar is set to cut away from the I beam and I want to lubricate the chain right before it cuts. I still want to add one more oiler on the end of the bar.
 
From someone who owns a logosol farmers m8, congratulations on what you have built!

I use .325 one my logosol. Bought a 24" GB bar and was able to swap the roller tip out to a .325 from 3/8. Works very well (3120xp) and cut is smoother than my band saw mill.
That will be good to see
 
Iron and Bark says:

From someone who owns a logosol farmers m8, congratulations on what you have built!

I use .325 one my logosol. Bought a 24" GB bar and was able to swap the roller tip out to a .325 from 3/8. Works very well (3120xp) and cut is smoother than my band saw mill.



Thank you.

Thats a great idea, I liked the narrow kerf in the Alaskan mill.

I use Husqvarna Rancher I converted to narrow kerf, with 20" bar it cuts really well.
 
Wow, you did a great job on that thing, I love it!
It looks like the lead screws are independent right? If so, would it be of much be benefit to connect them with gears/chain so they work in unison from either wheel? I know you'd lose the ability to (easily) tilt the log if they are tied together, but with a chain drive connecting the jack screws, you could get really silly with a second up/down motor. :rock:
 
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