My splitter build

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I hate to ask but something just doesn't seem right about the way you have it plumbed, is this the valve you have? http://www.surpluscenter.com/Instruct/I9-6587.pdf
if so then you want the power beyond plug in and the out port back to tank. and then once you install the second valve from the power beyond port it too needs a return to tank line. I have no idea if this will help your problem but it could. It's kind of hard to make out in you video.
If you look at kevins valve, he has one short line going to the other set of valves and another line going to return.
good luck,
dave
 
Rebuilding the cylinder is pretty easy. Any local hydraulic shop should be able to provide you with the proper seals once you get it apart.

The first one I did, I took it apart and took the cleaned parts into my local shop and they had the replacement seals on the shelf. The most recent one was an Energy cyl that I was able to source the seals from the manuf. Once you get a look at it, the replacement sequence is pretty straightforward.

As others have said. a look inside will tell you if it's worth it.

As far as plumbing, can't help you with that but as Dave said, maybe a better picture of the way you have it might help diagnose the problem your having.
 
Here is another pic of mine. The return to the filter/tank on the Autocycle valve is the one with the 30 degree bend fitting.Power beyond port is the one with short hose as you said, From the video you posted it looks like you have no dedicated return other than the power beyond port? You need a return from the autocycle even if you have the power beyond port going to something else from what I was told. I have 3 lines going back for returns.

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Here are the 3 lines coming together as I'm using a bypass (square shaped block)
 
More pics.
I think the difference between Kevin's valve and mine is that I did not get the power beyond model. I don't know for sure if I will ever be able to afford a hydraulically adjustable wedge. So my out is also my power beyond. It's labeled OUT BYD
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For the cylinder. I'm wondering if someone has completely bastardized this cylinder at some point. Maybe they shortened a longer 5" with a nose from a smaller cylinder. I don't know why else this would be welded onto the front. I've never seen another like it. The dust wiper/seal will likely come out of the front but then how can a 5" "piston" or whatever the center thing is called, come out of the front of this mess. I will look through the 1" return port for something that releases inside but the piston has to come out to be rebuilt.
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Someone help me!
I don't want to buy a new cylinder but maybe a cylinder shop could cut the front off of this and I could get it all corrected. That should be cheaper than a new 5" cylinder.

New cylinder; This seems to be the best buy. SAE 16 looks like 1" ports. 5x34x3 would be super nice for the return speed. I'll be in Lincoln next month so I wouldn't have to get a freight quote. Still $520!
Surplus Center - 5x34.5x3 DA HYD CYL
 
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I'm guessing you have a HC1 casting Prince valve? They use that casting for several models. I have it on both the valves in the above pics. Again, both my valves are "capable" to be power beyond but I have only the autocycle with the plug. When they are autocycle capable, you remove the cap where it says "OUT BYD" and screw in the bushing. It's a machined bushing with an oring and flat that seats inside the valve. Diverting the fluid so you can have the fluid power beyond. Not what I normally would think of calling a valve, more of a diverter to me.

Can't really see in your pics but you have no out port other than the one labeled "OUT BYD"? I guess I was assuming you did so that is where the confusion came on my part. Was it sold to you as a power beyond capable? I'm learning with this stuff too but I was under the impression you had to have another outgoing port with them. The power beyond port has like a 1" or 1 1/4"pipe thread and yours looks smaller than that.

On your cylinder I'm of no help there. Something looks amiss from the pic. I feel your pain on the cylinder. My Prince Gladiator 5" X 36" was $579.00 from SplitEZ but it is the heart of your machine along with the pump. It should last you your lifetime with a little common sense maintenance.
 
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This is soooo pretty and expensive. It's only rated for 25GPM. Will that be ok for my 28GPM pump?
I can get it for $277 with power beyond for an adjustment cylinder for the 4-way. The small cylinders and single spool low flow valves are pretty cheap.

I'm trying to wrap my head around the hose routing for this thing so that I can order it all at once. I'll keep you all posted.

I thought this was the actual valve you had. It dose have power beyond. As for that cylinder from surplus center, thats the one I put on the last build, & I just used another one today for another splitter For $520.00 you can't beat em. I really like the sae16 ports, they will flow alot of fluid. I know it's hard to bit the bullet, although it is the main part of your splitter. Good luck with what ever you decide.
 
That's my fault,
I ended up getting the auto cycle without the power beyond. I had thought I would get it at first but this thing is really adding up and I don't think I will have another cylinder to adjust the 4-way.

I'm not sure what to do with this just yet. I will get the cylinder off and do some looking around for someone that has one for scrap price (hint, hint) that I can buy or I may end up buying the one listed above when I'm in Lincoln next month to save the 300lb shipping charge!
 
Yeah your cylinder looks like someone made a mess of it. That sucks. Check on CL if you haven't already, there are a bunch listed here local so they do pop up from time to time.
Maybe find a used splitter with a blown motor or pump or check scrap yards, run an add in the wanted section. I did that once for a wood furnace and bought a near new Newmac wood/coal for 200 bucks. The guy just wanted it out of his barn.
good luck,
dave

Looking back at your pic with the tape measure, does your cyl measure 5" overall? If so I would say it's a 4" bore. My 5" bore I just picked up measures 6".
4" are less expensive.
 
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"New" cylinder!!!!

Bringing this back up with great news! Today I brought this beauty home.
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It's a 6x36x3! AWESOME!!!!!
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It's a beautiful thing! I'm so relieved that I didn't have to buy a new one. This one appears to be leaking out the front seal a little bit but it's completely rebuildable if I choose.
Now I need to torch out the old one and get some 1.5" pins and rebuild my butt stop and push plate. No bid deal.
The only slightly disappointing thing is that it has 3/4" ports but that seems to be common. Our tractor is in the shop and the splitter is sitting a long way from the welder so it may take a while to get it mounted but as soon as possible!!!
Super happy day! :blob2::rock:
 
Good news! Where did you end up getting it?

From my neighbor. He had a matching pair off something he scrapped. One was on a splitter he has and this one was just sitting. He wouldn't let me pay him anything. It looks like surplus center has one that looks identical and its a Prince Gladiator cylinder. $978 plus freight. :msp_biggrin:
The rebuild kit is $90. I'm debating rebuilding it just for good measure. I'm sick of redoing things! The speed calculations were 9secs ext and 7 to retract I think. Just under 40 tons of force! :jester:
 
I freaking LOVE this thing!
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I took called our local hydraulic cylinder repair facility and they acted like a-holes and wanted $300+ to replace the seals but they "would have to open it up to know what it needs".
I already knew what they needed, the seal kit part number and what it cost so I will do it MYSELF! Tough economy and they treat customers like dirt. Good luck!

This is all that is to it.
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There are a bunch of seals in there. The hardest part was getting the 3" nut off of the end of the rod. I had to put the 1.5" pin in the rod, then that into a large pipe and parked my car on it to hold it down. We then put a 24" pipe wrench on the nut with a 10' (!) pipe and with some force it came right off. No rust when it's all submerged in oil! :msp_thumbup:
Everything looks good inside. No scoring and I will get a new nylon guide (blue) for the rod and it will be sooooo sweet. No more messing around!
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The seal kit is on back order but it was cheap, $45 shipped! Now I wait again, and cut up some blocks for this monster to consume soon!
 
You may want to consider some support under the end of the cylinder, so all the weight of the cylinder is not resting on the wiper when fully extended. Nice score & glad to see you rebuilding it yourself, really not much to them. looks way better than your old one for sure. Hope this helps.
 
That thing is awesome! Did you check to see if there is an O ring on the inside of the sliding part (top)?
Nothing worse than having to wait for parts.
Yes, I have it all just sitting waiting for the new seals to come in so that I don't screw it up! There is a seal and a wiper (dust seal) to seal the rod end. It didn't have any big tears or anything but this was the one visible spot it was leaking.

You may want to consider some support under the end of the cylinder, so all the weight of the cylinder is not resting on the wiper when fully extended. Nice score & glad to see you rebuilding it yourself, really not much to them. looks way better than your old one for sure. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the input. It's leaps and bounds better than the other junk! Not much to them at all! $300+ to rebuild!?:mad2:
Support: I've really put some thought into this but when I think of all of the applications for a cylinder this big I don't think any provide support for the barrel when fully extended. The bearing ring (blue) keeps the piston centered and keeps the metal of the piston from scraping on the barrel and the opposite end is supported by my push plate. Theoretically the "u cup" is only keeping the weight of the cylinder itself and the oil from sagging in the middle when extended.

I just googled excavators and the main boom cylinder is pretty much horizontal and bigger/lots longer than mine and it's not supported. I don't know what to do. My old one was supported, though I don't know if it needed it.
 
Yes, I have it all just sitting waiting for the new seals to come in so that I don't screw it up! There is a seal and a wiper (dust seal) to seal the rod end. It didn't have any big tears or anything but this was the one visible spot it was leaking.


Thanks for the input. It's leaps and bounds better than the other junk! Not much to them at all! $300+ to rebuild!?:mad2:
Support: I've really put some thought into this but when I think of all of the applications for a cylinder this big I don't think any provide support for the barrel when fully extended. The bearing ring (blue) keeps the piston centered and keeps the metal of the piston from scraping on the barrel and the opposite end is supported by my push plate. Theoretically the "u cup" is only keeping the weight of the cylinder itself and the oil from sagging in the middle when extended.

I just googled excavators and the main boom cylinder is pretty much horizontal and bigger/lots longer than mine and it's not supported. I don't know what to do. My old one was supported, though I don't know if it needed it.

i have the 5 inch prince gladiator cylinder on mine, i also thought about putting a support on it, but then like you thought about all of the other applications where its not supported, also if it is supported, then if your beam flexes or bends, it will pull the rod downward while it extends, and its going to do alot more harm to the seals and rod, than if it were unsupported.
i bought mine new, about $700, id rather trash one or two sets of $80 seals over the life of the splitter, than trash the cylinder...
 
i have the 5 inch prince gladiator cylinder on mine, i also thought about putting a support on it, but then like you thought about all of the other applications where its not supported, also if it is supported, then if your beam flexes or bends, it will pull the rod downward while it extends, and its going to do alot more harm to the seals and rod, than if it were unsupported.
i bought mine new, about $700, id rather trash one or two sets of $80 seals over the life of the splitter, than trash the cylinder...

Thats a good point ! If your pretty sure your beam is going to flex & bend, then I sure would'nt worry about support. After your beam is trash just start over. Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you expected in the first place ! :msp_thumbup:
 
Thats a good point ! If your pretty sure your beam is going to flex & bend, then I sure would'nt worry about support. After your beam is trash just start over. Experience is what you get when you didn't get what you expected in the first place ! :msp_thumbup:

not saying mines flexing or bending, i work pretty closely with a structural engineer where i work, i had him work out the stresses on the beam i was looking at, with the other support i added, and from the cylinder mount to the top of my wedge (14" high) over a 7ft span, @ 200% of rated output of my cylinder, the largest deflection (ends deflecting downward) was only .016", nowhere near enough to concern me.

there was also another reason why i decided against the mount, if your cylinder end mount, and the mount on the sled itsnt exactly the same height, then when the cylinder extends and contracts the height of the cylinder tube will move up and down...
 
This has been dormant too long!
It is working, but I would like to add some features as time goes by. The pump rarely ever goes into high pressure mode. The 6" cylinder has sooo much power to split anything pine, 4-ways, without even slowing down.
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That pile there was two separate instances of splitting and represents 2 hours time. It really runs through the wood.
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I'm pretty happy with the 4-way wedge. It's working and seems to be sturdy. This pic shows how badly I need to build an outfeed table. The wood piles up quickly and it would be really good to send it out farther.
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I still have a LOT of wood to run through this. I'm thinking of hiring someone to split for me. Even if I pay them $25/cord to split I would make $75 a cord at minimum. They wouldn't care about breaking my splitter though. ??

Lastly is the video proof of this monster. By the video it is a 15 second 36" out and back cycle. I'm happy with that. Its not too fast to catch a finger in the wrong place but fast enough that you have to really hustle to keep it full of wood.
<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Ez4nROqiUBU?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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