Need a new splitting axe or mail. Please Advise...

[svk]

Not looking to argue or counter you, but I have a different outcome. I have a x25 and a log splitter along with other random axes or mauls. I swing my x25 alot for stuff I don't put in front of the splitter. 1st I use a splitting block under the splitting round 100 percent of the time. It raises the round so the top is around mid or upper section of my body. I swing in a way that when I hit the round my arms and axe are paralell to the ground. That puts the force directly down through the round. If it was on the ground the force of the swing would be down and toward my feet or legs, bad in my opinion. I also dont like the idea of pounding at a firewood round on the dirt because it pounds dirt on my firewood round. Again not looking to argue with you svk, you are very helpful here as a member and I appreciate reading your posts. I have found a different outcome is all.

Whatever works for you is the best answer you can give! It’s all about personal preference.

I love my X25, but can see where it could be dangerous if you underswing it on a chopping block. My x27 hasn’t been used in two years because I tag team with the X25 and S2800.

 

[Cowboy254]

No need to complicate matters. If the OP is an older gentleman who is not wanting to swing something heavy, go a splitting axe, not a maul. If 6ft or over, go the X27, if under 6ft, consider an X25. Be happy either way. My X27 splits most Aussie stuff I bring home. If I need to inflict blunt force trauma in angry mode on recalcitrant eucalypt, I use the 8lb-er. If I had to choose one, I'd take the X27 and noodle the rest.

 

[LondonNeil]

I agree. My 8lb maul only comes out if the x27 is defeated. The fiskars does the majority of the work. I'm 5'11", split on a low block and use the 27 as it's what I bought, I suspect I'd be equally happy with a 25.

 

[turnkey4099]

Not looking to argue or counter you, but I have a different outcome. I have a x25 and a log splitter along with other random axes or mauls. I swing my x25 alot for stuff I don't put in front of the splitter. 1st I use a splitting block under the splitting round 100 percent of the time. It raises the round so the top is around mid or upper section of my body. I swing in a way that when I hit the round my arms and axe are paralell to the ground. That puts the force directly down through the round. If it was on the ground the force of the swing would be down and toward my feet or legs, bad in my opinion. I also dont like the idea of pounding at a firewood round on the dirt because it pounds dirt on my firewood round. Again not looking to argue with you svk, you are very helpful here as a member and I appreciate reading your posts. I have found a different outcome is all.

I used to split on the ground but changed to block, half of a knotty black locust, about 8". I find that without the block the ground soaks up a good percentage of the force delivered to the round.

I was out splitting manually today. After a long spring/summer 'wooding' I though I was in shape. Nope, could only go for about and hour at time.

 

[rancher2]

My leveaxe is getting stuck in this load of fresh oak halves. I want a new splitting axe or mail. If could buy one splitter, what would you buy?

Sir you need to buy yourself a hyd gasoline powered splitter. I know after two shoulder surgery's I am not swinging any axes or mauls splitting wood. Good luck with which ever you buy.

 

[Mike Burke]

This is the situation at the moment

That looks like fun !!
I was /am in the same situation with a pile of oak rounds and picking a splitting axe. I had been swinging a 6 lb maul and that got old. I searched and asked (Steve) and then picked up a
X27 at fleet farm . I took it home and started splitting. The Fiskars worked Great and was a joy to use. Then I was splitting some smaller rounds and picked up my 4 Lb woodland pro axe and started splitting
with it. It was more accurate and was easier to switch sides in front of my body from hand to hand. I'm 6' with long arms
So............I ordered the X25

I can see using the X27 for the bigger stuff
but then using the X25 for finishing up for the smaller splits...or just using the X25 to split everything.

I don't use a block...I have a platform made of 4x4s that I split on so its like on the ground.

 

[chilly460]

I've been splitting a lot lately, have an X27, a 6lb generic maul, and an 8lb Isocore. If I could have just one, it'd be the Isocore as it's the most effective. I waste more energy swinging the X27 multiple times in tougher rounds than swinging the Isocore once. No doubt though, if it's straight grained or smaller stuff, the X27 comes out as it is easier to use.

 

[Sess21]

I have to thank you Steve and co. This x27 is wayyyyyyy better than the leveraxe. Love it! It doesn't go through weird knots, but much less sticking. I hope my Amazon x27 isn't like some ******** cheaper model

 

[cre73]

X27 and an Isocore great team. Add a tire on a short block and you are readty to go.

 

[alleyyooper]

I bought a Fiskers by the reviews totaly disappointed in it and returned it 24 hours later.

Ended up with the Huscavarna splitting axe. Great tool half the time I don't even stand the blocks up. Just strike them as they lay, but I prefer to do my splitting in the winter other than what I need small enough I can get in the trailer.

Al

 

[Matt93eg]

I mainly split red and white oak. If the tree is real big I will noodle the blocks with a saw.

I used to use a 8# maul. Tried the X27 and haven’t looked back. It does 95% of my splitting . I found if the X27 won’t split it, it’s probably not really worth it and my time is worth more to move on to another block as far as productivity. I only split in the winter and with work I only get Saturday to do it so I need to get as much done as possible.

Fooling around on a stubborn block the X27 won’t split just wastes my time and saps energy.

 

[Multifaceted]

I split everything by hand, 5-6 cords per year and at a leisurely pace. I've been using ONE axe for the past three years and it is all I'll ever need. Didn't have to be this exact one, but the 'winged' German-style splitting axe is very effective, not rediculously heavy, and not to long. Mine happens to be 4.5 lb and 28" long. I'm a tall dude and prefer a shorter handle to get up close and personal. I split on the ground, on a block, but mostly avante garde in a huge pile. Get something that looks like this and you'll be surprised:

 

[svk]

Yep, listen to Steve. I'd take the x27, but I'm 6'2" and split on the ground. I have a 5'9" friend who likes his x25.

Remind me which wood handled splitting axe you had? HB? 32” handle? I really liked that one as well.

 

[Ryan'smilling]

Remind me which wood handled splitting axe you had? HB? 32” handle? I really liked that one as well.

Gransfors Bruks. Something like 31 or 32" and 4.5-5# head. Very nice tool. Absolutely top quality and a pleasure to use. But they're close to $200, so I pretty much recommend the x27 to anyone needing a splitting axe or maul. I do know of at least 2 people who have bought the GB after trying mine. Pricy, but for some of us, worth it.

 

[svk]

Gransfors Bruks. Something like 31 or 32" and 4.5-5# head. Very nice tool. Absolutely top quality and a pleasure to use. But they're close to $200, so I pretty much recommend the x27 to anyone needing a splitting axe or maul. I do know of at least 2 people who have bought the GB after trying mine. Pricy, but for some of us, worth it.

That was honestly the smoothest splitting tool I ever used. Performance on par with the S2800. As you mentioned the price is a deal killer for most but if you wanted one tool or perhaps a very nice gift for a good friend or relative this is the one.

 

[svk]

I split everything by hand, 5-6 cords per year and at a leisurely pace. I've been using ONE axe for the past three years and it is all I'll ever need. Didn't have to be this exact one, but the 'winged' German-style splitting axe is very effective, not rediculously heavy, and not to long. Mine happens to be 4.5 lb and 28" long. I'm a tall dude and prefer a shorter handle to get up close and personal. I split on the ground, on a block, but mostly avante garde in a huge pile. Get something that looks like this and you'll be surprised:

That one looks so nice on a wood handle with the guard. I have one of those on a red plastic handle.

 

[Multifaceted]

That one looks so nice on a wood handle with the guard. I have one of those on a red plastic handle.

I did too, Truper from Lowes. Was a bit too heavy and long. Tried out a friend's Austrian made Stubai splitter, which is similarly designed but on a 28" straight shaft and was sold. Did some research and decided on the Helko Spaltaxt. The rest is history.

 

[Huskitoter]

I used to split on the ground but changed to block, half of a knotty black locust, about 8". I find that without the block the ground soaks up a good percentage of the force delivered to the round.

I was out splitting manually today. After a long spring/summer 'wooding' I though I was in shape. Nope, could only go for about and hour at time.

In the same boat. My training program of watching TV and browsing the Internet isn't cutting it.

Do you guys sharpen the old style mauls? I'm using 6 and 8 lb. Never tried the fisker style. Lighter sounds appealing if they work as well.

 

[svk]

In the same boat. My training program of watching TV and browsing the Internet isn't cutting it.

Do you guys sharpen the old style mauls? I'm using 6 and 8 lb. Never tried the fisker style. Lighter sounds appealing if they work as well.

Yes. A maul doesn’t need to be razor sharp but it’s better to have a decently sharp point than a blunt end.

 

[TRTermite]

In the same boat. My training program of watching TV and browsing the Internet isn't cutting it.

Do you guys sharpen the old style mauls? I'm using 6 and 8 lb. Never tried the fisker style. Lighter sounds appealing if they work as well.

If you sharpen the old splitting malls what angle works on hard wood like oak and hickory etc.?