Need Clarification On "Noodling" & Splitting Da Tuff Stuff!

[StihlRockin']

I learned back a few blue moons ago that when confronting stubborn hard to split rounds, it's better to grab the chainsaw and either cut completely through or part way to establish a split line to make the splitting easier.

Then I hear this term "noodling" and became confused because I was told to cut "across the face", when in actuality I was seeing them cut down the side to the half way point or center of the round.

To me the term "face" is the ends or exposed cut part with the rings showing. That there's only 2 sides of a round of wood, the cut ends and the bark side. Am I correct, that the "face" is as I described?

Then when I noodle, the round is standing up-right with the "face" up and I cut partial the way through so that when I grab the maul and split, the line is established and the hard part is already done.

And from what I've seen others tell me or show me, they cut it when the round is laying on it's side, bark touching the ground and cut to the center. I've seen this way and it does work good. I cut from the top while I've seen others do it from the side.

So, is noodling really defined as cutting from the bark side rather than the end side? And which one is better for you?

I also bring this up because a 14" diameter round that is 20" long is quicker to cut from the end side(14") rather than the entire length.(20")

I love splitting wood when I have the energy left and time. Nothing like it to "relax". LOL! Would love to hear y'all's thoughts on what you do and to clarify what I asked.

Thanks!

StihlRockin'

 

[CR888]

Noodleing is good to cut rounds that are difficult to cut. lts also fun if you have a well filed chain and powerefull saw. lt however is very messy with the noodles and wastes alot of wood compared to splitting

 

[StihlRockin']

Hey CR888!

Thanks for the reply but it didn't exactly get me to understand from what side the "noodling" is cut from.

Then again you said "...messy with the noodles", so I gather if one were to cut from the bark side, this is where the "noodles" are created because cutting from the top like I do, one gets dust rather than the longer cut shards, ie, "noodles".

Appreciate it.

SR'

 

[Freakingstang]

noodling is cutting from the bark side, through the log to the other bark side. Cutting it in half or 1/4s from the bark side. The chips you get are long stringy noodles, hence the noodle term.

Cutting from the "face" or rings side makes dust and is the same as milling. You are severing the end of the fibers making dust, where-as normal cross cutting cuts the fibers in half and noodling is ripping the fibers lengthwise.

as you said, one side you get dust and one side you get noodles.... and no way is the dust method quicker

 

[benp]

noodling is cutting from the bark side, through the log to the other bark side. Cutting it in half or 1/4s from the bark side. The chips you get are long stringy noodles, hence the noodle term.

Cutting from the "face" or rings side makes dust and is the same as milling. You are severing the end of the fibers making dust, where-as normal cross cutting cuts the fibers in half and noodling is ripping the fibers lengthwise.

as you said, one side you get dust and one side you get noodles.... and no way is the dust method quicker

I agree.

There are chains too specifically for the application of ripping/milling that are suited much better for this than a regular chainsaw chain.

http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...tch/Ripping-Milling-Chainsaw-Chain-3-8-x-050/

 

[mga]

not to mention cutting the face will dull the (normal) chain.

noodling will clog up inside your clutch sprocket area, so keep an eye on it and don't clean it out when the chain is moving.

 

[zogger]

Here ya go

 

[loadthestove]

The term "noodling"comes from the fact that when cutting from the bark side,you will have have a pile of cuttings that resemble a big pile of noodles,As bacaradi mentioned the noodles will clog up the clutch area of saw so frequent cleaning may be required when it.

Try this,, don't care much for the music but it will give you an idea about noodling.
For me cutting from the bark side is much easier than cutting from the face .

 

[Fred Wright]

Noodling is cutting downward through the bark with the block or round laying on its side. Ripping is done with the round standing on end, cutting downward. I prefer noodling over ripping; a ripped start cut doesn't necessarily make a tough block easier to split.

Chainsaws are cross cutting saws by design. They don't usually rip very well with a standard chain loop.

 

[Marshy]

This is noodling.



Ripping is like cutting slabs/boards from a log. You start at the cross cut end of the log and travel straight down the log.



And just to confuse you, sometimes people call noodling ripping...

 

[StihlRockin']

Wow! I'm impressed. Very impressed!

Thanks much guys for the great feedback. I've "noodled" several big blocks in my time after big rounds have been cut smaller to reduce the weight prior to lifting and throwing in the back of a dump truck, but didn't use it for making firewood easier to split. Y'all gave me some good help in the definitions, ie, ripping and noodling. Got it! I also like the links and additional info.

I have to agree on the point that cutting from the face side may not make splitting the block any easier. Especially if it's knotted or has wavy grains or if splitting one misses the kerf started by the saw. When I cut from the top I'd stand the round upright and use the dogs to hold it in place as I cut. Instead of trying to be Thor or the Hulk on splitting the tougher rounds, I'll save my energy and toss them to the side and when I get a heap going, I'll noodle the $**** out of them. LOL!

Thanks for your help guys.

StihlRockin'

 

[Marshy]

I think you'll find that noodling is slightly easier on the saw than ripping. The cutter angles for ripping are very different than what you would normally use for bucking rounds. When I need to use my saw to help reduce the size of the rounds I choose to noodle like in the video I posted and never the ripping method.

 

[StihlRockin']

Having cut many rounds from the side to reduce their size and lift weight, I did notice it is easier and doesn't have that hard bouncy feel when ripping from the face side. Doesn't take much noodling in one spot doing rounds to have a good pile of the stuff! Always thought of selling the shavings(noodles) to the local pet stores for bedding they can resell or use!


Thanks Marshy.

StihlRockin'

 

[CTYank]

not to mention cutting the face will dull the (normal) chain.

noodling will clog up inside your clutch sprocket area, so keep an eye on it and don't clean it out when the chain is moving.

'T'aint necessarily so. It's all in the design of the clutch cover.

Some saws will clog tight in a few seconds' noodling. Some have clutch covers explicitly designed to clear chips, and thus are excellent at noodling. For example: Dolmar PS-6100, PP5020, RedMax GZ4000.

If at all possible, I only noodle through the knot or crotch that's the problem. As possible, only into the wood for the width of the bar- wastes less wood. Then pop the rest with a maul.

Dunno who started the rumor about lots of power being necessary for noodling. I've not found that to be so. As for any chainsaw, the chain should be sharp, and kept sharp. Without saying , .025" joint (depth gauge setting.) If not, no go.

Neighbors like the noodles for mulch.

 

[nk14zp]

Caution noodling is addictive!

 

[StihlRockin']

If at all possible, I only noodle through the knot or crotch that's the problem.

Never thought of that. Good idea, thanks!

StihlRockin'

 

[mga]

'T'aint necessarily so. It's all in the design of the clutch cover.

Some saws will clog tight in a few seconds' noodling. Some have clutch covers explicitly designed to clear chips, and thus are excellent at noodling. For example: Dolmar PS-6100, PP5020, RedMax GZ4000.

If at all possible, I only noodle through the knot or crotch that's the problem. As possible, only into the wood for the width of the bar- wastes less wood. Then pop the rest with a maul.

Dunno who started the rumor about lots of power being necessary for noodling. I've not found that to be so. As for any chainsaw, the chain should be sharp, and kept sharp. Without saying , .025" joint (depth gauge setting.) If not, no go.

Neighbors like the noodles for mulch.

i ain't getting into a pissing match over which saw will or will not clog.

i just posted it as a safety reminder, that's all.

 

[CTYank]

i ain't getting into a pissing match over which saw will or will not clog.

i just posted it as a safety reminder, that's all.

What match you talking about? Just sharing experiences, which might be worth something. FWIW, Dolmar mentions chip clearance for at least some of their saws. The info might even be valuable to some prior to purchase, better than learning by experiment.

It's a variable.

(Killing government officials? Really?)

 

[WoodTick007]

Is that you Zogger in the video?

 

[zogger]

Is that you Zogger in the video?

No it is cody, seems to me he is a member but not sure.

No, I got nailed the other day..I look like one of the snow white and seven dwarfs guys...the 8th dwarf..hornee..

HAHAHAHAHAHA