Need help changing bar and chain size. Current is 20 inch, want to go to 16 inch. .325 .058 72DL 20 inch bar and chain currently.
- Thread starter DigIntoEverything
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And the winner is.........
This whole thread led up to a good reason I did not post yet,, he seemed like a closed minded troll from the beginning, been here long enough to recognize them,,otherwise he could get a cheap MS250 and quit complaining.
Jeff
Jeff
Yep, I don’t know the Stihl line, but a Husqvarna 445, would be a quality homeowner grade saw that would last him many years
The MSRP IS $339.95, but I got my Wife’s 445 for $305 without even trying to dicker with the dealer, he quoted the price when I asked for the saw, No Complaint from me, it has been a Great saw.
Doug
The MSRP IS $339.95, but I got my Wife’s 445 for $305 without even trying to dicker with the dealer, he quoted the price when I asked for the saw, No Complaint from me, it has been a Great saw.
Doug
You are absolutely correct , may be a bottom shelf unit , however would fill the bill for a backyard form of saw . Especially for a newbie ...plus would have some form of Dealer support .... if req,d !
vhmtach38
ArboristSite Member
I have saws older than him....
noodlewalker
ArboristSite Guru
It is disheartening to see someone being shamed for being young and inexperienced. If he had started out with a question about a bar and chain, and left out the saw and it's origin and price there would have been 10 guys chiming in with proper advice. As it stands the only advice he has received is ridicule. The guy bought a saw. The guy had a question. Now he is treated like less than human for his skill set, his age, his experience, and his purchase..... That is the shameful part.
To the OP... The most important number on the bar is the .325, this describes the pitch of the chain which is determined by the sprocket on the saw. Whatever length you choose, make sure the pitch (.325) is the same. Next number is the guage. You said it was .058. that describes the "track" that the chain goes in. Now there are several different guages you can buy, just make sure the guage of the chain matches the guage of the bar. A wider chain won't fit into a narrow "track" and a narrow chain will come out of the "track" while running and potentially cause harm either to you or the saw. Lastly is the drive Link count. This number represents the length of the bar. Beyond that there are many choices in types of chain. There are low profile chains which have a narrower kerf (the width of the cut) and there are safety chains (which I would recommend given your experience) they have an extra piece on the cutting link that will cause the teeth to not cut on the end of the bar (which is how kickback is mostly generated). When you decide to purchase your shorter bar, make sure it has a matching chain and you should be ok. As far as filing it, there should be guidance on the packaging as far as diameter of file you need and angle of the "grind".
Once you get past all of that.... Truly listen to the advice that has been given about safety. I know we all think we are bullet proof, but tragic accidents happen in a fraction of a second. Just be careful. I (we) urge you to gain knowledge of the tool and the profession and build from that knowledge your own experience, then use that experience down the road in a safe manner.
I agree with you that you don't "need" to buy an expensive or "name brand" saw for what you are doing, if this saw works for you then that's ok. But the support behind it is going to be slim to none if you are planning on making money with it, there will be greater challenges because of the lack of support, but that is something you and only you have to deal with.
The advice about a sharp chain is something you need to listen to. A shorter bar doesn't make it less dangerous. A dull chain will cause you to make cuts in a more dangerous fashion because it will cause you to work harder and put more strain on the saw than is necessary. Do some research on sharpening them there is a ton of information on YouTube. Once you get that figured out you will see the difference between a dull chain and a sharp chain could be "life saving" so to speak. Good luck. And don't get discouraged. But do put your safety in the highest priority.
To the OP... The most important number on the bar is the .325, this describes the pitch of the chain which is determined by the sprocket on the saw. Whatever length you choose, make sure the pitch (.325) is the same. Next number is the guage. You said it was .058. that describes the "track" that the chain goes in. Now there are several different guages you can buy, just make sure the guage of the chain matches the guage of the bar. A wider chain won't fit into a narrow "track" and a narrow chain will come out of the "track" while running and potentially cause harm either to you or the saw. Lastly is the drive Link count. This number represents the length of the bar. Beyond that there are many choices in types of chain. There are low profile chains which have a narrower kerf (the width of the cut) and there are safety chains (which I would recommend given your experience) they have an extra piece on the cutting link that will cause the teeth to not cut on the end of the bar (which is how kickback is mostly generated). When you decide to purchase your shorter bar, make sure it has a matching chain and you should be ok. As far as filing it, there should be guidance on the packaging as far as diameter of file you need and angle of the "grind".
Once you get past all of that.... Truly listen to the advice that has been given about safety. I know we all think we are bullet proof, but tragic accidents happen in a fraction of a second. Just be careful. I (we) urge you to gain knowledge of the tool and the profession and build from that knowledge your own experience, then use that experience down the road in a safe manner.
I agree with you that you don't "need" to buy an expensive or "name brand" saw for what you are doing, if this saw works for you then that's ok. But the support behind it is going to be slim to none if you are planning on making money with it, there will be greater challenges because of the lack of support, but that is something you and only you have to deal with.
The advice about a sharp chain is something you need to listen to. A shorter bar doesn't make it less dangerous. A dull chain will cause you to make cuts in a more dangerous fashion because it will cause you to work harder and put more strain on the saw than is necessary. Do some research on sharpening them there is a ton of information on YouTube. Once you get that figured out you will see the difference between a dull chain and a sharp chain could be "life saving" so to speak. Good luck. And don't get discouraged. But do put your safety in the highest priority.
Unfortunately , sometimes the truth is a hard pill to swallow . You have given very prudent advice , however I do not believe anyone has responded without just cause . Especially Philbert , who offered genuine and correct advice within his 1st post . I also gave valid advice even , reiterating your recommendation of visiting a local dealer to size up an appropriate replacement b&c . Additionally after his response to Philbert I gave the o.p the benefit of the doubt and stated my opinion of the Bluemax saws he questioned accordingly . However no response just further insults to other forum members . I seriously do not believe the jury is out on this one bud ! I think his intentions have become quite clear within this matter , some people have to learn the hard way !!
Dingo you came for advice and got it. As a matter of fact you got a lot of good advice.You don't want to wear PE that's fine. Send us pics from the ER..As far a telling one of the most knowledgeable members to keep moving you have a lot of nerve. I haven't had to hand one of these out in a long time. Please fill out and return.
That is not an accurate representation of this thread's progress at all.
You are correct that if his only question was, 'how do I identify the correct guide bar for this saw?', he would have received different responses. But, his first post asked for advice and input - this was not something folks just came up on their own, due to a bias against younger posters or to cheap, Chinese saws:
Then he asked about other saws, referenced his inexperience again, and some of his assumptions:
You made some inaccurate assumptions in your first post:
I read his entire post before responding, looked up the saw he referenced, and spent some time trying to offer him advice. His later posts show that his mind was already set :
In other posts he rambles about his first 'Chinese' (his description) saw being a fine saw that 'starts up like a champ! ', but he is returning it anyway; that he does not know how to sharpen a chain, but will buy a larger saw to overcome that; that he just wants it 'to do some yard work or small DIY projects ' with a 60cc saw and a short bar (which he thinks will balance better and cut 'like a hot knife through butter'); that all 'name brand' saws are plastic, under-powered, and die in less than a year; that he is likely to continue to make mistakes and dump them via returns so that he has no responsibility; that cheaper is better; etc., etc., etc. Somewhere, experienced suggestions for spending his $200 better became '$600 saws' (in his mind).
And that we are here to serve him:
Your carefully worded, and thoughtful advice was likely wasted. He wanted someone to give him a link to the cheapest, 16" / .058 gauge (?) bar and chain combo that would fit the saw he has not bought (or returned) yet; to give him endless technical support that he will not get from buying a 'non-name brand' saw; and to blame when none of it meets his expectations.
Likely he has moved on by now, but you might send him a PM and develop your relationship there. If it is posted in these open, public forums, participants will offer their advice and feedback. It is not a concierge service.
There have been many threads here where people have fun, or report positive experiences, with the cheap 'Chinese' and clone saws, such as the returned Earthquakes, the Huztl or FarmerTec 'complete parts kits', etc. Lots of guys who openly admit that they are looking for the lowest cost option. But that is not the trail that the OP left here.
Philbert
noodlewalker
ArboristSite Guru
I never said one thing about your advice, and I don't care about his intentions. I simply commented about the ridicule he is receiving for his purchase, his age and his skill. If you perceive that I was calling you out for any reason I sincerely apologize.
Whatever his intentions, I wanted him to have information rather than shame for asking.
Bobby Kirbos
Scrounger of Cellulose Based BTUs
noodlewalker
ArboristSite Guru
I think his question about another saw was rhetorical... But my perception only. And to you I say as well I wasn't calling anyone out on their advice, rather their scoff for asking a question. His intentions may be one thing or another, but any question is deserving of an answer, and I agree with him in the fact that if a person doesn't have the answer then just don't say anything especially if it is degrading. I do agree that it got escalated quickly and didn't need to which never helps any situation. Your advice is good advice as was a lot of other advice, but the question was not answered before it became an argument.
noodlewalker
ArboristSite Guru
Wtf is this intended to mean??? Exactly the ridicule I was referencing. I'm a fuggin bridge dweller now for offering information? Or is he the bridge dweller for working within a budget? Either way this kind of sh1t helps noone.
Bobby Kirbos
Scrounger of Cellulose Based BTUs
Looking through this thread and seeing the reactions and perceived (?) attitude of the OP, he seems to be trolling, hence the bridge dweller reference. It's a nice way of saying "don't feed the troll".
noodlewalker
ArboristSite Guru
Thank you for explaining your reference as it went right over my head. My apologies for taking it the wrong way.
You are correct that we respectfully disagree, or have different perceptions. When reading his first post he strongly implied (my perception) that his reasons for swapping the bar were based on faulty assumptions. So, rather than helping him into a hole, folks tried to offer him some helpful advice, based on his broader request (referenced earlier).
You gave him straight advice on the bar tail mount in an early post, as did I. But he had already launched into his attack on 'name brand' saws and his expectations to get quality stuff while buying the cheapest, before that.
This is a 'no-win' situation; his questions deserve answers, but it is our fault when he does not like the answers? People provided him with opinions, recommendations, advice, and suggestions (the closest thing you get to answers on a free, open forum, like this). He asked about identifying bar tail mounts. He asked about running different bar lengths. He asked about different saws under $200. He got answers to all of those. People went beyond and offered insight into questions that he did not know to ask yet: some people might call that 'nosey' or 'intrusive' - others might see it as trying to help a guy out before he makes mistakes.
Philbert
Yep , pretty well sums it up unfortunately !
noodlewalker
ArboristSite Guru
Agreed. Good luck to all involved.
lmao , I never said you said anything about my advice ? only that I had reiterated your 1st post , bar advice to him . As for his intentions ? you should care , they were rather obvious from the various appropriate responses ... re: calling me out ? Going to have to do better than that for us Irish , lol. All Good Bud !
