To quote The Axe Book from Gransfors Bruks," When rounds are really big, gnarled and cross-grained,or have been stored too long and dried which make them hard to split, you might need to use a splitting maul or a splitting maul and wedges.(page 21)" So when the wood is fresh cut is when I find it splits the best. Other factors that affect the way wood splits can include length of the round,whether it is sitting on a solid chopping block,etc. Yes the Fiskars SS splits wet unseasoned wood like I really knew what I am doing.
Need new splitting maul.
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To quote The Axe Book from Gransfors Bruks," When rounds are really big, gnarled and cross-grained,or have been stored too long and dried which make them hard to split, you might need to use a splitting maul or a splitting maul and wedges.(page 21)" So when the wood is fresh cut is when I find it splits the best. Other factors that affect the way wood splits can include length of the round,whether it is sitting on a solid chopping block,etc. Yes the Fiskars SS splits wet unseasoned wood like I really knew what I am doing.
AKKAMAAN
ArboristSite Guru
Gränsfors use Swedish steel from the finest iron ore in the world, and have one of the most respected smith traditions...Enjoy the online books...
http://www.gransfors.us/AncientAxeBook.pdf
http://www.gransfors.us/TheAxeBook.pdf
Ps.
I use the Gränsfors hatchet everyday, for splitting my kindlings....
giXXer
ArboristSite Operative
Here is a pic if anyone is interested. The spring loaded levers originally seemed like a gimmick to me, but they appear to work well. That being said, I should probably shut-up about hand splitting since a majority of what I split is done with a hydraulic unit and also considering I have never used a Fiskars SS. After reading this thread I am kind of curious to use one.
P.S. Hey SJP, your avatar wouldn't happen to be Nicky @ Laguna Seca, would it? I actually had a tear in my eye that day as I watched the American flag finally being ridden around Laguna Seca in Moto GP for a victory lap! Great day in motorcycle history!
HOGBEAR
ArboristSite Operative
I have looked at that splitter before I like the idea but I like fiberglass handles.
giXXer
ArboristSite Operative
The wood handle has a very nice feel to it, but the head does sneak out a little after a couple of days of use. Anyone have any wood handle tricks? I have heard putting the head in a bucket of water overnight makes the wood expand a little and helps keep the head on. Anyone else ever try this?
Alaskat
ArboristSite Member
Fiskars gets my vote. I split more than a dozen cords in the last two weeks and the thing is awesome. I am bucking splitting and loading a cord in about a hour and twenty mins to two hours using the Fiskars SS and bungee cords. It is just a dream to work with but caution should be advised this thing slices through wood and anything that it contacts. Find a technique to using it safely.If it broke today I would be looking for another. Had a little trouble keeping from hitting the ground initially and that was using a chopping block.
AKKAMAAN
ArboristSite Guru
HOGBEAR
ArboristSite Operative
Give AKKAMAAN a pat on the back for the idea simply perfect.
Alaskat
ArboristSite Member
Yes the bungee eliminates alot of wasted efforts gathering split pieces.The bigger rounds I may have a dozen or more pieces that would be impossible to gather and stack in a armload but intact w/ bungee its like stacking rounds. Very efficient and productive. I very grateful for the best tip ever on hand splitting firewood.
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giXXer
I read somewhere in this forum that linseed oil is what should be used to condition the wooden handle. Water would rust the steel and if the tool is used in cold weather a water soaked handle could freeze and become brittle and shatter. Linseed oil is flammable so use it with care and dispose of oiled rages properly.
The handles on many of the quality mauls and axes from both the USA and Europe are wooden. I wish someone with knowledge on how to care for them would jump in an post. I use wooden handled sledge hammers all of my working years and had to replace a lot of them. It is not an easy task!
Tom
I read somewhere in this forum that linseed oil is what should be used to condition the wooden handle. Water would rust the steel and if the tool is used in cold weather a water soaked handle could freeze and become brittle and shatter. Linseed oil is flammable so use it with care and dispose of oiled rages properly.
The handles on many of the quality mauls and axes from both the USA and Europe are wooden. I wish someone with knowledge on how to care for them would jump in an post. I use wooden handled sledge hammers all of my working years and had to replace a lot of them. It is not an easy task!
Tom
bobt
Addicted to ArboristSite
Soaking a tool with a wooden handle in water is a bad idea as the cells swell so much that some are crushed by the pressure of expansion in the head. Then when the handle inevitably dries outit will be looser than before.
They sell different sizes of metal wedges that are pounded into the end of the handle. Remember to seat the handle securely in the head first by hitting the end of the handle on a solid surface.
Using wedges is the only correct way to secure the handle in the tool.
Bob
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
AKKAMAAN
ArboristSite Guru
This linseed (flaxseed)oil, caught my interest a bit! I remember as alittle kid, my dad bought a brand new wooden row boat, and he treated the boat with wood tar for the lower boards and paint for the higher boards. A couple of years later my uncle bought a brand new wooden row boat, and he treated his boat with linseed oil. For forty years, my dad kept treating the lower boards with tar. My uncles boat never needed any further treatment what I can recall...
I am sure linseed oil is an outstanding treatment for wood.
I read some about linseed oil, and there are basically three different sorts of oil.
Raw cold pressed oil, seeds pressed at a temp (from friction) lower than 158F
Cooked linseed oil, at temp of 300-500F
Stand oil, heat treated at temp of 570F
The higher temperature treatment, the larger molecules get, and less penetration. It is hard to get by the raw cold pressed linseed oil today.
It seem to be recommended to heat up (lowering the viscosity) cooked linseed oil for best penetration.
WARNING ALERT!! Due to fast oxidation, cooked linseed oil will easily self ignite together with cotton fabric and saw dust etc.
Flax seed oil or linseed oil, have been used for thousand of years, mostly as a base for paint.
giXXer
ArboristSite Operative
Thanks for all of the input guys. I'll have to give the linseed oil a shot and replace the wooden wedge in the head. I can still use it for several hours and it only moves an 1/8" or so, so it isn't too bad yet. And also thank you for the warning on how flammable the oil is. I spent a little over 9 years doing water and fire damage restoration and I have seen quite a few fires started with little more than a few rags and the wrong types of chemicals/solvents, typically when restoring/re-finishing/staining wood. It has always amazed me how a small pile of rags can start an entire house on fire...most people don't realize that it can happen.
johncinco
Addicted to ArboristSite
I see a block has been mentioned, mainly to protect the cutting edge of whatever tool you are using. After splitting 100s of cords by hand, I think a block also serves another purpose. When you split a piece on the ground, I think the ground acts as a shock absorber, cushioning your blow a bit. A block helps keep your split piece in place, and puts the energy into splitting better. Maybe its just my imagination at work, but I swear rounds split better when up on a block. I keep a great big hard gnarly round around just for that purpose.
I always soak my wooded handled tools in oil. The wood will absorb the oil, and not dry back out like water. If I swing so fast later it bursts into flames, well I guess I'll have to live with that. :hmm3grin2orange:
I always soak my wooded handled tools in oil. The wood will absorb the oil, and not dry back out like water. If I swing so fast later it bursts into flames, well I guess I'll have to live with that. :hmm3grin2orange:
thefeckerwest
ArboristSite Lurker
Overstriking.
Maul handles are broken by overstriking (i.e. striking the wood to be split with the handle of the implement). Hard and fast swings will not break handles, if done properly, no matter how strong you are. It is all about technique and accuracy.
Maul handles are broken by overstriking (i.e. striking the wood to be split with the handle of the implement). Hard and fast swings will not break handles, if done properly, no matter how strong you are. It is all about technique and accuracy.
gregfox
ArboristSite Operative
I put one of the round metal wedges (97 cents at Menards) in and the head doesn't even think about moving anymore. I bet that will be the last wedge that handle will need before replacement :msp_thumbup:
redneck51587
ArboristSite Operative
Go to lowes and get an 8 or 10 pound True Temper. With the red fiberglass handle... You won't be disappointed. And lowes will honor the lifetime warranty. They're like $25.
redneck51587
ArboristSite Operative
My grandfather soaked his axes and mauls the night before his entire life. It sure did the trick as he burned about 15 cord a year... (Shop, house, and milk parlor) One this I noticed though is that over time the integrity of the wood got weak... And the head and the end of the handle that was in it would just break off. I have seen this twice in my life.
