Need some info on a BEAVER!

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xntrik

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So I just inherited a pile of old saws. One of which is some old Mccolloch Eager Beaver, which I see many here are pretty familiar with. [emoji51]

This one I BELIEVE is a 2.0, all I can see is a model number 60012312, but the sticker under the handle that I’ve seen in pictures on other saws that says “2.0” is either gone or was never there.

Has what looks like a manual oiler... best described as a bent coat hanger lookin wire that appears to thumb operate it?

Would this have an auto oiler too?

I’ll say this, the thing has sat for well over 10 years. I dumped the varnish out, rinsed the tank with fresh mix (40:1), dribbled a little down the carb, and it fired and idled on the 2nd pull. Didn’t take long before it was running/idling like a champ.

Im really kinda looking for any info on the thing.

Already requested manuals/parts diagram in the appropriate thread.


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Beavers are a mammal with a big waffle tail and are on the hairy chainsaw side with those big front teeth!

... but they do taste alright if cooked properly.
 
Whilst I have minimal exposure to the mammalian variety, my experience with the two legged species is expansive.

In that arena, I’ve never stuffed my face with one I didn’t love the taste of; or at least feasted on like I did.

While some of those have been expensive ventures in the past, the aforementioned beaver was free.

:)


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I’d love to know if mine is points or not, I suspect it’s NOT...

Since it’s running so good I’m not going to tear it apart just to find out.

Does 40:1 mix sound good enough for it? Nothing on the saw says what mix to use, I just read that somewhere last night after I saw it was a complete saw, wasn’t seized, had spark, and “may” run. Seems to run well with it.

Had some mix in a can for a weed eater.

I know 40:1 designates the oil ratio, but never quite grasped what’s heavier on oil or lighter.... I just have two separate cans in the garage for either the weed eaters, blowers, or mini tiller. One 40:1 can, one 50:1 can.

My experience with chainsaws is this....

Very little....

My dad usually ran all stihl’s, and didn’t really work on them save for a blade/bar replacement. All they ever really seemed to need. :)

These came from an in-law cleaning out his junk barn who knows I’m a sucker for tinkering or restoring old crap.

I bought MY first saw in an emergency about 9 years ago after a tornado skirted our property and dropped a couple massive branches on some overhead lines to a couple of our outbuildings... a Walmart poulan that lasted only long enough to get done what I needed, and I suspect the cylinder is scored.

Actually just this summer I purchased a new MS170, that I’ve used very lightly doing some little trimming.

THAT saw will ONLY be using the stihl pre-mix.

I also only use ethanol free in the mix for any of my other weed eaters/blowers etc.

Having rebuilt HUNDREDS of motorcycle and mower carbs from ethanol fouling, I know better.

Jumping into chainsaws is a new venture for me.


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The eager beaver was part of a family of saws from the early 90s that was particularly hard to work on supposedly. Mine was a 3014, and had a bad oil tank could never find a replacement reasonable. But it ran great. Considered a throwaway saw by many but I feel like it ran better than Poulan/homelite saws of the era and it was lighter and powerful. I believe they had a code like 3014 (30cc 14" bar).
 
Flyingdutchman,

I’ve had great success with repairing atv and mower tanks.... or pretty much ANY kind of plastic tank/pan/fenders with the harbor freight plastic welder. Just do your best to match the filler plastic to the type the item to be “welded” is. Cheap investment that’s more than paid for itself. Strips of old milk jugs or the like are good to keep on hand for most of the clear or opaque tanks you’ll find.


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As an update.... temps dipped pretty low here the other night.... 28 if I recall. Went out to the barn with frost on the ground, choked the little beaver and yanked it twice. Fired right up. I cannot believe that after sitting that long with nasty old gas in it it’s running like this.


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I’d love to know if mine is points or not, I suspect it’s NOT...

Since it’s running so good I’m not going to tear it apart just to find out.

Does 40:1 mix sound good enough for it? Nothing on the saw says what mix to use, I just read that somewhere last night after I saw it was a complete saw, wasn’t seized, had spark, and “may” run. Seems to run well with it.

Had some mix in a can for a weed eater.

I know 40:1 designates the oil ratio, but never quite grasped what’s heavier on oil or lighter.... I just have two separate cans in the garage for either the weed eaters, blowers, or mini tiller. One 40:1 can, one 50:1 can.

My experience with chainsaws is this....

Very little....

My dad usually ran all stihl’s, and didn’t really work on them save for a blade/bar replacement. All they ever really seemed to need. :)

These came from an in-law cleaning out his junk barn who knows I’m a sucker for tinkering or restoring old crap.

I bought MY first saw in an emergency about 9 years ago after a tornado skirted our property and dropped a couple massive branches on some overhead lines to a couple of our outbuildings... a Walmart poulan that lasted only long enough to get done what I needed, and I suspect the cylinder is scored.

Actually just this summer I purchased a new MS170, that I’ve used very lightly doing some little trimming.

THAT saw will ONLY be using the stihl pre-mix.

I also only use ethanol free in the mix for any of my other weed eaters/blowers etc.

Having rebuilt HUNDREDS of motorcycle and mower carbs from ethanol fouling, I know better.

Jumping into chainsaws is a new venture for me.


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No points, the earlier Mini Mac series of saws had points, Eager Beavers are CDI.
If it's running good, do not disassemble, because chances are then you'd have a problem manifest, haha.
People like to rag on the little McCullochs but I like them, they're pretty tough and snappy saws.
 
Flyingdutchman,

I’ve had great success with repairing atv and mower tanks.... or pretty much ANY kind of plastic tank/pan/fenders with the harbor freight plastic welder. Just do your best to match the filler plastic to the type the item to be “welded” is. Cheap investment that’s more than paid for itself. Strips of old milk jugs or the like are good to keep on hand for most of the clear or opaque tanks you’ll find.


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The problem was the surface of the tank that seated against the O-ring in the oil cap broke away in a place. I tried to file it down but then the cap bottomed out against the body of the saw and didn't seal anyways. My brother in law ended up trying to retrofit the engine onto a an Earthquake tiller and that was the end of it.
Great it's running. I liked the saw a bunch and would probably still use it to this day had it not broken.
 
Thank GOD it’s not points. I have enough points to deal with on my old bikes.

At this point I plan on just tossing a plug and air filter at it (the rubber air filter washer is a little warped as well). Cleaning it up good, and loaning it out to whomever may need a quick lite saw.


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