Need wheel/bearing for logsplitter

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Ray Bennett

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My Troy built Log splitter wheel bearing is toast. And unfortuantley the bearign is part of the wheel. After a terrible fight I got it off and am having a tough time finding The right size replacement. My splitter is the LS275, I think the bore is 3/4". I can find the wheels with these intrigual bearings everywhere with 1" bore's but not 3/4" If anyone knows where to find the assembly resonably priced please let me know. Troy built wants $175, My dealer wants $150 and northern tool and tractor supply have them for 1" shafts for $40. Troy built is really trying to stick it to me. Thanks for the help.
 
Try the zone.

Auto Zone or Napa. Both stock quite a variety of tapered bearings.. That .625 shaft might find itat Ace hardware as that is a pretty common front wheel on a lot of older mowers I do believe. Can you find a part number from the good bearing on the other side?
 
I have the part numbers , problem is the bearing and the wheel are ruined, They come as one assembly and when the bearing went It welded the whole thing together. Getting the mess apart The wheel got bent.

I like the idea of getting a sleave and up grading to 1" anyway
 
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bearings etc.

My Troy built Log splitter wheel bearing is toast. And unfortuantley the bearign is part of the wheel. After a terrible fight I got it off and am having a tough time finding The right size replacement. My splitter is the LS275, I think the bore is 3/4". I can find the wheels with these intrigual bearings everywhere with 1" bore's but not 3/4" If anyone knows where to find the assembly resonably priced please let me know. Troy built wants $175, My dealer wants $150 and northern tool and tractor supply have them for 1" shafts for $40. Troy built is really trying to stick it to me. Thanks for the help.


Ah yes grasshopper do not forget the swedes wisdom as all bearings are metric in size.

The outer race of the good existing bearing and inner race of the bearing have id numbers for the metric size. by the sounds of it all you should be changing both bearings with all haste.

Regarding the bearings they were press fit obviously so they are tighter than a bad wedgy. an easy way to get the existing bearing off the wheel to identify it is to stick the wheel in the freezer overnight if you have room-yes take it to the carwash beforehand grasshopper. Also use a bronze punch or borrow one from someone if possible as it will not destroy the markings for the bearing ID.

while it is still very frozen after a few taps with a bronze punch the bearing falls out take it to the local bearing store and get a pair of them.


:cheers: :givebeer: :givebeer: :chainsaw: :monkey: :popcorn: :popcorn:
:notrolls2:
 
When I got the homemade splitter I have now it needed a wheel bearing. I took wheel and hub off and found the oddest taper bearing I'd ever seen.t had a step in it. The great people at napa did finally find me one and it was 65.00. I asked them if they could cross reference it to anything and they said it matched a few old boat trailer axles. I replaced the one bearing and slapped plenty of grease into the other. Dont want to have to buy another one of those little guys.
 
This is the wheel with the formed center where the bearing go?
Could you update to hubs and emountable wheels at this time?

Also, NAPA or industrial supply place mayhave various ID cukps for the same bearing cone.

kcj
 
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