Needs help with new DOLMAR 5100

[Chopwood]

Nice vid Tim, except that 5100 is ported and running in 12 inches of soft aspen. A 50cc saw in 20" of hardwood is a waste of time. Just my opinion, hope no one gets offended by it. When I cut big hardwoods, it's my husky 394. At the least, it's the ported husky 365.

 

[timistall]

Granted...my FL trio is 5100 18", 361 20", and 372xp 24" for storm damage down here. We have pine, oak, and china berry trees.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Quadra,

Pick yourself up an inductive tach. Makes rough tuning easy. Look up the max RPM in your manual (or online) and just set it there by the tach and forget about it. I can't hear the burble that folk talk about so I just set it according to factory specs. It won't be fine tuned for exactly the right mixture but it's unlikely that you will do it any damage. On the other hand, if you had it tuned by a good reputable shop, you could take note of where they set it with your tach and then it would be easy to put it back there in the event that it needed tweaking again.

Ian

 

[mountainlake]

Hi,

I am a new member in need of some information/help .

First of all I wanted to thank everyone here for sharing all of this useful and great information . I am an amateur chainsaw user, I have a Quadra Fire insert stove that I have been using for the last 8 years. Most of my firewood I used to buy but with the prices of wood going for $250 a cord or more I decided to “fetch” my own firewood.

My fist chainsaw was, and still is the Husqvarna 141 with 16” b/c. I have been using this saw for the last 3 years, it is a great saw that I used it for felling and bucking some black cherries (~20” diameter) and oaks (mostly branches) that I have around my property.

I new I needed a new more powerful saw mostly for bucking 4 to 7 cords of firewood a year. I did a search found this forum and did a lot of reading. I decided to get a new Dolmar PS-5100S and I was just doing a final search to see if there was one on ebay and to my surprise I found a used one for sale by a Pawn shop! I got it for $201 delivered! I thought it was a good deal…

When I got it I fist inspected it and it looked like it had the original DOLMAR bar and had a date code of 0511 (November 2005)! I removed the top cover and the filter looked clean, after further inspection I decided it is time to start it, three pulls with chock and one pull in center position and it started right up! Like I mentioned I am new to chainsaws so I can not really tell if it is tuned correctly but it idled smoothly and responded well to throttle changes.

I ordered a new 18” 3/8 b/c from Amick’s (Tony was very helpful) and also had to get the new boot insert, it did not have one, and a new spark plug gapped to 0.5mm. I checked the compression and had to pull start 7 to 9 times to get the needle gage to stop moving and it stopped at around 175 PSI. I tried a few times and got similar results every time.

Now finally to my question (sorry for the long introduction) with all the readings it sounds to me that this saw is very powerful but when I try to buck large logs 20” to 24” in diameter, with the spikes in and some good pressure the saw bogs down and stops! I have to release the pressure for it to continue cutting. Is this normal or is there something wrong with this saw? If I do not put pressure it seems to cut well but from the readings it sounds to me that it should not stop the chain from moving when I put pressure on it!

I ordered a new larger 3/8 20" b/c from Amick's but I wounder if the saw has enough power to move it after last experience .

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Rony

Can you lean on your Husky harder? If so your chain is dull. Compare how fast they cut not how hard you can lean on them. Steve

 

[sugarbush]

Hi,

I am a new member in need of some information/help .

First of all I wanted to thank everyone here for sharing all of this useful and great information . I am an amateur chainsaw user, I have a Quadra Fire insert stove that I have been using for the last 8 years. Most of my firewood I used to buy but with the prices of wood going for $250 a cord or more I decided to “fetch” my own firewood.

My fist chainsaw was, and still is the Husqvarna 141 with 16” b/c. I have been using this saw for the last 3 years, it is a great saw that I used it for felling and bucking some black cherries (~20” diameter) and oaks (mostly branches) that I have around my property.

I new I needed a new more powerful saw mostly for bucking 4 to 7 cords of firewood a year. I did a search found this forum and did a lot of reading. I decided to get a new Dolmar PS-5100S and I was just doing a final search to see if there was one on ebay and to my surprise I found a used one for sale by a Pawn shop! I got it for $201 delivered! I thought it was a good deal…

When I got it I fist inspected it and it looked like it had the original DOLMAR bar and had a date code of 0511 (November 2005)! I removed the top cover and the filter looked clean, after further inspection I decided it is time to start it, three pulls with chock and one pull in center position and it started right up! Like I mentioned I am new to chainsaws so I can not really tell if it is tuned correctly but it idled smoothly and responded well to throttle changes.

I ordered a new 18” 3/8 b/c from Amick’s (Tony was very helpful) and also had to get the new boot insert, it did not have one, and a new spark plug gapped to 0.5mm. I checked the compression and had to pull start 7 to 9 times to get the needle gage to stop moving and it stopped at around 175 PSI. I tried a few times and got similar results every time.

Now finally to my question (sorry for the long introduction) with all the readings it sounds to me that this saw is very powerful but when I try to buck large logs 20” to 24” in diameter, with the spikes in and some good pressure the saw bogs down and stops! I have to release the pressure for it to continue cutting. Is this normal or is there something wrong with this saw? If I do not put pressure it seems to cut well but from the readings it sounds to me that it should not stop the chain from moving when I put pressure on it!

I ordered a new larger 3/8 20" b/c from Amick's but I wounder if the saw has enough power to move it after last experience .

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Rony

18in. bar with 3/8 chain buried in hard wood will bog fairly easy. you'l need a light touch. 20in. will be worse. take it to a shop and have the carb set with a tac, you can't set it correctly by ear. also check your muffler screen to make sure it's clear. i set up all my 510 and 5100's with .325, the cutting here is also mainly hardwood -- but i agree with other's if your cutting 20-24 in. wood you should be looking for a much bigger saw, 70cc or more.

 

[belgian]

. I am not trying to be a smart**s but is it really so difficult with tuning a carburetor? There are three adjustments H L & S, all you have to do is first back the top speed H adjuster all the way out CCW, then set the idle with the S adjuster, set the H for top speed (this might be a little tricky to do by ear but possible), check for smooth/fast acceleration with the L adjuster and finally fine tune idle adjuster S again.

Is this too difficult to do? Am I taking a chance?

Thanks,
Rony

I think that tuning a carb is much more difficult than judging the overall performance (or lack of) of your saw when cutting wood. Since the latter is the main problem anyway, I agree with plantbiologist that you should take the saw to your dealer or someone experienced to tune the carb, before starting to explore yourself and risk damage.

My feeling is that you expect too much out of this saw anyway. The 5100 is promoted here as the best saw in its class, test it on some smaller stuff and you should have better insight.

 

[Quadrafire2]

Thank you all for your help . I will bring the saw to a dealer for carb adjustment and post results. I might get the inductive tach as well, might be worth the price in a long run.

From reading your responses my feeling right now is that I am asking too much from this saw! For some reason I thought that 3.8hp would be enough to be able to take the load/pressure.

The 141 Husky does not have the spikes so I can not really put pressure, saying that it does hold pretty well to pressure when I push down hard on it, but the chain is 16” and it is the original, very narrow so it is probably easy on the engine. But surprisingly it holds up quite well. I guess that is why I expected more from the 5100.

Thanks for the photo JT78, I will take my brand new NGK plug out and check it!

“Yes, the way it sounds - let the saw do most of the work, not you!”

SawTroll, it sounds like this might be my problem! If I let the saw do the work it does cut like crazy, but it is tempting to put pressure especially when one has to rip a large maple log 16” long and ~24” diameter, a bunch of them.

Superfire, I did sharpen the chain even though it was bran new because when I tried to cut through a “V” branch (maple) I saw some sparks, so I figure there must have been sand or maybe the sap? I could not believe later when I sharpened the chain, the cutters were worn, some pretty bad! How long should a chain last before it has to be sharpen? I realize it depends on many conditions but on average in hard wood?

Thanks,
Rony

 

[outdoortype]

My feeling is that you expect too much out of this saw anyway. The 5100 is promoted here as the best saw in its class, test it on some smaller stuff and you should have better insight.

Exactly right! You can cut bigger wood 20" hardwood with this saw but it will just take longer. I would return the 20" B&C before even trying it if possible. I had a 5100s very briefly(great machine) and I would stick with a 16" (maybe 18") .325" setup with Stihl RS or Oregon 20LP or 21LP. IMO, if you want to cut OAK with a 50 cc saw, You want smaller teeth and little pressure. But Cherry is a different story.
Also, I cant agree more with these guys about buying a tach. I have Design Technology (Fast Tach I think) and it's probably the most valuable tool you can get. Even though I use Plug Color as the final judment, It's great to know where your at and that your not past the limits!!! It seems like the modern saws are jetted leaner and it's hard for me to hear the burbling. When I get even 700 RPMs away it's still very faint.

 

[davefr]

From reading your responses my feeling right now is that I am asking too much from this saw! For some reason I thought that 3.8hp would be enough to be able to take the load/pressure.

You're definately asking too much from this saw. Dawging into 20-24" logs and expecting no slowdown is unreasonable. I'm affraid you can't adjust this saw to perform like a 80 cc saw.

You generally don't need to go beyond the range of the carb limiters on a stock PS5100.

I was recently slicing off 20-24" stumps with my 046 and even it was slowing down.

P.S. It's finally time to invest in a tach. Any recommendations out there??

 

[GASoline71]

Remove the dogs (spike). You are not using them correctly. They are not intended to "dog in" for every cut and then pull up on the saw.

It ain't your chain... it's your technique.

Trust me... it will make your life easier.

Gary

 

[belgian]

P.S. It's finally time to invest in a tach. Any recommendations out there??

Ahhhhhh, what would we do without the 'search' funtion ???

click one this one http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=42311&highlight=tach

 

[SawTroll]

Remove the dogs (spike). You are not using them correctly. They are not intended to "dog in" for every cut and then pull up on the saw.

It ain't your chain... it's your technique.

Trust me... it will make your life easier.

Gary

You hit the nail squarely this time, I agree with you for once...lol

I have no dawgs on the MS361, and sertainly not on the smaller ones.

 

[Quadrafire2]

Glad to get you guys closer together…

Well, I finally got time to use the saw again with some of your suggestions. First I called the dealer and they told me it will take a week to get the saw back for a tune-up, I did not want to wait that long because I am going away next week on business till Friday and did not want to wait that long for the next firewood cutting.

I tried to order the TT-20K from the manufacturer web site but I think there must be something wrong with the site, I could not get the order placed in the cart! It keeps on saying “0 in cart” even though I select the item. I will have to call them next week and order one. I figure I could use it to tune my 141 Husky, ECHO trimmer, REDMAX 7100 blower and now the DOLMAR 5100. I am sure it will pay for itself soon.

Believe it or not I went for the full house and placed the bran new 20” b/c on the saw! I wanted to see what this thing could do, I said to myself if it won’t cut well I will get a bigger cc saw. I cut many large maple logs, I mostly ripped them, they where anywhere from 18” to 26” diameter. Most of them were cut to size ~17” long, and some I had to trim the length. Per Gary’s and Sawtroll recommendation I remove the spike. I was skeptical at first but when thinking about it it did make sense to remove it and I also gained another inch in length anyway! Wow this saw cuts well , I guess I was not using it correctly, I was trying to force it into the cut before with the spike but like others said you are suppose to let the saw do the cutting, and it did very well!

It is fanny when I first started the cut when ripping, on a slight angle, it cuts okay but when the bar goes all the way in it suddenly start to cut very very fast! It felt like it was “eating the wood”. This was a strange but nice feeling. Like I mentioned a few of the 20” logs I had to shorten and the saw did very well, I am very pleased.

I removed the spark plug and it was a little wet and black, I guess I was running too rich.

It will be interesting to see how it performs after I tune it with the inductive tachometer.

Thank you all for your help.

Rony

 

[ericjeeper]

To read the sparkplug.

Run the saw a while. get it good and warm. Make a few wide open cuts in the log. Then make one last cut as the saw is exiting the wood still at wide open throttle. Hit the kill switch.Now read the plug. Letting the saw idle around a bit after a wideopen cut can change a plug color pretty quick. Good luck

 

[Wortown Mick]

Glad to get you guys closer together…

It is fanny when I first started the cut when ripping, on a slight angle, it cuts okay but when the bar goes all the way in it suddenly start to cut very very fast! It felt like it was “eating the wood”. This was a strange but nice feeling.

Rony

Look what you guys did.
This dudes wifes gonna want your heads on a pike by next month.



Welcome to the addiction.
Really though, you know why you need a 7900 to go with that 5100 now.
:rockn:

 

[JT78]

Just wait till you get that tach and set that saw it will really eat some wood congrats.

 

[Quadrafire2]

Am I crazy...

Well, I am still waiting for the tach, but in the meanwhile I just bought another saw... You guys wont believe it but I was looking for a good used 372xp on ebay but could not find one for a decent price. Then after doing some more reading I found a 044 Magnum ! I won the saw for $420 shipped!

I hope it is a good saw, it has a 32" bar on it and has a full wrapped handle. The seller (saw-king, item 140173843142) says he removed the muffler and inspected the piston & walls and they look good! Wow I figure with this saw If I get a 20" bar I might have the 1 saw that I need. It is only 2 lb heavier that the Dolmar 5100, is that possible?

What do you guys think, am I crazy?

Thanks,
Rony

 

[Quadrafire2]

Yesterday I bucked some 24” Oak with the 5100, to recall I remove the spike and have a 20” 3/8 b/c. It did fine but it took a little time to cut through it. With the 044 potentially I could go for bigger logs, they hold more firewood than the small logs! The only draw back I could see with the 32” chain is the time it will take to sharpen it. I could make all the bucking with the 32” and rip with a 20” bar.

Will I be able to use the 20” bar from the Dolmar saw on the 044?

Rony

 

[Brushwacker]

I have an o44. Mine is not the Mag and to tell the truth I don't remember the differences. I think the Mag has a little more displacement and power but not sure. Bought mine on ebay over a year ago for about $225. Actually I didn't expect to get it but I throw low bid s on saws I'd like to have and won this one. I never tested the compression but it feels low, but starts great and runs good and I find it a very comfortable saw to run in most situations and less fatiguing in general handling, shutting it down and restarting when moving wood and branches.Used it with a 25 inch and now am using with a 20 inch. It did decent with the 25 full comp chain but it does feel more powerful and snappier with the 20. I have a 660 that usually wears the 25 so no need to push it or over haul the top end as long as it starts and runs good.
I believe the 32inch on yours is more then I would use on a regular basis. You will have a power advantage and good balance with 20 or 25.If your compression is up and its properly tuned a 25 inch should perform very well. A skiptooth chain could be an advantage also, I think they are unless you are cutting mostly very small wood.
If your Dolmar is stock I am reasonably sure the bar will not interchange with Stihls.
Congradulations on your new purchase. In 30 + years I cut several 30 inch + hardwood trees and I am sure the 044 has enough guts to have done any one of them.

 

[SawTroll]

Yesterday I bucked some 24” Oak with the 5100, to recall I remove the spike and have a 20” 3/8 b/c. It did fine but it took a little time to cut through it. With the 044 potentially I could go for bigger logs, they hold more firewood than the small logs! The only draw back I could see with the 32” chain is the time it will take to sharpen it. I could make all the bucking with the 32” and rip with a 20” bar.

Will I be able to use the 20” bar from the Dolmar saw on the 044?

Rony

The bar from the Dolmar has the small Husky mount pattern, and will not fit.

Make sure that you use skip chain with the 32" on the 044.

I believe 2 lbs more weight than the 5100 (both empty powerhead only) is pretty close to the truth.