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new 550xp, question

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by benny3411, Sep 24, 2017.

  1. benny3411

    benny3411 ArboristSite Operative

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    I got a new 2017 550xp a few days ago, seems to be running alright. Im a little concerned though as I spotted some fuel on the intake, looks like its leaking around there. I plan to delete the primer system, I did it to my 562 and it started easier, ran better. Ive included a couple pictures of it and the leak. Ill probably be taking the carb off, wanted to get some opinions on it, hate tearing into brand new saw.

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  2. Duce

    Duce ArboristSite Operative

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    That's the dealers problem. Take it back and have them explain. Are carb bolts loose?
     
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  3. westcoaster90

    westcoaster90 westcoast dweller

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    it kinda looks like the fuel line is not fitted to the intake partition and probably not hooked up to the carb properly if at all. it does run though? in the 3rd pic just above where you can see bare throttle cable there is a notch for securing the fuel line during assembly. it looks like the line isn't there but down lower below the throttle shaft end. the only way it could work down there is if the fuel inlet on carb was turned in carb body to connect lower. i haven't worked on one of these in a while so could be not remembering right but that's where i'd be looking first just going off the pics. definitely a problem for the dealer to deal with on such a new saw though.
     
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  4. cus_deluxe

    cus_deluxe Thats what she said.

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    Yep dont touch it, return it to dealer asap and have them take care of it. Shanes probly right, probly just something easy, but not ur problem.
     
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  5. benny3411

    benny3411 ArboristSite Operative

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    The new ones come with a different fuel line hook up now, its all good there. I didnt get it from a dealer, an honestly I hate taking my saw to a dealer around here again, have had to many bad experiences with them. I just went out, took the carb off, and so far everything looks alright. Look at these new diaphragms. Im gonna clean every thing, let dry, and assemble it making sure its back together right and tightened in there. If the problem is still there, I might need to use three bond in a couple places.
    20170924_205041.jpg
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  6. benny3411

    benny3411 ArboristSite Operative

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    Well I deleted the primer system, made sure all the carb pieces were installed right and all screws tightened. I removed the carb flange to look at the intake pipes for any holes, really a bad idea, it is downright bugger to get it back on, all looked good everywhere. .I re installed the carb and the problem was still there. Leaking out in the same place as before. Took it back off for a second look. Everything still looked good. There is a tiny brass ring that sits in the beginning of the intake, to give it stability. I removed that brass ring, and then re installed the carb again. The saw started differently this time, stalled out. I started it again, sounded like it was re adjusting itself. I let it idle for awhile, gave it some throttle, started sounding good. The leak is gone now. The autotune adjusting itself like that tells me the leak is most likely gone now, I will definitely keep an eye on it though. For now its running good..starts easier, sounds good. I think I might have a solid saw now, knock on wood, if so, Im going to open up the muffler. more pictures coming
     
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  7. mark2496

    mark2496 ArboristSite Member

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    You left the brass ring out?

    Weird. Hope you got it figured out though.
     
  8. benny3411

    benny3411 ArboristSite Operative

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    Yes, I left the ring out. Maybe I didnt put the carb back in correctly the first time and removing that ring didnt have a lot to do with it. But the reason I removed it was because I could see the outline of the ring on the carbs mounting surface, I was thinking maybe the ring wasnt allowing the carb to be tightened down the whole way. I would rather have the saw with the ring back in, which maybe in the future I will do. Oddly enough though removing that ring seems to have fixed the leak. I ran it today and so far it seems to run just fine, and looks like its not leaking there anymore. heres couple pictures of the brass ring, and without the primer system on it

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  9. benny3411

    benny3411 ArboristSite Operative

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    picture

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  10. Karla

    Karla Addicted to ArboristSite

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    I have the Model 550 also, and just curious "Why you deleted the primer bulb ?" Also, I think I would put the brass support ring back into the intake boot, Just my opinion. I also suspect that you fixed the leak by just the re-assembly process, and maybe tightening up the bolts a little tighter. Thank you for the great pictures, I believe mine is a 2015 model with an AT-7 Carburetor, I was surprized to see the difference in the carburetor diaphrams too!
     
  11. benny3411

    benny3411 ArboristSite Operative

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    I deleted the primer system because I dont like them. It makes removing and assembling the carburetor easier. I like the less clutter in the carb bay. Also lessens chances of developing leaks. It seems to make them start quicker, less pulls. The primer bulb is only nice to have when the carb is completely empty of fuel, if you run the saw out of gas before putting it away, or on a very first start.
     
  12. blsnelling

    blsnelling Site Contributor

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    Why would you remove the metal ring? It needs to be in there.
     
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  13. Andyshine77

    Andyshine77 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    You want the ring in there it helps the boot seal better. I also don't see a problem, oil eventually works it's way around the sealing surfaces, plus they oil the boot up like crazy at the factory for assembly. I don't think the saw had an issue.

    I'm not a fan of the primer on these saws myself, stupid idea on Husky's part IMHO.

    I also recommend doing something like this to help keep heat away from the carb and cylinder.

     
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  14. benny3411

    benny3411 ArboristSite Operative

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    If I could find it, I would put back in. Im pretty sure I put it somewhere just so I wouldn lose it. Would you know where I could get another one in case I cant find it? I removed it to just to see if the carb would tighten down further without it. So far the saw's still running good, not leaking anymore. On previous model 550's 562's that ring was part of the carb. I put a thin coat of three bond on while putting it back together. I wish I had your knowledge on saws, an saw building, that for sure!
     
  15. benny3411

    benny3411 ArboristSite Operative

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    Its not suppose to leak there. The autotune adjusted itself after it was fixed
     
  16. Andyshine77

    Andyshine77 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Over tightening is bad too, you need to be really careful tightening the carb screws. There is no need for to use sealant unless you had a real bad air leak, and now if you take the saw apart you have a mess. Again oil can seep around the sealing surfaces, and the factory lubes them up when assembling. I see this all the time, it's pretty normal to have some oil residue in that area. I'm not saying the saw didn't have any issues, or that the carb screws weren't loose, as the QC on these saws has been sub par in my experance.

    If the saw is running as you believe it should, just run it.
     
  17. Ozhoo

    Ozhoo Addicted to ArboristSite

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    You gotta order a new one before you can find the old one... that's the rule.

    585 19 50-01
     
  18. benny3411

    benny3411 ArboristSite Operative

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    It just had a simple leak there...thats all. I always look around with a flashlight to check for leaks, I had a 562xp that came with a bad cylinder at first an always had me looking around that saw. I used three bond because I took the ring out, hoping to keep the intake stuck to the carb. I ordered two new rings just to have. As of now though, believe it, everything is still dry, shes running good. I have the muffler opened up, hoping to help keeps temps down. I have about half a triaxle load to cut yet. 550 is a good saw, so far Im liking it. Was thinking about putting a 562 clutch on it, the three piece one. Question, wouldnt a heavier flywheel and clutch help with torqe.
     
  19. benny3411

    benny3411 ArboristSite Operative

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    Awesome, thank you. Just ordered two. Now Ill have three of them, and you are definitely right about finding things like that. They always just show up too, its always when your not looking it for it, it decides to to come out of hiding.
     
  20. Andyshine77

    Andyshine77 Addicted to ArboristSite

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    Torque yes, but to name a few things it will kill acceleration, maybe the bottom end and so on. Only reason for a different clutch would be for lockup or durability, neither of which is a problem. Don't try and reinvent the wheel here, the best mod to do has already been done, you opened up the muffler.

    If you would take the time and read my other posts, and listen to the advise other share a bit more carefully. I'm not all knowing, but I do have some knowledge and experience.
     

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