New, Flat Scrench

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The small diameter screwdriver shaft fits through the clutch covers on many saws to reach the side-mounted, chain tension adjusting screw - I have had to grind some conventional scrench screwdrivers down to fit these holes. It will not work to clean the groove on your guide bar, but there are better tools for that anyway.

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It is interesting to note that some newer saws require a narrower screwdriver to adjust chain tension, and a wider one to release the sealed top covers. This challenge is not unique to this tool, but maybe indicative of reduced maintenance access expected with the spark plugs and air filters on newer saws.

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The wide body of the tool might be a issue with some front-mounted chain tension adjustment screws, as it can be with a traditional scrench - this is a place where a conventional screwdriver works best IMO.

A feature that is easy to overlook is a small hole to fit the tang of a round chainsaw file. In other words, the scrench is designed to serve as a file handle as well (photos on web page).

Philbert
 
The handle provides a larger, more comfortable grip than the screwdriver shaft of a standard scrench, and the pivoting socket lets you position it at a right angle for leverage, or in-line, like a nut driver, for starting the nuts.



Philbert

Cool, the pivoting head might be the ticket for full wrap access to the bar nuts.
 
Thanks for posting this Philbert, I find threads like this interesting. I really only have a couple of cheap screnches and probably should pick up a tool like this.
 
The magnetic version is kind of interesting. At first, I only noticed the magnet on the side, for sticking the tool to a metallic surface (tool box, vise, guide bar, trailer frame, etc.) for convenience when working. But it has 2 more rare earth magnets in the socket, to reduce the chance of dropping and losing bar nuts when removing and installing them.

The magnets hold the nuts TIGHT. The manufacturer suggests that one bar nut can be stored in the socket, and one on the side magnet, when working on saws with 2 bar nuts. This requires removing the last few threads of the first bar nut by hand, because you will not be able to pull an unattached bar nut out of the socket by hand! I had to thread the nut back onto the bar stud to pull it out of the socket, when experimenting with the tools. (Photo from product website).

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Philbert
 
Check the website for pricing - it varies with the model. Not sure about shipping. There is also an earlier 13mm only version that has a sliding screwdriver, instead of a pivoting one.


I get it. Not my design, just doing a review. The 12 point socket does provide more placement options, which can be an advantage sometimes. And the argument could be made that bar nuts should never be that tight where it becomes an issue. But I understand your point, especially with rounded off nuts.

Philbert
I like my nuts rounded.......they roll more smoothly (-;
 
I was interested in trying one until seeing the $30 price on eBay , there doesn’t seem to be any listed on Amazon.
Anyone know How long it actually is when folded ? And yes Philbert thanks for Showing us this new scrench !
 
I think so, based on my experimentation so far. Will have to try it some more in longer term use.

I have been taught that some people crank bar nuts much tighter than needed, and have had the experience of twisting the shaft of a conventional scrench into a spiral, like a piece of wet spaghetti, trying to loosen bar nuts that someone had cranked with a socket and ratchet after losing their scrench. It was a an MS250, and I was surprised that they did not strip the studs or the plastic case.

Had to search quite a bit for STIHL MT1 and MT2 since your link was obstructed. Don't seem to be offered on the STIHL USA page, but maybe dealers can get them? Looks like 13/19mm, chain tension screwdriver, T27 Torx, and carb screwdriver (MT2)? Maybe the plastic / polymer case affects your ability to apply enough torque?

Here are a few items from my personal scrench ('combination wrench') collection, including another 'flat' scrench (!), and an Oregon branded multi-tool: Some of these will work with some saws; some will not, due to bar nut size, wrap handle bars, depth, access, etc. You can see some visibility and loss prevention attributes as well. Some are easier to carry, and keep track of, than others.

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Philbert
The RatchetScrench fits on Stihl and Husky, fits under 3/4-wrap and full-wrap bars, and fits on your standard 19mm spark plug. (The flathead screwdriver tip even fits into your bar chain-groove, to clean out the gunk)! I decided to make this tool after 5 seasons as a hotshot, constantly fumbling around with traditional screnches. I'm proud to say the RatchetScrench is finally available, here: https://ratchetscrench.com/purchase
Our goal is to make the toughest jobs just a bit easier. :)
Check out my video:
Looking forward to everyone's reviews!
 
The RatchetScrench fits on Stihl and Husky, fits under 3/4-wrap and full-wrap bars, and fits on your standard 19mm spark plug. (The flathead screwdriver tip even fits into your bar chain-groove, to clean out the gunk)! I decided to make this tool after 5 seasons as a hotshot, constantly fumbling around with traditional screnches. I'm proud to say the RatchetScrench is finally available, here: https://ratchetscrench.com/purchase
Our goal is to make the toughest jobs just a bit easier. :)
Check out my video:
Looking forward to everyone's reviews!

Just a humble suggestion, could you possibly look at making these in bright colors such as blaze orange, chartruese, and hot pink so we won't lose them quite as easily.
 
Just a humble suggestion, could you possibly look at making these in bright colors such as blaze orange, chartruese, and hot pink so we won't lose them quite as easily.
Absolutely! Should we start a poll? Blaze orange, Chartreuse, or who's man-enough to rock Hot Pink?
 

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The RatchetScrench fits on Stihl and Husky, fits under 3/4-wrap and full-wrap bars, and fits on your standard 19mm spark plug.
Looks interesting.

Biggest problem I have had with ratchets and bar nuts is over-tightening; especially with polymer case saws. Actually turned a conventional scrench into a spiral once trying to loosen a bar nut tightened with a ratchet. Surprised how little effort it took!

Just a humble suggestion, could you possibly look at making these in bright colors such as blaze orange, chartruese, and hot pink so we won't lose them quite as easily.
Not sure if the surface of this tool will accept paint. I have used colored heat-shrink tubing to highlight parts of some tools, as well as Hi-Viz or fluorescent paint, and reflective tape, when it would stick.

Interested to see / try one.

Philbert
 
Looks interesting.

Biggest problem I have had with ratchets and bar nuts is over-tightening; especially with polymer case saws. Actually turned a conventional scrench into a spiral once trying to loosen a bar nut tightened with a ratchet. Surprised how little effort it took!


Not sure if the surface of this tool will accept paint. I have used colored heat-shrink tubing to highlight parts of some tools, as well as Hi-Viz or fluorescent paint, and reflective tape, when it would stick.

Interested to see / try one.

Philbert
The RatchetScrench is heat-treated 45# high-carbon steel so bent handles or spiraling won't be a problem. (The flathead tip can even withstand a 4' drop directly onto concrete with no problem).

The finish is nickel-plating, which helps resist rust. To spray paint nickel-plating, you'd probably want an etching primer, followed by an enamel paint. It'd be cool to see some custom colors by you guys!

Just received your order, Philbert...I'll get that out, today, and look forward to your review! Thanks so much!
 
The RatchetScrench is heat-treated 45# high-carbon steel so bent handles or spiraling won't be a problem.
Actually, it was the opposite IMO: it seemed like the soft steel handle of the conventional ('no-brand'?) scrench acted somewhat like a 'fuse', preventing someone from over-tightening the nut by bending, as well as by its narrow profile, which discourages applying too much force. Again, in my situation, I was removing bar nuts that someone had tightened with a conventional ratchet wrench. A solid tool that resists bending will require a bit more self-control.

Clearly, I am not expecting a torque wrench type response in a basic tool, but it is a caution that users should consider.

Philbert
 
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