New here - 346XP with a ground electrode that broke off in the cylinder

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You have a nice saw. Don't ruin it with a junk top end.

Make sure to get a new wrist pin AND bearing while you are at it. Make sure to use new piston clips too. Put a little rag under the piston when you install the second clip (the first clip will, of course be installed before you start installing the piston) so that it can't fall in the crankcase...
 
Ok thanks.
I'll put it back together then.

Taking it apart was relatively easy. Putting it together I have some questions:

1. Sealing the cylinder. I have read to use Hondabond. Am I using the High temp gasket sealer? Anything special other than to clean the surface and apply a bead?
https://www.amazon.com/Hondabond-High-Temp-Silicone-Liquid-Gasket/dp/B006YTTV4W2. Do I port anything in the cylinder now while I have it off? Should I leave well enough alone?
 
Did you find the strap? Make sure its not in the bottom end or muffler

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk
I forgot to mention that.

I did not actually find it. The muffler has no cat and no screen. So I'm wondering if it just blew out.
I'll check the bottom end tomorrow to make sure nothing went in there.
 
!!!!!!

what is that hanging off the plug in the pics?

you have to flush the crankcase a bunch if times with mix while pumping the crank with the rod. Feel for any grit while you are pumping and flushing.

you should measure the squish. Put a base gasket in there. Oem.

it's a revvy saw. Keep it that way, imo. It will rev free-er with stock compression. And your port timing will be stock.

perhaps the squish was tight and a worn wrist-pin and/or big-end bearing allowed enough slop for the plug strap to contact the piston.

make sure to check the rod big-end end-play. There should be none. Zilch.
 
!!!!!!

what is that hanging off the plug in the pics?

you have to flush the crankcase a bunch if times with mix while pumping the crank with the rod. Feel for any grit while you are pumping and flushing.

you should measure the squish. Put a base gasket in there. Oem.

it's a revvy saw. Keep it that way, imo. It will rev free-er with stock compression. And your port timing will be stock.

perhaps the squish was tight and a worn wrist-pin and/or big-end bearing allowed enough slop for the plug strap to contact the piston.

make sure to check the rod big-end end-play. There should be none. Zilch.

Ok bear with me please. I appreciate the advice.

Hanging off the plug? - That may just be some paper towel lint or something. Are you referring to the original pics of the plug missing the ground electrode?

Pumping and flushing - So pour gas + 2 stroke oil into the crankcase? I'm not sure what you mean by pump the crank with the rod. I'm assuming without the piston installed I try and rotate the crank while holding onto the rod?

Measuring squish - I would re-assemble everything and tighten down the cylinder. Then use something like solder to squish. Is that correct?

Wrist-pin - It seemed pretty tight. It was actually difficult to remove.

Rod end-play - I'm doing some research here. This is not side-to-side movement correct? More of an up-down play?
 
The wrist pin rides on the bearing which rides on the piston. Eliminating slop there results in increased longevity for the whole motor as it eliminates hammering. Obviously cheap insurance.
 
Maybe it's the pic, but it looks like one of your upper transfer ports has ding on the edge. You'll want to smooth that as much as you can and make sure it didn't smoosh into the cylinder at all. Other than that, if it were mine I'd buy a 44.3mm Meteor piston and run it!View attachment 845228
Good catch! Also looks like a matching dark line to the top of the cyl. Maybe caused by the electrode finally working it's way down to the bottom end?
 
I ordered a meteor piston for $36 shipped.

There is no play on the big end of the rod. I have yet to flush the crank case. Will do so today. I have a few days to clean up the saw.
Maybe I'll try and tackle the bar oil leak while I'm at it. That one is annoying.
 
I ordered a meteor piston for $36 shipped.

There is no play on the big end of the rod. I have yet to flush the crank case. Will do so today. I have a few days to clean up the saw.
Maybe I'll try and tackle the bar oil leak while I'm at it. That one is annoying.
A little sealant around where it pushes in the case and a new cover plate. Just make sure to clean everything VERY thoroughly.
 
The plastic ring compressing tools work great, and will help with the assembly.
I wipe the bore and piston with straight out of the bottle 2 cycle mix oil just to add some lubricity to those components during the first starting cycle.
You may know this, but 2 cycle pistons are not symmetrical. The arrow on the top of the piston needs to be pointed towards the exhaust port.
 
I have yet to flush the crank case. Will do so today. I have a few days to clean up the saw.
Maybe I'll try and tackle the bar oil leak while I'm at it. That one is annoying.
If the missing electrode doesn't show up during the flush I am wondering if it could have migrated through the bearing retainer and been caught between the bearing and crank seal. Might not be a bad time to replace the seals and have a look.
 
The plastic ring compressing tools work great, and will help with the assembly.
I wipe the bore and piston with straight out of the bottle 2 cycle mix oil just to add some lubricity to those components during the first starting cycle.
You may know this, but 2 cycle pistons are not symmetrical. The arrow on the top of the piston needs to be pointed towards the exhaust port.
actually, the pistons are symmetrical, the arrow points to the exhaust so that the locating pins for the rings are positioned towards the intake side so as not to get hung in the ports.
 
mastermind that cylinder and chamfer your ports. make sure you install the updated intake clip and partition.....I would use a base gasket. muffler mod and the right tune plenty of power to be had....PBMR7a plug all the way...

good luck
 
mastermind that cylinder and chamfer your ports. make sure you install the updated intake clip and partition.....I would use a base gasket. muffler mod and the right tune plenty of power to be had....PBMR7a plug all the way...

good luck
OK I feel like I'm learning a new language every time someone posts.

What does masterminding the cylinder mean?

I can chamfer my ports.

Why use a base gasket. I'm reading a bunch if opinions to do a squish test but it will likely warrant removing the gasket to increase compression.

Thinking of the muffler mod. Should be simple. Just missing some steel pipe to vent the holes.
 
you may need to explain that joke to the younger generation!

I felt old when we were b/sing at the shop one day and talking about "where were you" on 11 Sep 01.
The guy working for me was like... uh, I wasn't born yet.
 
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