New here - 346XP with a ground electrode that broke off in the cylinder

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This is new, please explain what they use to seal them and why you have had issues with them?
If the factory can't seal reliable using production tooling us carb hacks don't stand much chance.

Cant say I've ever had negative side effects from it.
Since the welch plugs usually cover the idle circuit any leaks will let extra fuel into the idle circuit and mess up the screw calibration at minimum. With a big enough leak the idle screw won't work at all and the idle will always be too rich.

Beside how else are you supposed to make sure you have all the passages cleaned out?
It is called carb cleaner like B-12. Spray it into the idle circuit and make sure it comes out the idle and progression hole in the venturi. BTW, how many carbs have you ever found crud/blockages under a welch plug?

Here is a way to make a test adapter to check your welch plug sealing prowess... Let us know your results.
 

Attachments

  • Stihl - CRB 105 Carb Service tools.pdf
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  • Stihl - CRB 108 Carburetor Welch Plugs.pdf
    545.7 KB · Views: 10
How did this turn out?

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

After I rebuilt the carb I gave it a tune, then tuned it again.
I haven't had a chance to use it as I'm caught up in home remodeling. 2AM every night type of stuff.

I ordered some parts from powermowersales.com and they never replied and were extremely delayed in shipping.
Included in those parts are the clutch springs and oil lines and cover. I want to replace those things at some point.

I will be using it tomorrow for a bit. Hopefully it goes well. My definition of goes well is that it doesn't break and after WOT it doesn't die on me.

I'll report back.
 
I had a 365 Special come in locked up. The operator said it began to ping loudly and quit running. Couldn’t start it because it was locked up. I took off the cover and when I pulled the plug wire the tip and electrode came out still attached to the plug wire. I pulled the cylinder off and still couldn’t get the crank to move either direction. I put a puller on the flywheel and when I tapped it the flywheel popped loose and the crank popped loose too. I turned the engine upside down and shook it and the spark plug ground strap fell out on the table. I split the case and removed the crank. The large rod bearing is tight. The case bearings I can feel slight flat spots. I saw no scoring or scratches in the case or on the crank. The piston was beat up on top in the squish band about 1/4 way around. The cylinder walls aren’t damaged. The squish band in the top of the cylinder looks peened in the same area the piston is damaged. The ring land is collapsed onto the top of the ring. I’ve been told that over revving the engine causes this. I plan to use the cylinder and replace the piston. Your piston and cylinder may look good but you need to check the ring groove clearance.before deciding to reuse the piston. The top land my be mashed down but not enough to lock up the ring. While I’m here can the administrator tell me by email where I can go to ask questions about port mapping and grinding. Seems like the instructions tell me not to ask questions. Sorry I just ask a question. Please cut me some slack I’m new here.
 
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