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Wow, what a saga. Your persistence will eventually pay off...
New Holland L425, a case of buyer beware.
- Thread starter 4seasons
- Start date
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And I thought that just I was the only one to land into a big puddle of crappy mud. I do not like at all the Wisconsin engine power plant. Why not put a Kubota power and be done with confidence. I discover they are not super hard to convert. I could see me going down that road also. Of course you will persevere. Thanks
Big Red Oaks 4 me
Fun with flying wood chips
You must be a really good guy. I wouldn't have lasted very long at all with all the issues. Patience is a great quality to have, and I simply don't have enough of that for even small jobs. Hope you are rewarded with a good, dependable machine in the end!
4seasons
ArboristSite Guru
Well after months of looking for a deal on either the parts to fix this one or a new engine I found a guy in Canada willing to sell a jug that needed rebuilt. Price was right but I would have to buy it sight unseen from a guy off the internet. Then I ran across this W4-1770 in Richmond, VA. He had it rebuilt and the rebuilder used the wrong rings. He repowered his stump grinder with a Vanguard and was selling this engine for parts. Fresh rebuilt engines like these sell for $3-5k with running used ones going for $1500-2500. So I set out on a 350 mile trip one way to save $1500. 5:45 to get there 30 minutes to look it over and load and 6:15 back and $100 in gas for a 12.5 hour day.
This time I will get it running!
This time I will get it running!
Best of luck!!!!!!
4seasons
ArboristSite Guru
Tearing down this W4-1770, I noticed how much cleaner it is compared to the VH4D that was on my skid steer. Check out the carbon deposits on the intake ports. Also the amount of pitting on the VH4D compared to the W4.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
4seasons
ArboristSite Guru
The W4 is rated at 35 HP and the VH is 30. The only difference I can find is in the head. It may run a little higher compression but it was probably designed for better flow. You have to look close to see the little bumps over the valves.
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Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
4seasons
ArboristSite Guru
I did the jug swap using a technique that saves me from pulling the engine, oil pan and draining the oil. I will do an oil change after a break in period, but I don't have any more money to waste on this thing now. I also used a 25¢ tool to pull the valves, lap them and reinstall.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
4seasons
ArboristSite Guru
The jug swap I mentioned above works like this:
First remove the air ducts and manifold to access the 6 nuts/studs that hold the jug on. After pulled the jug pack the holes in the block with some rags so that you can clean the gasket surface without getting trash in the block. Then when you are ready to reinstall use a ring compressor and install the pistons from the bottom of the jug. Leave the wrist pins out and the holes for the pins sticking out of the bottom. Go ahead and install the inner wrist pins retainer clips. Next rotate the crank so that one rod is up and the other down. If using a paper/felt gasket put it on now. Then with a helper's assistance hold the jug over the rod and install a wrist pin. A 1/2 inch socket can help push the pin into position. Install the outer retainer clip. Then lower the jug half way and turn the crank till the rods are both at half stroke. Install the other wrist pin and clip. If using an RTV sealant apply it next. Then put the jug in place and torque the nuts down. Now you can adjust the valves and put everything back together. I hope this guide helps someone.
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
First remove the air ducts and manifold to access the 6 nuts/studs that hold the jug on. After pulled the jug pack the holes in the block with some rags so that you can clean the gasket surface without getting trash in the block. Then when you are ready to reinstall use a ring compressor and install the pistons from the bottom of the jug. Leave the wrist pins out and the holes for the pins sticking out of the bottom. Go ahead and install the inner wrist pins retainer clips. Next rotate the crank so that one rod is up and the other down. If using a paper/felt gasket put it on now. Then with a helper's assistance hold the jug over the rod and install a wrist pin. A 1/2 inch socket can help push the pin into position. Install the outer retainer clip. Then lower the jug half way and turn the crank till the rods are both at half stroke. Install the other wrist pin and clip. If using an RTV sealant apply it next. Then put the jug in place and torque the nuts down. Now you can adjust the valves and put everything back together. I hope this guide helps someone.
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4seasons
ArboristSite Guru
IT ALIVE! WAAAA HAAA HAAA HAAAAAAAAA!
I feel like a mad scientist bringing this monster to life. As soon as I started it I got to work on fixing my yard. I moved a bunch of dirt and went to scoop up some rock when I ran out of gas. Too bad I spent all my money getting it running. Now I have to wait for a paycheck before I can afford some gas.
I feel like a mad scientist bringing this monster to life. As soon as I started it I got to work on fixing my yard. I moved a bunch of dirt and went to scoop up some rock when I ran out of gas. Too bad I spent all my money getting it running. Now I have to wait for a paycheck before I can afford some gas.
Impressive amount of perseverance and determination. I hope you get every dime worth of your time and money out of it. Work her hard!
