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New to me homie

Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by Brent Adams, Jan 4, 2019.

  1. Brent Adams

    Brent Adams ArboristSite Member

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    New on the site. Hope this is the right forum. Dad gave me an old XL2 auto two trigger top handle with a 14" bar at Christmas. He kitted the carb and said it ran fine. After usimg it a little, I realized it does not run fine. The more you run it, the worse it gets. Stumbles, loads up, wont idle. Sometimes smokes badly. Figured that last one was the oiler system, as ive heard they can give problems. Seems to be an older unit. Had points. Has been converted to an aftermarket electronic breakerless system. Serial number has been rubbed off the tag, so not sure if its stamped anywhere else.
    Anyhow, took it apart tonight. Line from oiler pickup to pump is rotten. Replaced that. Replaced vent? Line back to tank. Duckbill valve is missing. Any idea where those can be gotten?
    Clutch was acting funny, so I took the sprocket and drum off. Not only is the sprocket and inside of drum worn, but the needle bearing fell apart, and I'm seeing some wear on the crank. Looked in the plug hole and exhaust port. Cylinder doesnt look scored. Very smooth. Ring might be worn. Haven't checked compression. Crank has a little side to side movement. Not sure if it should. May need a crank, crank seals, etc. Not sure its worth the trouble.
    Love the balance of this saw and the double triggers are great!
    Just wondering how hard and how expensive parts are. Thanks for reading. Sorry this is long winded.
     
  2. a. palmer jr.

    a. palmer jr. Tree Freak

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    Parts are very cheap and plentiful for this saw. It will need new fuel lines, oil lines and a duckbill valve on the end of the pulse line just below the oil cap. If the valve is missing that is the cause of the bad running and smoke. It also keeps the saw from oiling the chain. The duckbill valves are available on ebay but not cheap anymore. Sprockets and stuff like that aren't too expensive, good saw to start with, maybe learn a bit...
     
  3. Brent Adams

    Brent Adams ArboristSite Member

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    Thanks for the reply. Actually have been working on saws for awhile, just never had one of these.
    Got a Mac PM1010S, PM700, CS4400 Echo, 009L Stihl, Sears badged Poulan 3400, Husky 455 rancher, Stihl 661.
    Dad has a runner Homie super 2 auto, EZ automatic, 2 Mac 1010S, another Stihl 009L, MS290, another red Poulan 3400, and probably some more I cant remember.

    I'll see if I can round up the duckbill valve. Already replaced the lines for the oiler. Afraid if I buy a sprocket with the worn crank it'll just tear up the new bearing.
    Wondering if I can find another saw and maybe use this one for parts or vice versa.
     
  4. a. palmer jr.

    a. palmer jr. Tree Freak

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    I've had several of those saws over the years, got one right now that a friend gave me, in a box. I noticed it needs the db valve also. I'm gonna look through my used parts and see if I can find a valve sticking out of an old Homelite fuel tank and use it. The Homelite project will not be on the front burner however, have several other saws that I need to fix first...
     
  5. a. palmer jr.

    a. palmer jr. Tree Freak

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    How bad is the crank damaged? You might get by with just a used sprocket with the bearing already in it..
     
  6. Brent Adams

    Brent Adams ArboristSite Member

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    Was wondering about that. Its worn down enough that I can hang a fingernail on the lip next to where the circlip goes. If it would last awhile, I would try it.
     
  7. Bobby Kirbos

    Bobby Kirbos Scrounger of Cellulose Based BTUs

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    Welcome to AS, and......

    :thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpictures:
     
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  8. undee70ss

    undee70ss Homelite nut

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    I would try it, use hi temp grease on sprocket bearing.
     
  9. undee70ss

    undee70ss Homelite nut

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    You must have duckbill in oil tank, or it will suck bar oil into crankcase and smoke real bad. See pic for what it is supposed to look like.
     

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  10. Brent Adams

    Brent Adams ArboristSite Member

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    Ok, got two duckbills on the way, cause the ones missing from the gas tank too. I noticed in the pic that yours has a little brass sleeve it goes over. I'm missing that too. Guessimg the valve wont go ober the fuel line. Anything special about that, or can I just used a little piece of metal tubing?
    Hoping I might still find a crank and clutch drum. Checked with Leon's. He has one, but not sure it'll work for this saw.

    Bobby, I aint the most tech savvy, so pics are a little beyond my capabilities yet.
     
  11. a. palmer jr.

    a. palmer jr. Tree Freak

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  12. undee70ss

    undee70ss Homelite nut

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    The connector for the duckbill in the oil tank, is a bronze porous tube. Usually when missing, its in the bottom of the oil tank. Clean the tank real good with some solvent and empty it through a rag and you will usually find it.
     
  13. undee70ss

    undee70ss Homelite nut

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    The way the oiler works, crankcase pressurizes the oil tank. When saw is shut off pressure is bled back to crankcase through porous tube. If you use a solid tube, it will keep oiling till pressure is relieved.
     
  14. a. palmer jr.

    a. palmer jr. Tree Freak

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  15. a. palmer jr.

    a. palmer jr. Tree Freak

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    If you can't find the bronze sleeve you can use a piece of tubing from a ball point pen in a pinch. Sometimes it would tend to over-oil but sometimes not. You can always loosen the oil cap when you're finished cutting to relieve the pressure. On some of the later saws they didn't use the bronze sleeve, they used an aluminum one with a very small hole in it.
     
  16. Okie

    Okie Addicted to ArboristSite

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    AND when I see a chainsaw smoking that seems excessive I dump the bar oil out of the tank and make a test run.

    This dumping out the bar oil and test running gives you a hint that the engine is burning bar oil if the smoke level reduces. (and I've seen some of the old model Remington chainsaws still run and cut ok and burn little bit of bar oil. (even with new check valve installed)

    Homie recommends to not fill the oil level ABOVE the duckbill, but not always possible and with a good duckbill check valve they usually operate ok.

    I've found good complete power heads for them Homies cheap. Best to have some salvage Homies around for parts because they can nickle and dime you to where you have more in one than they are worth if buying new parts.
    Have to be careful because lots of different versions of those that appear same on outside but internal parts not quite interchange.

    Nice little light weight trim saws, FOR OCCASSIONAL USE ONLY.
     
  17. a. palmer jr.

    a. palmer jr. Tree Freak

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    One thing about those little XL saws, Homelite made thousands of them so it's hard to not find them in a flea market or yard sale around here..Around $5 is the going price...
     
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  18. Brent Adams

    Brent Adams ArboristSite Member

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    Well, I dumped the oil out of the bar oil tank back into the gallon jug it came from, so if the brass piece was in there, it's now in the jug.
     
  19. a. palmer jr.

    a. palmer jr. Tree Freak

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    I stopped at the mower shop today and got a couple of the duckbill valves for when I rebuild the XL, probably in the Spring....got plenty to do now..
     
  20. a. palmer jr.

    a. palmer jr. Tree Freak

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    I'm betting it's still stuck to the bottom of the oil tank, they get kinda gooey in that mess...
     

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