New to me Stihl 038AV Super, photos and a few questions

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Mad Professor said:
Try using two (or three) of the same copper washers under the plug sealing washer. If that works store some extras with your spare spark plugs.
Click to expand...

may be worth trying. What i tried was one of theseflat copper washers
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14-mm-cop...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
it was too thin.
I can find 1.5mm and 2mm flat copper sealing washers, like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10pcs-20m...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
or in aluminium http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium...var=570158218423&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

or I can find the toroidal/tube crush washers like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-14MM...27-/270974594214?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 and this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14mm-Copp...pk-/291560923350?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

Those may be too large on the od to fit in the counterbore though, which is annoying as they'd have much more squishiness and ability to seal my mess.

I originally went for the thin washers as i didn't want to have the plug not reach down to the chamber so far, but needs must and a seal is important, hmm I might try the flat 2mm washers. I wonder about puling the sealing washer on the plug off, using the thick flt washer and a smear of gasket compound. various things to try, just got to decide which to try first and buy some more washers.
 
LondonNeil said:
Which was it? I may need to go they route yet, although hopefully not. To upgrade to the Magnum means removing some material from the cylinder doesn't it? Something is needed to get the bolt holes to line up with the crank case? Anyway that is a different thread in the future..... For now I'll stick to trying to fix this spark plug hole.
Click to expand...
I'm not sure as mine was a Magnum before I got the new cylinder kit. You could also buy a kit that wasn't a Magnum which is what I would have done in your case.
 
If those copper sealing washers will fit the O.D. they might be best. Otherwise I'd stack several of the thinner copper washers.

If you had a cutter with a 14mm pilot you might be able to cut down the buggered up surface then use the copper washers.

Any machinist friends?
 
Just a suggestion @LondonNeil ..

Why don't you order a 52mm farmertec kit, see how it goes they are cheap as chips in the UK. (I would however recommend a set of caber rings) Then send your super cylinder to get TIG welded and re-tapped? A good machinist will be able to do this without screwing up the cylinder.

Then you can see how both compare?
 
I think possibly there are rim sprockets available for the 038, I don't think mine has one but the 028 I had did. You have to buy more than the sprocket, I think it comes in a conversion kit which contains another gear or two, been awhile since I bought one but I do remember the little chrome star cover is different on the rim kit.
 
a. palmer jr. said:
I think possibly there are rim sprockets available for the 038, I don't think mine has one but the 028 I had did. You have to buy more than the sprocket, I think it comes in a conversion kit which contains another gear or two, been awhile since I bought one but I do remember the little chrome star cover is different on the rim kit.
Click to expand...
Yep mine is a bit worn, am also waiting for a new oem outer retaining washer to come through the post. Gonna keep my eye out for an OEM clutch drum with a rim sprocket. They are few and far between in the UK. This is gonna be a slow build...
 
Yeah, I kinda noticed the grooves in the sprocket. I don't remember where I bought the rim for my 028, might have been local but I'll bet ebay is where I got it. I buy most of my saw stuff from ebay, the parts are cheaper and they have stuff you can't find otherwise.
 
cheers. I've found and ordered some crush washers with 20mm OD, and have also ordered some 1.5mm thick flat washers so I'll have both to try. Dad has found a tube of red gasket compound that he used recently and that is on its way when he visits. I'm hopeful that a smear of gasket compound and one or other of the washers will seal things up. Which will be great. I'm trying not to spend loads on this saw as I don't need to use it much, as I said at the start, I burn a couple of cords a year but get all my wood from a tree guy who has cut it all down to chunks/logs that are easily picked up and put on a truck (or in the boot of my car in my case) so most of my cutting is done with just an ickle ms180 to buck some of the longer, thinner bits to stove size. I do however get a few bigger rounds that need shortening or just plain ugly lumps that need noodling and this is where the 038 is wanted. It will only get a few tanks of fuel each year, so I picked this saw up, took a punt on one on ebay, and hopefully can iron out the few issues with it cheaply and then I'll be happy. If I find I can't fix this cylinder then I'll weigh up a better insert, or machining, or an aftermarket p and c (I'd probably do the suggested farmetec, meteor, caber p,c and rings combo, gasket delete, muffler open up and tune). However before I go that way, Let's see if ether of the 2 x £3.49 packets of washers and a smear of Hylomar can fix this problem...and allow me to move on to the next! Thinking back to when i first got the saw, I've got the right chain now so I'm hoping it will cut properly, the new clutch drum is needed before i can try though. Don't do enough cutting to warrant a rim conversion or else I would. I'm also hoping sealing this leak, a clean (new) air filter and a bit of a tune will fix the slight tendency it showed to stall at idle occasionally, and given how poorly the plug was sealing I may even notice a bit more oomph. However if the idle problem is still there I may have more work to do to find the next problem, fingers crossed that's not the case.

Basically what I'm saying is, although buying this saw wasn't strictly necessary and shows some CAD tendency, I do not have it yet and do not intend to spend money tuning the saw beyond my needs, fixing it cheaply is all I want for now. In the future? Well, who knows? ;)
 
Kinda warm today but I had a couple of truckloads of wood to cut up and split so I got the 038 out to see how it would do. Wood wasn't quite big enough to really test it, biggest about 20" across but it handled without working up a sweat (the saw), I worked up plenty of sweat. Having checked it I gassed up my other favorite saw, my 346XP and it buzzed through the wood equally as well. I sometimes sell my saws but wife says I should keep these two..
 
I just had an idea, well dad and I bounced ideas and we got it. The cylinder is aluminium isn't it? We have access to a small lathe and could turn an alu washer to snugly fit the counter bore. We also have some aluminium brazing rods so it should be possible to braze/solder the washer in place with just a blow torch. This would give a flat surface for the plug and no need for gasket compound, albeit with a mm or 2 deeper hole.
Anyone see anything I've over looked?
 
I've used those aluminum rods for many things on saw's. Use the MAPP gas as it gets hotter faster.
Aluminum melts at about 1250 degrees F the rods melt at 700-750 F.
Biggest thing is clean, sand the area for a good bond.
If you have access to router bits you can use them in a drill press to cut flat surface for plug.
Get one with bearing on bottom to insert into hole where plug goes.
Get a tap and screw into spark plug hole, put tap shank while it's in engine into drill press chuck for alignment then
clamp down on saw to hold everything stable. Open drill chuck and raise then insert flat bottom router bit and then lower and mill flat surface for spark plug.
Keep good vacuum nozzle by the cutter while cutting.
You can screw in tap before brazing the aluminum onto cylinder.
Braze right around tap as to keep inside clean. Did I say clean the surface must be really clean sand it up.
Many YouTube videos on those rods.
 

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