Nik's Poulan Thread

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s sidewall said:
Did you prime it with something that will stick to magnesium and aluminum? Also did you bake the paint any? I baked the paint on my 5200 before I applied clear coat.

Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk
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I did use a primer designed for aluminum, but not to sure it helped.
Wouldnt say I baked it, but I did try to heat it up with my heat gun before and after I put each coat down but it was pretty cool out so may not have been enough. All in all I think it looks good which is all I was after as I know it ain't gonna last forever looking that good.
 
hotshot said:
It’s not likely that the seal lip pulls tighter to the shaft under vacuum.

No, the last seal/o-ring comment was to Corey, sorry about the thread confusion, I just added/edited his name on it...

Yep, the aftermarket Oregon 32790X is the spur drive type for your 3700. If I remember correctly, the rim drive type is 28187X using a 3/8“-7T rim 68210. I like the rim drives best, but others prefer the spur, both work fine.
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Never had a saw with rim drive, but principle behind it seems sound so I looked for the parts and can only find the 68210. Nothing for 28187x, seems to be unobtainium.

Anybody have a spare they'd be willing to sell?

If I'm gonna throw on a new drive might as well grab a new bar and chain as well. Thinking a 20", maybe a 24' with a semi chisel chain or would I be better off with a skip chain? Typically anything I'm cutting needing a bar that big will be softwood, but I have run up against some hardwood in that range. I've been using my CS400 with a 16" bar to cut the bigger hardwood just because the chain on the 3700 just doesnt seem to like hardwood, even with just an 18" bar on it.
 
Big time neglect. Piston survived unmetered air fairly well. And why can't folks tightened up a loose muffler, it's not science. I believe that saw will turn out to be a good runner.
Thin ring?
Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk
Just noticed the threads are stripped out of the head. Easy fix for ya. Those bolts were loose along time to do that.
 
s sidewall said:
Big time neglect. Piston survived unmetered air fairly well. And why can't folks tightened up a loose muffler, it's not science. I believe that saw will turn out to be a good runner.
Thin ring?
Steve from my moto g(7) play using Tapatalk
Just noticed the threads are stripped out of the head. Easy fix for ya. Those bolts were loose along time to do that.
Click to expand...

Thick ring as normal in these. They used the 3450 piston. Same as 330 too.

Not stripped. They tighten right back up. But sure does look like it in the pic.
 
banshee1 said:
Never had a saw with rim drive, but principle behind it seems sound so I looked for the parts and can only find the 68210. Nothing for 28187x, seems to be unobtainium.

Anybody have a spare they'd be willing to sell?

If I'm gonna throw on a new drive might as well grab a new bar and chain as well. Thinking a 20", maybe a 24' with a semi chisel chain or would I be better off with a skip chain? Typically anything I'm cutting needing a bar that big will be softwood, but I have run up against some hardwood in that range. I've been using my CS400 with a 16" bar to cut the bigger hardwood just because the chain on the 3700 just doesnt seem to like hardwood, even with just an 18" bar on it.
Click to expand...
I like a 24" with skip, that being said the 3700 should handle hard wood and a 18" with ease? Something must need attention.
 
Finished with the 3400 I found in my shed, (was a parts donor). New seals ,carburetor kit,and lines.
It appears to be a 81' model, it has a hole for the adjustable oiler but there is no screw for adjustment.
Seems to rev up very nicely with my sneaky muffler mod, makes it a little buck tooth muffler cover.20200927_123604.jpg20200927_123624.jpg20200927_123704.jpg20200927_123652.jpg20200927_123644.jpg
 
Did the first bit of real cutting in awhile. Had 5 trees to bring down at my in-laws. Friend dropped 4 of the 5 while I pulled with a safety line to my truck. I helped cut up stuff afterwards.

The 3700 continues to perform great. No issues at all. I do want to see about potentially getting a stihl bar to husky bar mount adapter. I have a 16” bar on my 041 and I think I’m gonna retire that saw. I just don’t need it. It’s cool but the 3700 and husky 372 are just way way better. Still would like to find a nice older poulan top handle (anyone have a runner they wanna sell?) and maybe a 3400.
 
One question about my 3700. On warm up it surges some but once warmed up it seems to be perfectly fine. Could this indicate a leaky seal? I have them to install but never did yet. I did do base gasket delete so I’m worried my Hondabond may be leaky.
 
EngineNoO9 said:
One question about my 3700. On warm up it surges some but once warmed up it seems to be perfectly fine. Could this indicate a leaky seal? I have them to install but never did yet. I did do base gasket delete so I’m worried my Hondabond may be leaky.
Click to expand...

I replaced the seals in my older 3400 and it will still do a little bit of surge till its warmed up for a second. I think the intake manifold is prone to fuel puddling, I can tune the surge out but but it will be pig rich with the bar facing the ground at idle, I just let it warm up a bit . As long as it restarts easily I know I'm in the ballpark.
But seals are easy to do and good insurance .
 
It goes away when it’s warm which is why I haven’t been concerned. It cuts great when warmed and restarts and starts easily. Just curious if I need to dig into it.
 
Maintenance supervisor said:
I like a 24" with skip, that being said the 3700 should handle hard wood and a 18" with ease? Something must need attention.
Click to expand...
My tune could be off a little or the oil I'm using just sucks. When I checked the plug after the reassemble and retune it was grey. Haven't used the saw since to adjust the tune. Normally I'll have my son adjust the screws while I'm cutting, but that's always with saws that have kick back devices and it allows me to tune the saw quicker. I'm more then capable of handling the 3700, but **** happens and I wont take chances.

As soon as I get a new bar and chain I'm gonna adjust the tune some more.
 
With good chain I’ve had mine buried with a 20” bar in a huge 36” red oak. It’ll cut fine as long as it’s oiling fine. Early on before I replaced the auto oiler I had issues with it dulling the chain quickly. Replaced the diaphragm and no issues since.
 
EngineNoO9 said:
With good chain I’ve had mine buried with a 20” bar in a huge 36” red oak. It’ll cut fine as long as it’s oiling fine. Early on before I replaced the auto oiler I had issues with it dulling the chain quickly. Replaced the diaphragm and no issues since.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I need to do some measuring on how much bar oil I use on a tank of fuel. Out of habit when using the 3700 I will manually oil the chain every few cuts just because.
 
Todd Loosli said:
You are correct about finding a rim drive for the 3400 ect. I was a pig and bought every one that I saw for the last 3 years. I have them on every saw i have. I think they are great and my original saw had one, if I see one I'll let it go.
Click to expand...
I would appreciate it. Baileys has the rims, but no hubs.
 

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