Not another 346XP!

[mdavlee]

Glad I'm not the only 346 hater out there. 550 FTW

 

[sunfish]

Glad I'm not the only 346 hater out there. 550 FTW

Just you & one other guy, eh...

 

[mdavlee]

Just you & one other guy, eh... [emoji23]

I want to build one with a 2 piece head and maybe I'll like it 3 cuts at a time.

 

[cuttinties]

I want to build one with a 2 piece head and maybe I'll like it 3 cuts at a time.

You'll have to use the OE top end the NE is too big for 3 cube [emoji41]

 

[mdavlee]

You'll have to use the OE top end the NE is too big for 3 cube [emoji41]

Some places went to 3.1 for the 346. I don't see me competing in the big time stuff that's 3.0

 

[sunfish]

If I remember correct, mastermind brought up this issue awhile ago, and old-cat had a thread about it also.
I cant remember all the details but I thought mastermind used the 346 intake because the 357 intake doesnt fit that well.

The 357 intake fits just fine, there's no difference in how it fits. It's just the ID that is different.

 

[Tor R]

The 357 intake fits just fine, there's no difference in how it fits. It's just the ID that is different.

okey, its not that long time since I modded my JRed 2147, the 346 intake was the one who fit the intake to the cylinder best, not perfect but slightly better then the 357 intake.
I also skipped the ring in the 346 intake.

Next time I will spend more time with the 357 intake and grind it to fit better.
It may not mather at all, but when I first have done all the work by porting it, I also want the muffler and intake to fit 100%.

 

[old-cat]

okey, its not that long time since I modded my JRed 2147, the 346 intake was the one who fit the intake to the cylinder best, not perfect but slightly better then the 357 intake.
I also skipped the ring in the 346 intake.

Next time I will spend more time with the 357 intake and grind it to fit better.
It may not mather at all, but when I first have done all the work by porting it, I also want the muffler and intake to fit 100%.

You can't enlarge the 357 boot to match the 346 intake port, there won't be any boot left! You CAN enlarge the carb end of the 346 boot. Then use a STIHL 036 ring.

 

[SawTroll]

You can't enlarge the 357 boot to match the 346 intake port, there won't be any boot left! You CAN enlarge the carb end of the 346 boot. Then use a STIHL 036 ring.

What ring are you referring too?

 

[old-cat]

What ring are you referring too?

The 357 boot has a plastic ring under the carb in the boot. The 346 has a brass cylinder thingy. I take out that brass thingy and use the STIHL ring that most all STIHL saws have in the boot.

 

[SawTroll]

The 357 boot has a plastic ring under the carb in the boot. The 346 has a brass cylinder thingy. I take out that brass thingy and use the STIHL ring that most all STIHL saws have in the boot.

...and the gain is???

 

[old-cat]

...and the gain is???

The gain is more air flow capacity. Higher rpms and more flow capacity in the other ports equals faster and faster cutting.
Little by little, I learn how to do it!

 

[Edwad]

Brad just built me this saw as described!! It is an absolute monster! Brad is the best saw porter and a great honest guy!!

 

[sunfish]

Edwad, didn't know this was your saw. cool man! It does look fast!

Be careful calling Brad ''the best porter''. Might start a big fight here.

 

[Edwad]

Edwad, didn't know this was your saw. cool man! It does look fast!

Be careful calling Brad ''the best porter''. Might start a big fight here.

The one Brad did for me is like the one he has on here.

 

[LegDeLimber]

The challenge still remains for me to get the carb end of the boot enlarged NEATLY. The one I did seemed to work good but it was more sloppy than I like.

Double cut bur works pretty well.

Ditto on the double cut burr, but easy to get a low spot where you don't want one.
Try a sanding drum and just remember to keep the revs down.
You don't want it to get hot enough that the boot material starts gumming up the sandpaper.
Then you'll get lumpy spots and make a mess of of the boot.

And you have a larger radius , so makes it a little easier to make things nice and smooth.
Plus keep the shape resembling the rest of the intake.

 

[old-cat]

Ditto on the double cut burr, but easy to get a low spot where you don't want one.
Try a sanding drum and just remember to keep the revs down.
You don't want it to get hot enough that the boot material starts gumming up the sandpaper.
Then you'll get lumpy spots and make a mess of of the boot.

And you have a larger radius , so makes it a little easier to make things nice and smooth.
Plus keep the shape resembling the rest of the intake.

The sanding drum, course and VERY slow would probably work. It would also have to be the right diameter, whatever that is?

A tool I don't have.

 

[LegDeLimber]

How about wrapping a strip of sandpaper around a stick or something likea sharpie marker? Then use it in a filing motion.
Heck, I've got a roll of 80 grit here that has a thick stiff paper back
and could just be rolled kinda like a cigar and then used in the filling method.
How about rod that fits in your drill chuck and then tape the end of the sandpaper
to it and roll on enough to make your sanding tool.
You don't really have to slot the rod, if you can geta good tight wrap started
and have enough turns to help keep it snugged.
just dont forget and wrap it in the wrong direction.
some

 

[blsnelling]

I use a double cut burr to remove rubber. It works well and leaves a good finish.

 

[glock37]

I use a double cut burr to remove rubber. It works well and leaves a good finish.

Any Progress on the Solo Twin Yet Brad ?