Novel way of ripping boards?

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This method has been used for decades by many, especially those in 3rd world countries. The biggest difference...most others I've seen use this method used a MUCH larger saw such as the the 070 or 090. This guy is using WAY under powered saws with a 180 and 260.
 
This method has been used for decades by many, especially those in 3rd world countries. The biggest difference...most others I've seen use this method used a MUCH larger saw such as the the 070 or 090. This guy is using WAY under powered saws with a 180 and 260.
He is refining an old method, and getting the job done, and for that, I give him credit! I’ve done some of this on a smaller scale and had moderate success.
 
That is the way i have been cutting beams for years. I ripped several hundred feet of fencing that way. He had some pointers that could improve my system even better. I think it is a little bit of an art to do it well and from my $0.02 it takes constant practice to make really nice slabs. I try to make my slabs about an 1/8'' extra so they can be planed to prefect. Rare are they perfect, but nice. Thanks
 
This method has been used for decades by many, especially those in 3rd world countries. The biggest difference...most others I've seen use this method used a MUCH larger saw such as the the 070 or 090. This guy is using WAY under powered saws with a 180 and 260.

Thanks, Brad!

I think that's one of the pluses that he mentioned - having only 2 or three teeth engaged in the wood at any one time means that one can get away with using smaller saws, if that's all you have. Either way, it's not a bad method.

Mike
 
That is the way i have been cutting beams for years. I ripped several hundred feet of fencing that way. He had some pointers that could improve my system even better. I think it is a little bit of an art to do it well and from my $0.02 it takes constant practice to make really nice slabs. I try to make my slabs about an 1/8'' extra so they can be planed to prefect. Rare are they perfect, but nice. Thanks

So what would you recommend for freehand milling? What length bar and what techniques do you find are effective?
 
So what would you recommend for freehand milling? What length bar and what techniques do you find are effective?

I do not have much in the way of small saws. My smallest is a 24'' Husky 460. For most slabs I use a 30 to 36''. Not often do I bring about a 48'' bar. One thing for sure is the system is incredibly fast to anything else. For fencing that I have used it is just fine. Make your slabs then put your slabs on your table saw dog ear them and you are ready to seal and stain. If you need really fine interior type boards then you need to run them through the planer. There are a few thing that I have added such as a laser beam to more accurately keep me on track. I try to keep my bar closer to 45 degrees compared to some of the 90 degrees that is shown in the video. Making an accurate straight shallow cut to start is key. Thanks
 
I started like that too, but I didn't strive to make it successful like the guy in the video have. Interesting and pretty admiring I'd say, me myself I quickly concluded it was hopeless.

I'm kinda happy with how my Granberg mini mill is for practical and quick milling, it needs a little more than 50cc though and as I understand it this was he's (Maxi Gorov?) problem/sollution to that.
Not long nice fragments from this cut either but that has to do with the man - not the saw. A 70cc cheap hustle saw would do this nicely.
RIMG0043.JPG RIMG0047.JPG RIMG0050.JPG
 
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