Oil Adjustment Screw on my Partner 500

[Jeff Lary]

My recently revived 500 has an oil adj screw but if there are any marks as to more or less oil I dont see them. I counted turns and it went about 2 turnsor more each way.Which way should I turn the screw to get the most oil to the bar? I would think looking at the front of the saw the screw should be tured to the Left or Counter Clockwise? Thanks ,Jeff

 

[727sunset]

Congrats on staying with your saw and getting it running.
IIRC I believe my oil adjuster turns only about 90*.
Viewed straight on from the front you get max oil when it's turned CW, least oil when given 1/4 turn CCW from there.

 

[Woodplayer]

Hey Jeff good to see you got the 500 running.

On my saw I also can only turn it about 90 degrees, but it oils the most when turned fully counter clockwise for some reason.
The best way to confirm is to remove the bar/chain and cover then make your adjustment fully one way run the saw and watch the oil come out the orifice, then wipe down with a rag and turn the adjustment the other way and compare the flow rates.

 

[Jeff Lary]

Thats the way to make sure I guess.I will have to try that ,that way I can be sure.I posted another question at the old thread we were on a couple days ago but I dont think anyone is visiting that thread so I will ask here.
Where is the cheepest place either,.... (Online or at a shop )....to buy a bar and chain combo for my saws 20" .325 pitch 58 guage ? I priced a set yesterday at a shop in the area it was $70.00. I believe that would be an Oregon set.

 

[727sunset]

When shopping for bar and chains ensure you are comparing similar qualities vs the price. You've got a good saw so don't be afraid of buying decent quality parts.
Laminated bars will be more economical than ones with a replaceable sprocket nose.
My 500 came with an 18" bar in 325 and it worked ok. For limbing and cutting the firewood I have around here I soon realized a 16" bar was more than sufficient and would ease maneuverability. The 18 was replaced with a new 16 and noticeably improved the balance and handling. Over time there was a glitch however...
Irregardless of which bar, chain, type of wood or cutting condition was encountered, each day the oil hole in the bar was ALWAYS, half clogged. Long story short I converted to 3/8 chain (using same bar and similar type chain) and have never looked back.

Sounds like you have a shop locally. My advise is to prepare yourself by searching online (and thru AS sponsors) and learn the prices. Then ask your local dealer to mount a 20" bar and see if you like how it feels. You'll probably find it's more bar than necessary.
You may also want to consider getting a second chain and a new sprocket rim.
Enjoy your new saw.

 

[Jeff Lary]

When shopping for bar and chains ensure you are comparing similar qualities vs the price. You've got a good saw so don't be afraid of buying decent quality parts.
Laminated bars will be more economical than ones with a replaceable sprocket nose.
My 500 came with an 18" bar in 325 and it worked ok. For limbing and cutting the firewood I have around here I soon realized a 16" bar was more than sufficient and would ease maneuverability. The 18 was replaced with a new 16 and noticeably improved the balance and handling. Over time there was a glitch however...
Irregardless of which bar, chain, type of wood or cutting condition was encountered, each day the oil hole in the bar was ALWAYS, half clogged. Long story short I converted to 3/8 chain (using same bar and similar type chain) and have never looked back.

Sounds like you have a shop locally. My advise is to prepare yourself by searching online (and thru AS sponsors) and learn the prices. Then ask your local dealer to mount a 20" bar and see if you like how it feels. You'll probably find it's more bar than necessary.
You may also want to consider getting a second chain and a new sprocket rim.
Enjoy your new saw.

I appreciate the advice but I have been using 20"bars for 20 years I will never own any shorter than that.My first saw had a 16" and my first 5000 had one as well as soon as they wore out I replaced with 20".2 years ago I cut a Elm that was 49" on the butt and I wish I had borrowed a larger saw for that one. Much eaiser on my back when limbing and a 16" does little for me when I am cutting 30" pine and rock maple or yellow birch.I have since found some at baileys for $49.00 per combination set.I have about 8 or 12 local saw shops in my area I just wanted to know if it was any cheeper to order form an online company or drive 4 miles and what diffrence i price there might be.You are absoloutly right about comparing apples to apples though.My cousin is always doing just the oppsite. I will buy a set of Michilin 80,000 mile tires for $500 and he will say " hua I just bought 4 tires for $125.00 whay would you pay so much?"Some people just dont get it.