Older Husqvarna 61cc Bogging Problem

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Harley, not sure why a simple question has you so upset, but all you have to do is ignore a post like this if it upsets you so much. And did you ever stop to think there's not a lot of technical information to share? It's a fairly simple story.

1. Last year the dealer replaced the top end, saw ran fine.
2. This year it began to have a problem starting up, took several pulls and took about 2 minutes to warm up enough to take the gas, so back to the dealer.
3. They tuned it up (adjusted the carb is what they said) but it was still hard to start so I refused to take the saw from the shop.
4. They had their best tech look at it and he said it needed the ignition replaced.
5. Saw ran great for about two tanks of gas and then it stalled but would re-start on the first pull, run for about 10-15 seconds and stall. Didn't matter if I was cutting wood or just working the throttle without cutting.
6. Back to the dealer and left it there for 2 weeks, he called and said pick it up, we have no idea.

Then I sent a text to this forum, Harley got pissed, and here we are.
 
Harley, not sure why a simple question has you so upset, but all you have to do is ignore a post like this if it upsets you so much. And did you ever stop to think there's not a lot of technical information to share? It's a fairly simple story.

1. Last year the dealer replaced the top end, saw ran fine.
2. This year it began to have a problem starting up, took several pulls and took about 2 minutes to warm up enough to take the gas, so back to the dealer.
3. They tuned it up (adjusted the carb is what they said) but it was still hard to start so I refused to take the saw from the shop.
4. They had their best tech look at it and he said it needed the ignition replaced.
5. Saw ran great for about two tanks of gas and then it stalled but would re-start on the first pull, run for about 10-15 seconds and stall. Didn't matter if I was cutting wood or just working the throttle without cutting.
6. Back to the dealer and left it there for 2 weeks, he called and said pick it up, we have no idea.

Then I sent a text to this forum, Harley got pissed, and here we are.
Did they check tank vent and muffler screen. Start your saw, when it starts to act up, turn on it's side and open gas cap. If it clears up, tank vent. Plugged muffler screen, remove air filter and gas will be spitting out before stalling.
 
Harley, not sure why a simple question has you so upset, but all you have to do is ignore a post like this if it upsets you so much. And did you ever stop to think there's not a lot of technical information to share? It's a fairly simple story.

1. Last year the dealer replaced the top end, saw ran fine.
2. This year it began to have a problem starting up, took several pulls and took about 2 minutes to warm up enough to take the gas, so back to the dealer.
3. They tuned it up (adjusted the carb is what they said) but it was still hard to start so I refused to take the saw from the shop.
4. They had their best tech look at it and he said it needed the ignition replaced.
5. Saw ran great for about two tanks of gas and then it stalled but would re-start on the first pull, run for about 10-15 seconds and stall. Didn't matter if I was cutting wood or just working the throttle without cutting.
6. Back to the dealer and left it there for 2 weeks, he called and said pick it up, we have no idea.

Then I sent a text to this forum, Harley got pissed, and here we are.
Ok, you have both vented to each other, but nothing good will come from it. Let's all try to figure out your saw problem. Don't get me going, I can also be a real azz pain and regret it after it is over. Welcome to the site.
 
Robert. The problem lies within the fact that so many log in for the first time, pick the brains of the knowledgeable guys, (not me)then disappear without ever posting whatever the resolution to their problem may be. You’re not that guy, right?
 
I would bet my first child Fuel filter and carb is just gummed up. You can replace the fuel filter and rebuild the carb for peanuts, If you are uncomfortable rebuilding the carb bring it to a small engine mechanic with a case of beer and He will do you good.
 
I would bet my first child Fuel filter and carb is just gummed up. You can replace the fuel filter and rebuild the carb for peanuts, If you are uncomfortable rebuilding the carb bring it to a small engine mechanic with a case of beer and He will do you good.
Will re-build carbs for beer:givebeer:
 
I think some of you guys are wrapped a bit tight. Yeah, this is the first time I've posted anything on this site, and I may be asking a question that has been asked 100 times before. So what's this site for? Only the regulars who know everything about saws to come here to trade stories? I apologize for intruding on your party and will leave so you can carry on, and probably trash my comments. Thanks to those of you who tried to help, but I'll leave it in the hands of the dealer. Bye!
 
I think some of you guys are wrapped a bit tight. Yeah, this is the first time I've posted anything on this site, and I may be asking a question that has been asked 100 times before. So what's this site for? Only the regulars who know everything about saws to come here to trade stories? I apologize for intruding on your party and will leave so you can carry on, and probably trash my comments. Thanks to those of you who tried to help, but I'll leave it in the hands of the dealer. Bye!
Wait! Can I still re-build the carb?
 
I've got an old 162se husky, maintained by me since new in 1978. They can bog for several reasons, some mentioned here. Was the entire ignition replaced? The flywheel? The coil and plug wire? Plug wire boot on straight? Gas lines turn to mush over time. Was it replaced? The fuel filter itself replaced? What does "clean and tune the carb" mean - he didn't put a kit in it? The dang kits are only about $10. The chambers under the welch plugs in the carb can get crudded up, as well as the screens. You don't check that unless you've got replacement screens and plugs. If it's plugging up in there it will bog. The pumping diaphragm will get stiff over 20 years or so. Replaced? The inlet needle top and the fork linkage between the needle and inlet diaphragm get worn with use and vibration. Replaced? The tip of the needle also gets worn. So it will bog or run lousy for any of these reasons. If somebody got overzealous with the H and L adjustments on the carb, the needles and seats could be screwed up. New replacement carbs are much cheaper than what you dumped into it so far. Bogging, losing power and rpm, throttle unresponsive is usually either from lack of gas or lack of spark, at the right time. You might print this and take it to your first dealer and ask him what he really did.
 
I've got an old 162se husky, maintained by me since new in 1978. They can bog for several reasons, some mentioned here. Was the entire ignition replaced? The flywheel? The coil and plug wire? Plug wire boot on straight? Gas lines turn to mush over time. Was it replaced? The fuel filter itself replaced? What does "clean and tune the carb" mean - he didn't put a kit in it? The dang kits are only about $10. The chambers under the welch plugs in the carb can get crudded up, as well as the screens. You don't check that unless you've got replacement screens and plugs. If it's plugging up in there it will bog. The pumping diaphragm will get stiff over 20 years or so. Replaced? The inlet needle top and the fork linkage between the needle and inlet diaphragm get worn with use and vibration. Replaced? The tip of the needle also gets worn. So it will bog or run lousy for any of these reasons. If somebody got overzealous with the H and L adjustments on the carb, the needles and seats could be screwed up. New replacement carbs are much cheaper than what you dumped into it so far. Bogging, losing power and rpm, throttle unresponsive is usually either from lack of gas or lack of spark, at the right time. You might print this and take it to your first dealer and ask him what he really did.
Yup, print this and take it in to him. If you want to work on your own **** moving forward.
 
Too funny. To be fair, you guys were a tad ruff on him.

So what's this site for?

It's still a good resource, even if you don't post. Some of these guys are saw gurus and have posted books of info here. Try searching the site with google. I learned how to port my saw, mod the muffler, upgrade the piston, and increase the comp before posting.
 
I think some of you guys are wrapped a bit tight. Yeah, this is the first time I've posted anything on this site, and I may be asking a question that has been asked 100 times before. So what's this site for? Only the regulars who know everything about saws to come here to trade stories? I apologize for intruding on your party and will leave so you can carry on, and probably trash my comments. Thanks to those of you who tried to help, but I'll leave it in the hands of the dealer. Bye!

Your loss, seriously
 

"I have an older Husqvarna 61cc that ran great for years. Last year I loaned it out to a "friend" who ran it without oil in the gas and fried the top end. " {quote from the O.P.}

I had a brother-in-law drop off an old concrete saw for me to "put a rope and a new spark plug in" .

I put the rope in the old girl, even though it was obvious that it was in horrendous shape. With the new rope in, pulling the rope, it had no compression, and you could hear the bearings roaring. So I stopped there.

When my BIL and his partner came buy to get the saw, they asked me how it ran. When I told them that it would never run, they got made, took it out to the parking lot in dis-belief, and pulled on it for an hour, spraying starting fluid, cussing me, blaming me for tearing up their $1,200 concrete saw......

So I am kind of leery of folks coming along, looking for a list of folks to blame or get mad at.
 

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