Olympyk, Olympic, Oleo Mac, Emak, Efco, Blitz, Folux, Spartan, Spartacus thread

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I got a 254 Olympic from my wifes uncle with low use thats for sale in the classifieds.It has alot of very good parts on it and runs good to.
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Informed Friday that the "old" style 152 cylinders are being replaced with a different version. The new one will have transfer covers. Never done a mod, so hard for me to speculate how that will affect the possibilities. Different plug also.
 
never seen a tillotson bar....


Thats an old style Total Super bar. [ Tilton Super Bar] They were prtetty common on Olympics of that era.

Whoops...lol...my eye glasses failed me on that on...but at least you brought it to my attention so i could have a laugh!!
 
Informed Friday that the "old" style 152 cylinders are being replaced with a different version. The new one will have transfer covers. Never done a mod, so hard for me to speculate how that will affect the possibilities. Different plug also.

Id like to hear more about this.....when will this happen and I assume old efco 152's can still be outfitted with the new if its better...but I doubt that it will be....Only reason to do this would be for cheaper manufacturing...I would think..
Husky has been doing it for yrs so we will see.
 
Id like to hear more about this.....when will this happen and I assume old efco 152's can still be outfitted with the new if its better...but I doubt that it will be....Only reason to do this would be for cheaper manufacturing...I would think..
Husky has been doing it for yrs so we will see.

AFAIK its a running change, and like you I doubt its for the better. Posting the actual info sheet may be a no no, only one way to find that out for sure. Also a mod to the handle on the 156, 162, 165 handle tank assembly, they are installing a "wear" piece to take the abuse from the chain if thrown. Again the new handles are going in as stock is depleted.
 
does anyone know where to find the tool used to pull the oiler assembly out of a 251, 251B, 252, 254, 261, 264, 945 or any of the older oly's. i even went to a fastener store and tried to match the threads on the adjusting screw and they couldn't match the threads. the shop manual says you take out the adjusting screw and screw in the "tool" and just pull the oiler out. i tried this with a peice of dowl rod and it wouldn't budge. this isn't a "special-made" thread i wouldn't think. anyone got any leads?
also, tried to take the adjusting screw out of a parts saw and the entire oiler assembly just turned with the screw. any hints or workarounds?

anyone got any ideas on the above?
 
Informed Friday that the "old" style 152 cylinders are being replaced with a different version. The new one will have transfer covers. Never done a mod, so hard for me to speculate how that will affect the possibilities. Different plug also.

147 cyl is that way already.
 
okay here is an apparently simple procedure that's got me stumped.
i'm trying to remove the c-clip from the starter pawl on the flywheel on an Oly 252 (acquired from an AS member, steve) so i can remove the flywheel and fool with the points. i can't get the dam thing off. already spent couple of hours trying and decided to back off and think about it. i've pulled many c-clips in my time but have never pulled one like this. it has nothing on the back side to hook a screwdriver or other device into to pull. it apparently requires a special tool, similar to needle nose pliers except they open when you close the handles, to hook into the somewhat circular opening to spread the clip enough to push it off the shaft. i've tried screwdrivers, applying a hammer on the end of a drift, and tried forcing a pointed device along the back side to pry it off.
alas, nothing has worked so far. need some help for this embarassing problem. :help:
 
You need a pair of Circlip Pliers, or you could loosen the flywheel nut until it's level with the end of the crankshaft , hold the saw by the flywheel, tap the crankshaft with a brass hammer.
It should pop off, if it's really tight pour some hot water over the flywheel before tapping it.
 
Oly 252 ignition system

finally got the flywheel off thanks to guidance from gmax. now, on to other issues.
i checked continuity on the points last night and they appear to be okay. naturally i will take a points file to them and clean them up before buttoning everything back up. i have two issues i need to resolve.
1. i have an electronic VOM. is there any way to check the condenser and coil to indicate whether they are alive or dead?

2. i don't have a dial indicator and really don't want to spring for one. i have printed out a degree wheel and want to use that. i am looking for verification as to whether my conversion from vertical (linear) measurements to degrees is correct.

Assuming:
engine stroke - 32mm
ignition timing - 2.2mm BTDC

Conversion:
(2.2/32) x 180 = 12.375 degrees BTDC​
is this correct?
thanks
 
anyone got any ideas on the above?

Dont know if I`m way off the mark here, but some of the older ALPINA saws [also Italian] have both coarse &fine pitch metric fasteners. Mostly the common metric bolts etc. are coarse pitch. could it be your oil pump hole is the fine pitch thread. Even here in FRANCE where nuts & bolts have all ways been metric, the fine pitch are VERY difficult to source. Do you have access to cycle thread data? that is a fine thread & although imperial is very close to metric sizes, Also BA threading is a similar fine pitch.
 
Jerry, I'm not sure on converting to degrees, I'm sure someone can help with that, but I use the depth measurement on a cheap digital caliper down the bore hole.

$20 or so will get a cheap digital 6" at Menards, TSC, etc., and you'll find it handy a lot more places. Just make sure it has the "tail" coming out of the end, that's what you use for depth measurement, and I've seen a couple real cheap ones that don't have one.

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