Partner Chainsaw Thread

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Yeah, I was just looking at it in the context of similar timeline, comparing saws that were available at the same time.
Obviously the Husqvarna 50 wasn't around in 1967, nor was the maybe more validly comparable 162se. When the 50 was introduced, the 65cc toasters with av had been out for 12 or 14 years already.

Guess to clarify I should amend it to "... they're a 65-70cc platform that at the time happened to be under bored to 50-55cc for certain marketing driven segments".
I agree. The 162 is a more valid comparison than the 77 to 480, especially as they are both 77cc anyway.

Between 1974 & 1989, Husqvarna introduced four 60cc-class pro saws based on 3 distinct designs. 163, 162 , (254)262.
Between 1967 & 1983, Partner kept revising the R16, through the P55 & P65, until it became the 550 & 650.
By no means does this make the old Partners less interesting, it's just true.

And the success of the 50 Rancher, Husqvarna's first non pro-based, non-pro saw (see what I did there) which became the 51 & 55, is founded on the excellent engine and drive components raided from the Partner 500 parts bin, around which the design was penned.
 
The "bridge" is in fact cast in. Piston has two rings. I also picked up a cheap set of calipers to try and get a bore measurement. I pulled a little trick with a popsicle stick and came up a hair short of 45mm. Accuracy not something I'd swear by.
I'd say it's 55cc. 44mm bore, 36mm stroke.

In other news, I got the Husky 50 coil and put it on the 5000 that had the bad Ignitron Module. Bolted right up. I set the gap with the flywheel using a small piece of carboard about the thickness of a business card, I heard that somewhere. Now has spark and runs, seems a little fussy to start. How will I know if the gap is correct? will two far/too close alter how it runs/starts?
Air gap should be 0.3mm (0.012 inches).
 
So, those in the know, does the oiler need to come out the side? Assuming the flywheel will have to come off, doesn't look like it will come out through the bottom where the cover is.
It should come out through the rectangular hole in the base. From memory there's 1 screw inside and you have to remove the hoses and rotate it to get it out. **Don't lose the pushrod that might fall out of the hole underneath the pump.
 
It should come out through the rectangular hole in the base. From memory there's 1 screw inside and you have to remove the hoses and rotate it to get it out. **Don't lose the pushrod that might fall out of the hole underneath the pump.

Thanks! I tried moving it around a little after the screw was out but it didn't seem like there was enough room to squeak it through. Didn't remove the hoses though. I DID remove the flywheel, (That baby was ON there. Came off with a hell of a pop.) definitely doesn't come out that way.
 
Thanks! I tried moving it around a little after the screw was out but it didn't seem like there was enough room to squeak it through. Didn't remove the hoses though. I DID remove the flywheel, (That baby was ON there. Came off with a hell of a pop.) definitely doesn't come out that way.
Oilpump comes easyly out through the hole on the bottom . Hose must be removed !

Gesendet von meinem SM-G955F mit Tapatalk
 
I put the new bar and chain I had picked up for the mystery saw on the R16, just so i could cut a little bit of wood with it today. Mostly Pallets and branches for campfires, nothing serious. I long for some real wood to cut.

I started it and let it warm up for a bit while I set up a few pieces of wood and it started making a noise from the flywheel side, that sounds almost like the starter pawls getting caught? It sounds like when you shut the saw down and it clunks at the end. Doesn't do it at throttle. I shut it down, started it again, ran fine for 15-20 seconds than started doing it again for a few seconds and shut itself down. Started right up afterwards. The whole saw "torques" when it does it.

I'm going to attempt to link a short video I took of it, to see if anyone of you folks recognize it. It starts making the noise after the halfway mark. Fingers crossed it is not a bearing, or piston related.



I took the recoil housing off and checked the starter pawls, they seem to be moving free and clear.
 
What mix ratio? Could be piston slap?

It has the fuel the fella before me used in it. He said it was 32:1. I am going to dump it out and put new stuff in just to be safe.

Edit: I pulled the muffler off to have a look at the Piston. Looks new. Top and bottom of Piston look mint. Ring are great, cylinder wall is super shiney and clean.

It doesn't eliminate a bearing going but still reassuring.
 
I see most of the toaster partners have a 36 mm stroke, since most of the outside covers are the same does this mean the larger bore cylinders with the same 36 mm stroke will interchange with the 50/55 saws?
 
If that 50mm is correct, you've got a 70cc saw. I've wondered about that piston/ cylinder interchange question myself. But parts are so scarce you might have a tough time sourcing a larger piston/ cylinder to try without getting the whole saw along with!
 
The stroke is 36 mm from the r16 to the p85, I didn’t look at the smaller saws much I just checked the r16. This tells me the bottom ends are the same?
 
The stroke is 36 mm from the r16 to the p85, I didn’t look at the smaller saws much I just checked the r16. This tells me the bottom ends are the same?
Not exactly. It tells us that the crank offset is the same. The absence of other variables, like different conrod length, is an assumption, albeit likely a correct one.
 
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