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Partner Chainsaw Thread

burnses

burnses

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.I was given a partner r440t over the summer must have sat with water in it cause pretty corroded. Got a case half for it and just stumbled on a nos top end! So im getting back into it and looking forward to getting it together...old top end lost a ring locating pin so pretty rough to fix...its got spark too. Seems the partners are getting a little more popular...cool

the can
 
fossil

fossil

Eh?
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Looking for suggestions

I picked up a Pioneer - Partner 5000 plus and want to get the oiler worm gear off and it appears to be a LH thread.

I heard they had both LH threads and RH threads and luck of the draw makes mine a LH thread.

Any suggestions on how to get the worm gear off?
 
Hoggwood

Hoggwood

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Looking for suggestions

I picked up a Pioneer - Partner 5000 plus and want to get the oiler worm gear off and it appears to be a LH thread.

I heard they had both LH threads and RH threads and luck of the draw makes mine a LH thread.

Any suggestions on how to get the worm gear off?
I've never been into mine to find out. I am glad you are going to come up with a work around.

I know you can get 3/4" LH/RH threaded pipe couplings. With a 3/4" to 1" reducer and a threaded bushing to accept a bolt, you could make a redneck puller. Hex head reducers and bushings would allow you to hold the assembly with a couple of wrenches.

But, the big question is would the OD of the coupling be small enough to fit into the plastic housing? Maybe some grinding? Haven't had any experience with that setup.
 
NIP Group
fossil

fossil

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Hi Cory,

It should fit a 1/2 NPT but I haven't seen any LH thread couplings. For sure it will have to be ground down. If I could get a LH-> RH coupling I could thread a piece of pipe in and weld a nut to the end of that.

I'll have a look around and see if I can find one. I might be able to get the smallest bearing puller hooks in behind the gear but I'm not sure. Must have been a hell of a Swedish drunk to decide to put LH threads on that worm.

The tank vent was likely designed at the same party.
 
Hoggwood

Hoggwood

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Okanagan, BC
Hi Cory,

It should fit a 1/2 NPT but I haven't seen any LH thread couplings. For sure it will have to be ground down. If I could get a LH-> RH coupling I could thread a piece of pipe in and weld a nut to the end of that.

I'll have a look around and see if I can find one. I might be able to get the smallest bearing puller hooks in behind the gear but I'm not sure. Must have been a hell of a Swedish drunk to decide to put LH threads on that worm.

The tank vent was likely designed at the same party.
Small gear, I see. I was thinking it were more like the 50 series huskies. I never did get a chance to run mine much yet. Looking for an oil cap. Rubber bung just ain't cool. They rip though.
 
fossil

fossil

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That's the one I wanted out of the group of saws my friend picked up at the dump.I got the 5000, two McCinder blocks, a Homelite LX30 Bandit, a 2300 CVA Craftsman, Mac 6, Mini Mac 6, a red Craftsman 2.3 (S25DA).

My neighbor found a Pioneer 1420 in a big shed he was having demolished. I'm going to have to start selling some saws off.

@Hoggwood
For the oil cap for your 5000;
I just tried an oil cap from an XL-1 and it will work.
 
Hoggwood

Hoggwood

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Thanks of the XL-1 tip, Tim. If you end up tossing the Mac's (for a variety of reasons) be sure to pull the condensers. They work like a charm on the 7xx-9xx series. I should have been more diligent when I gave up on a few of them a number of years ago. I only pulled one at the time.
 
fossil

fossil

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@Hoggwood

Will do Cory. I will have to order and LH thread coupler to get the oiler gear off. Thanks for the tip. Once I get that I will weld up a puller.
The piston is scored on the saw, the cylinder cleaned up great.
I took the high spots off the piston and put it back together. Comps at 170 psi but I expect that will drop 10 psi once the mix gets the oil out of the cylinder.

I should have it all back together tomorrow to try and fire it up.

This saw has the most convoluted tank vent I've ever seen. All the older European saws seem to have that in common.

The boot is the new design so that's been replaced and is in good shape. I think the saw was built around 1985 according to the date slug in the carb adapter.
 
Rwrighttt

Rwrighttt

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Anyone have a spare ignition for a R440 they would part with? picked up a used saw that has very weak spark.
 
burnses

burnses

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Ill look this weekend. could be the black square thing in the handle is week...the thryster...not sure if I have a complete unit but ill look. Im doing a long term build on the same saw...
 
Rwrighttt

Rwrighttt

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Location
MD
Ill look this weekend. could be the black square thing in the handle is week...the thryster...not sure if I have a complete unit but ill look. Im doing a long term build on the same saw...
thanks appreciate it, do you happen to have parts diagram for this model? not alot of info out there on it
 
burnses

burnses

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sorry to take so ling to get back to ya....you have what I would call the first version of partner electronic ignition. The second being a coil like you have and a small black thryster (I think) mounted in the handle. I have the later ignition in my r440t. The smaller saws had the same later ignition the s55/65 and stuff like that..thing is I think Modified Mark had a thread or a mention that a coil from a husky55 series works in a s55/65. At the time I just acquired a s55 and was unsure bout the coil a tried a 55 coil and it worked....mounting is the same for the 440. So you might try a coil from a 55 husky just run the flat connector on the coil to you r switch to ground to shut the saw off. Did your saw run but die when it heated up ...usual sign of a weak coil...I imagine the switching part of your ignition might me hard to come by (square thing next to your coil...) so long answer to a short question good luck!

the can
 
Hoggwood

Hoggwood

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Messages
918
Location
Okanagan, BC
sorry to take so ling to get back to ya....you have what I would call the first version of partner electronic ignition. The second being a coil like you have and a small black thryster (I think) mounted in the handle. I have the later ignition in my r440t. The smaller saws had the same later ignition the s55/65 and stuff like that..thing is I think Modified Mark had a thread or a mention that a coil from a husky55 series works in a s55/65. At the time I just acquired a s55 and was unsure bout the coil a tried a 55 coil and it worked....mounting is the same for the 440. So you might try a coil from a 55 husky just run the flat connector on the coil to you r switch to ground to shut the saw off. Did your saw run but die when it heated up ...usual sign of a weak coil...I imagine the switching part of your ignition might me hard to come by (square thing next to your coil...) so long answer to a short question good luck!

the can
The coil from the 55/61/272 etc mounts up to the 100cc Partners. Only issue is the kill switch will operate in reverse.
 
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B-N

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The coil from the 55/61/272 etc mounts up to the 100cc Partners. Only issue is the kill switch will operate in reverse.
Thanks for this info, helped trouble shoot my P100 Super. Was running, then it had no spark, later I noticed the "ground wire" wasn't hooked up. So apparently on these saws the "ground wire" has to be hooked up. The P100 is back up and running and I learned a thing!!
 
Huskybill

Huskybill

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I have a partner R12(90cc) R40(100 cc) P85 (85 cc), a mess of 500, 55, 65, 40’s haven’t looked at them yet. The older ones are all metal, the later ones have more plastic.
 
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