Partner Chainsaw Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Glad you found the problem. If you have coil trouble again, just buy a 10 dollar Husky 55 coil off fleabay. It should bolt right on. I put them on all my Partners except the little guys like the 5000's.
 
You can use a "real" one piece coil off later partners so as p7000plus or husqv.272 ... if so, rifa module has to be removed

Gesendet von meinem SM-G928F mit Tapatalk

I have found the coils you speak of do not have the correct contour of the core to match the bigger flywheel of the P100.

Its better to use the coil from the large Partner/Husqvarna cut off saws as they also have the big flywheel.
 
Well, that is it!!

The wire had fallen apart to the module inside the handle! Geez, what a place to hide the module....

The wire was broken completely off the rifa module....

I bet with new wiring she will be back to a nice roar!

If the Rifa module gives trouble you can replace it with a Nova module to fire the coil. Seems to work just fine on one of mine.
 
Thank you all.

I have 3 husky 55 coils that I would have sacrificed to try if I couldn't get it going.... even though not ideal...


She is running like a top now with the ignitor hooked up.

I went to check the spark on the ignition tester and pulled it over and it started in half a pull with a super bright spark!

Had to solder the wires to the old terminal as it wouldn't let the old wire go from the crimp, even with more solder and a ton of heat...

Wrapped it all with high temp silicone wire wrap to keep it from grounding out.
 
Has anyone ever had a P500 not oil well because the oil seems to be coming out from under the bar guide plate cover?
 
Haven't had that problem, but I probably have an extra bar plate you can have if you need one. Maybe that's not the trouble though.
 
Haven't had that problem, but I probably have an extra bar plate you can have if you need one. Maybe that's not the trouble though.
That's the thing, it might be a part that should be there under that plate but isn't, but I'm not well educated on them so I wouldn't know
 
There should be a rubber seal/oil line on the outside of the oiler housing that fits under the bar plate.
I will have to check tomorrow but I don't remember seeing anything like that and that might be the problem, I will post a photo in the am when I go work on some projects before leaving for the holidays.
 
There should be a rubber seal/oil line on the outside of the oiler housing that fits under the bar plate.
Check the tiny pin - thats pressed in the crankcase! This gives the oiler piston vertical movement when rotating.
Thouse pin often worn out an can be replaced E.
 
Ok, so thanks for the help everyone, I believed I fixed the oiling problem, now I have to tackle another, it seems the clutch engages at an extremely low rpm, anyone ever had this problem?
 
Ok, so thanks for the help everyone, I believed I fixed the oiling problem, now I have to tackle another, it seems the clutch engages at an extremely low rpm, anyone ever had this problem?

You can just swap the whole clutch out with a newer style clutch. A Husky 51, 55, 261 and other Jonsereds and such all used the same clutch. Easy to find and cheap.
 
Fellas -

Paring down my collection and going to sell my two Partner R-11's. Don't quite know how to price them -- any thoughts on a fair price for a complete (including B&C) R-11 that has compression and spark? Saws are not shelf queens, but should clean up pretty good.

Thanks

Scott
 
Check the tiny pin - thats pressed in the crankcase! This gives the oiler piston vertical movement when rotating.
Thouse pin often worn out an can be replaced E.

I ended up buying the 2 early black cased 500's from Kinsie. I had not been deep into one that old, and found it to be a pre 82 with a Ignitron ign.

I also found that the early version oilers did not have the metal pin you mention but instead had a plastic pin made into the plastic housing.

The case did have the hole in it to install the metal pin that comes with the later style oiler kit. The
 
Back
Top