Partner Chainsaw Thread

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bcorradi your 420 is a super good saw all metal 65cc.I have two a 420 points and an R420 the R means electronic.They also made a 420 with heated handle bars exhaust gas was piped through the handle bars.About the only thing to watch out for is be gentle with the plastic arm on the carb it is there to enrich the fuel for starting.These saws start really well and idle great performance is like 162 Husky 630 Jon and not far behind a 266xp or 670 .They have great torque i have over 40 working saws and the 420s are up near the top of the list I have two P70s great saws but I like the 420 better.
The saw you show looks like a Pioneer 650 I have two the first saw OMC made after they bought out IEL was the Pioneer 600 some say they made the IEL designed RA in the beginning but I am not sure.I have two 650s these saws were sold from 1965 into the seventies.I believe they made this saw model so long was there were still a lot of guys who still thougt a light weight saw would not hold up.I can remember conversations of this nature from my childhood. i started cutting with an Ra and then with a 600 at around 12 years old.
The plastic arm is white the saw can be used with out it it is located on the top the carb and is activated with the choke.
Enjoy
Kash
 
I think the RA was just IEL but I can foggily remember some older guys talking when I was a kid and one guy swore it was produced in Peterborough he said his brother worked at the plant back in the day.I was just a kid and you should take this info with a grain of salt as I clearly remember that those fellows were consuming many brown bottles of lip loosener.
Kash
 
Historic saw for over 25 years
Partner 650 No reaction to the H screw in the carburetor it seems clean despite its age . This is some valve? Brown J19
 

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My carburetor gives too little fuel and cannot be increased by screw H, although it seems clean despite its age. It starts well and does not go out
 
I would like to understand how this Ignitron system works, if someone can enlighten me.
I went to start my Partner 55 but it would not start. So I took apart the Red STOP lever and cleaned and re-clearanced it with no change. Removed the black wire connection at the coil and she starts right up. So I thought that the RIFA was bad and bought another on with the exact same part number. Installed it and the same thing---plug black wire into coil and it shorts out the coil. Dead straight to ground. Ran a simple check to prove it. I then unplugged the black wire at the Stop lever, ran the continuity test again and the black wire goes straight to ground. I am confused about why the saw even has this RIFA thingy since the wiring makes no sense. What I see is a black wire with a female connection on both ends, and at the RIFA end there is a wire soldered onto the female connection that then goes to the STOP lever where it has a pin that fits into the lever. With both the coil connection and the STOP connection disconnected the black wire still shows it going straight to ground even though it is attached to the male connection on the RIFA.
Can someone help me? I missing something here.
 
Your P55 does it have the trigger module in the handle below the stop switch.When I changed my P70 from the two part coil ignition to the one part coil I had no spark until I disconnected the stop switch,Being lazy I had left the trigger module in the handle of the saw it was shorted to ground When I removed the module and snipped the wire off at the switch I had great spark.
Great saws enjoy Kash
 
I saw this damper on ebay, but its price and shipping discouraged me from buying ;-) I preferred to buy the whole saw. I was looking for the catalog number
 
My post might be confusing to you.If you now have one piece coil wire should go from coil to ignition switch grounded only in stop position .
Kash
Thanks for that---and it makes sense. What I don't understand is the function of the solid state RIFA unit? It wasn't cheap and I hate for it having to be useless.
 
I changed the two part ignition on my F55 to a 1 piece system using a Husky 61 coil from China. Works Great. I never found a RIFA module on mine. On Off switch works fine. I put a new Caber ring on but only have about one tank of fuel through it.
 
The saw I picked had had a tough life so I invested an extra $10 as the cylinder looked reasonable. It's never going to be my go to saw but it runs, oils and cuts. Just after I installed the rings the rewind spring broke. I ordered one from the UK but it didn't fit well so I was helped by a fellow saw guy on here with a replacement recoil complete. Do I guess now I have a spare recoil spring.
 
When you have the two piece ignition the one on the flywheel is the coil and the one in the handle is the trigger.The newer one piece has both the coil and trigger combined in one.
If you read posts on guys converting there points saws to electronic they are just disconnecting the points and condensor and using a trigger module such as Nova etc.
As stated in an earlier post the coil from a Husky 51 55 Etc fits the partner and no separate trigger is needed just make sure you remove the trigger module and remove the wire from it to the switch.all I can say is two piece was old school use your spare trigger module to convert almost any points ignition to electronic.
I have a John Deere Lx172 lawn tractor it had two piece system I burned up the coil accidently I ordered the coil from dealer changed it but the motor would run way out of time I searched the internet on the 172 and ignition problems found lots of posts guys just kept on changing parts till some thing worked I finally went on JD parts .com and hunted took awhile but midway threw the production run they changed from the two piece ignition to the one piece BUT they also changed the FLYWHEEL with different timeing,in all the nights I spent reading posts on the Lx172 ignition not one dealer knew this many guys bought the wrong coil and you can not return electrical parts.
Kash
 
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