Pawn shop find Poulan Pro PP5020AV - $69

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deepwoodbigbear

Just get me close
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Found a good looking Poulan Pro 5020 at a pawn shop, it runs good, plastic looks good, $69. I'm thinking about buying it for my dirt and loaner saw.

I was looking for something in the 16" range but heck for the money I might just pick it up.
 
They are a decent 50cc saw. Sounds like you have a purpose thar fits it's abikity.
 
Lol! I've heard of saws with a cat but never an abikity. "Sir, I have found the problem with your saw. It has an abikity."

It sounds like a good deal, op. I would try one for the price.

No need to be a grammar nazi.
 
I actually just found one of these PP5020AV saws at a pawn shop here in Richmond, Virginia. It's 3 years since your post, but I needed a quick replacement for a buddies saw and the one I got today was absolutely brand new when the previous owner pawned it, they put fuel mixture in at the pawn shop to test it and then it's been sitting in the warehouse for 3 years with zero hours on it, but a full tank of ancient fuel clogging things up.

Since it didn't even have dust anywhere even under the air filter cover plate, and it was at a pawn shop I've used before and know they inspect items carefully. I didn't even bother trying to start it in the store. But sure as sh*t, got it home and it starts perfectly (with precise attention to the instructions), but before I can start a cut it bogs down and dies.

But I got a 50cc 20" for $70 instead of buying him a new 33cc 16" on sale at Lowe's for just over a hundred. And I can clean the carb and muffler mod it in an hour tomorrow afternoon, so I still think it was a good deal. As long as it's not something that is atypical. It just seems like a no-brainer it's gotta be a gummy fuel system.

Really enjoying the forums. Excellent information and pleasant contributors from what I see tonight. I rarely join boards OR do tree work. Lol But I'm really excited to learn more during my 1 month a year when I'm gung-ho and working every day to build our firewood stores back up for NEXT year. I'm going to dig further and see what I need to do to fully capitalize on the 5020av's capabilities so I can get it all done in a few hours tomorrow afternoon and I won't have to pull out my gun and shoot the damn thing cuz after all the work it STILL won't keep running. Lol

I don't mind doing some tweaking, but I'm going to lose my mind if I still can't use the saw when I'm done. So any pointers to specific threads here that nail the "perfect setup" for the saw, would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Larz
 
I actually just found one of these PP5020AV saws at a pawn shop here in Richmond, Virginia. It's 3 years since your post, but I needed a quick replacement for a buddies saw and the one I got today was absolutely brand new when the previous owner pawned it, they put fuel mixture in at the pawn shop to test it and then it's been sitting in the warehouse for 3 years with zero hours on it, but a full tank of ancient fuel clogging things up.

Since it didn't even have dust anywhere even under the air filter cover plate, and it was at a pawn shop I've used before and know they inspect items carefully. I didn't even bother trying to start it in the store. But sure as sh*t, got it home and it starts perfectly (with precise attention to the instructions), but before I can start a cut it bogs down and dies.

But I got a 50cc 20" for $70 instead of buying him a new 33cc 16" on sale at Lowe's for just over a hundred. And I can clean the carb and muffler mod it in an hour tomorrow afternoon, so I still think it was a good deal. As long as it's not something that is atypical. It just seems like a no-brainer it's gotta be a gummy fuel system.

Really enjoying the forums. Excellent information and pleasant contributors from what I see tonight. I rarely join boards OR do tree work. Lol But I'm really excited to learn more during my 1 month a year when I'm gung-ho and working every day to build our firewood stores back up for NEXT year. I'm going to dig further and see what I need to do to fully capitalize on the 5020av's capabilities so I can get it all done in a few hours tomorrow afternoon and I won't have to pull out my gun and shoot the damn thing cuz after all the work it STILL won't keep running. Lol

I don't mind doing some tweaking, but I'm going to lose my mind if I still can't use the saw when I'm done. So any pointers to specific threads here that nail the "perfect setup" for the saw, would be greatly appreciated.

Regards,
Larz
They are easy saws to mod and tune. Swiss cheese the muffler and retune it and you’re ready to go.
 
These Poulan Pro saws seem to have carburetors that are very prone to getting gunked up and running like s--t above 1/4 throttle. My 4218 just started behaving the same way, starts idles and runs great up to 1/4 throttle and then it's all lean bog above that, high speed adjustment does not help. Will be cleaning the carb as soon as another saw leaves my bench.
 
I've worked on multiple Poulan Pros over the past year or so and... hated them all. I currently have a 5020 in the shed that was near new, and I picked up for a very good price along with another smaller Pro (I forget which model, 3816 I think) and they didn't really have anything seriously wrong with them. They were garage queens, still in the carrying case, with the typical carb/fuel line nonsense, so I did muffler mods and tunes, and what I really hate about them is that they're so @$!#ing erratic to tune. Along with the pull start - they never feel like they have any compression...

I got the 5020 running reasonably well, and had a friend use it to help me cut up a sizeable oak that went down (> 20" trunk), so it's definitely capable of doing some work, but they're just... I dunno, quirky, finicky, odd saws and they don't feel like they have a lot of grunt for their cc's. Maybe I'm just biased toward the old saws, but I was running a 10-10 and a Super-XL on this same oak and I just smile all day long running those animals! Loud and gutsy (yes I know, a few more cc's) and never give up. They'll also shake you like you owe them money LOL. I can't even really say I hate "plastic" saws either, I love my 455 Rancher.

Not a Poulan hater either - I had a Farmhand 2900 that I patched up and sold, and I kinda regret it now, that saw would get it, even with a 20" bar and full comp chain! I'd take that over a 5020 any day.

Suggestions above are a good place to start. Muffler mod helps and makes it sound more like a real saw. ;) I use a dremel with a burr to open everything up, just make sure you get the filings cleaned out so they don't backwash into the cylinder. Retune (open up the high needle a bit) after that mod.

Clean the carb out, they do seem to clog/gum up easily as MacAttack stated. Run it dry when you're done so you don't have to clean it out next time hehe. Take your time and adjust in small increments. Typically saws will start/run enough to get a good tune with 1&1/2 turns out on both needles, but the 5020 likes it a little juicier as I recall. I want to say 2-2&1/2 out on both as a starting point. It might say on the saw if the sticker is still there. Should "four stroke" no-load and clear up under load. If you've ever watched a Buckin Billy Ray video, you can clearly hear his Mac(s) burble when he lets up and then they just hum when it gets back in the cut.

Not tryin' to piss in your cheerios with my Poulan angst either, hope that saw works out for you! Good price for it if it's a runner and gets the job done. I'm giving mine to my brother-in-law until I can finish the 10-10 I'm building him. :D
 
Interesting that you guys mention the tuning.

My 4218 was a bear to tune. My 5020 was easy.

@Modifiedmark let me in on a secret about tuning the 35/38/42 series saws.....you turn it lean till it runs like crap. Mark that spot. Then turn it rich till it runs like crap. Mark that spot. Adjust the carb halfway from the lean to rich marks and you are all set.

Those saws also run like complete crap until they have a few tanks through them.
 
Thanks man, i would except i do have a set of carb adjustment tools. (thank you China, lol). The Poulan Pro uses the "Splined" tool.
HAH I bought two sets (one for the shop, one for the road) off Amazon for a few bucks each - definitely made in China. To rupedoggy's point it is convenient to slot them with a dremel or hacksaw. I've definitely done it in the past. Everyone has a flathead screwdriver in a pinch, not everyone has the splined tools.
 
HAH I bought two sets (one for the shop, one for the road) off Amazon for a few bucks each - definitely made in China. To rupedoggy's point it is convenient to slot them with a dremel or hacksaw. I've definitely done it in the past. Everyone has a flathead screwdriver in a pinch, not everyone has the splined tools.

Yeah that's true, in my case I'll only use the Poulan for light duty work around the property, i save the real work for the Mccullochs.

I have an entire tool chest drawer full of fuel line, carbs, carb parts, filters, on and on to keep these damn things running.
 
And just like that... my Poulan 4218 went and fixed itself. After it was running like garbage i reset both adjustments to 1 1/2 turns while it was sitting in my garage. I'm doing some work around the house and for s--ts and giggles I grabbed the saw, primed it, choke, SOB started up and ran perfect, great throttle response. Guess I'm not stripping the carb apart.

Divine intervention?
 
I've fixed a LOT of saws that have sat longer than they should with fuel in them by simply removing the "L" and "H" screws and pushing a little 2 + 2 carb cleaner thru the holes followed by a few "puffs" of compressed air. That'll get em up and running about 1/2 the time, if not the carb needs to come off and completely cleaned out.

Not a Poulan "hater" (they hate me) but I do NOT work on them in my shop, talking about the plastic box-store stuff they've flooded the market with over the past couple of decades or so. Those saws are everywhere and for cheap or free, mostly because they are purchased by folks who a tighter than bark on a tree, or just going to do a small job or casual cutting on occasion. The casual cutting once in a while is a death sentence for a box-store Poulan saw. They will absolutely REFUSE to fire up when left sitting for a long time with fuel in them, and they don't run that great new right out of the box.

One of my employees owned one, and he only uses it once or twice a year after a big windstorm when he'd have a few limbs down in his yard. I hated to see him coming to work carrying that POS and wanting me to take a look at it because he needed to cut up a few limbs and it refused to start.

The last time it was here we couldn't get it going no matter what we did to it and ended up yanking it so many times it broke something inside the pull-starter. I decided to fix it once and for all, and pulled out a nice Husqvarna 51 I'd taken in here as a donation that had sat for at least 10 years. Got it running in minutes, gave it as a present to my employee, and that completely ended having to work on his Poulan ever again.......FWIW.......Cliff
 
I've got one right now that is brand new that was left with gas in it. The guy took the carb off and lost the air cleaner, cover, and the bolts for the carb. I'm trying to locate those parts. I've already done a MM on it. Ready to get it running.
 
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