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Permatex motoseal

farmguywithasaw

farmguywithasaw

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How long for this to cure. I am working on a johnsered Cs 2150 and it had had an air leak on the clamshell. Thought no big deal just put some motorseal on it torqued it down and went to bed this morning I pressure test and I get to 7 psi and the motoseal lets go not cured enough I guess. Will hear from a heat gun on low into the exhaust port help cure? I am cleaning it up and re applying
 

U&A

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I don’t know the cure time but I would not heat gun anything I would let it cure by itself.

Just a question, your sure that is were the leak is?


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM
 
farmguywithasaw

farmguywithasaw

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Yes sire I used my soapy water and everything it held pressure until I hit 7 psi the I herd a small pop and it leaked in the same spot it was some what sticky like it was not cured all the way I usually test between 7 and 10 psi
 
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RED-85-Z51

RED-85-Z51

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I use motoseal 1 and its done in 20 to 30 minutes depending on temp and humidity...fully cured ready to rock

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SteveSr

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How long for this to cure. I am working on a johnsered Cs 2150 and it had had an air leak on the clamshell. Thought no big deal just put some motorseal on it torqued it down and went to bed this morning I pressure test and I get to 7 psi and the motoseal lets go not cured enough I guess. Will hear from a heat gun on low into the exhaust port help cure? I am cleaning it up and re applying
Made the same mistake... ONCE! Motoseal should NEVER be used for sealing clamshells as it is non-hardening and not rated for gap filling. Use Dirko HT or Yamabond 4.
 
RED-85-Z51

RED-85-Z51

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You have the correct product there for sure, ive seen it patch big gaps in 30 minutes. Need to figure out why it didnt cure.

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SteveSr

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SteveSr

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Here is what I used on an 025 clamshell that failed the pressure test after 24 hours.


It went right back to the auto parts store...

Now use Dirko HT
 
jrs_diesel

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An excellent sealant for this purpose (no gasket, metal to metal, narrow clearance) made by Permatex is the 51813 Anaerobic Gasket Maker. 51813 is an anaerobic sealant, which means it only cures in the absence of air once the clamshell or cylinder is reassembled. Any squeeze out stays liquid and can simply be wiped off on the outsize. Inside the crankcase, the fuel mix washes it out with no ill effects. This is the same stuff used to seal up crankcase halves on 2 stroke outboards, from the little single cylinder ones to the big V6's. Good stuff, and easy to work with. Loctite 518 is similar, if not exactly the same.

When I resealed my Wild Thing last year (bad crankshaft seals), that is what I used. The tube says that once the parts are assembled, it's ready to go in one hour. Based on their cure time chart, 1 hour is about 50% strength. 10 hours is just about full strength, and is practically fully cured at 24 hours. I waited a day before trying to start the Wild Thing. Been running like a champ ever since.
 
RED-85-Z51

RED-85-Z51

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Weird yall are having problems with it. Last week i did my Timber Bear oil tank and case completely with motoseal and only waited as long as it took me to put the side cover on and recoil, added gas and oil...off she went.

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Okie294life

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How long for this to cure. I am working on a johnsered Cs 2150 and it had had an air leak on the clamshell. Thought no big deal just put some motorseal on it torqued it down and went to bed this morning I pressure test and I get to 7 psi and the motoseal lets go not cured enough I guess. Will hear from a heat gun on low into the exhaust port help cure? I am cleaning it up and re applying
May want to think about torquing down all the way right after applying sealant. I’ve done that before and squished it all out the side. I think, and a lot of others will probably beat me up for this, that you only should torque it down partially, then let it setup for a few hours, then tighten it down the rest of the way. Like tighten it until the stuff starts to show around the edge of the cylinder, then stop wait for it to cure an hour or two then finish. Motoseal sets up hard like 3bond.
 
farmguywithasaw

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I tested it again today and no dice first thing I’m going to do is check for warped matings surface with a straight edge ( lower half of clam is plastic) they try yamabond
I’m tempted to try the permatex right stuff but it is not rated for gasoline which sucks because it works great it has never leaked on me
 
cuinrearview

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YB4 will work. Make sure it's squeaky clean. I've heard of people roughing the surfaces but I've never found it necessary. If the saw has much use at all finding flat surfaces won't be possible.
 
SteveSr

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I tested it again today and no dice first thing I’m going to do is check for warped matings surface with a straight edge ( lower half of clam is plastic) they try yamabond.
This is the issue with clam shells. By definition the clam shells will have a gap near the bearings to hold the bearings tight. This is why you need a GAP FILLING sealer like Dirko HT. The gap is due to mechanical tolerances. Can be tight (gap) but CAN't be loose!
 
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