Philbert Meets the STIHL RS3

[angelo c]

The manuals for these grinders (all of them) are pretty poor. They only make sense after you already understand the grinders and no longer need the manuals. The newer manuals are just as bad, but only use pictograms for international audiences, so if you are a mime with a chainsaw, you might be in luck.

By 'centering' the vise, we mean that both the Right and Left cutters will be ground to the same length, without adjusting the chain stop. On the 511A (and similar grinders), this is done with the hex bolt and locking nut. The easiest way to do this is to take a new chain and set it in the vise like you were going to grind it. Keep rotating the vise for the R and L cutters, and adjusting the hex nut, until they both are the same distance from the wheel.

Note that this changes slightly as the wheel wears. So you can check the centering periodically, or double check each chain as you grind it (what I do). I grind all the cutters on one side, then just one cutter on the other. I hold this cutter back-to-back with a cutter from the first side, and make any fine adjustments needed. They should be close. If not, center your vise!

The 511AX is supposed to have a self-centering vise.

View attachment 390224

More info on this grinder in links referenced in Post #32 above, including :
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/

Philbert

thanks as always. think i got a better understanding of what its trying to say now.
A

 

[blueknobbuck]

Got a grinder for christmas, i mounted it on an old truck wheel with a piece of 3" pipe, so it could be moved around, works great

 

[Philbert]

Update

In the first post in this thread, I mentioned using a 'ScotchBrite' brand deburring wheel on chains to remove burr on drive links, and showed a photo of the type I used to use. I have recently started using a different type, with better results for this application, and posted that information in this thread:

http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...ve-link-deburring-wheels.284866/#post-5507764

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

(Bump)

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

This chain took a couple of soaks, each followed by some light brushing with an old toothbrush. . . .

More on chain cleaning in this thread, including the use of other brushes:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/

"the brass refinishing brushes (left side) do not hold up well for removing rust. I like the smaller, stainless steel scratch brush (second from the right) from a local welding supply house."



Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Bump!

Referenced this a few times recently, so time for a periodic 'Bump!'

Philbert

 

[PGK1]

Lots of good info in this thread Philbert, I picked up a gallon of that Super clean the other day and tried it out on a chain that was pretty filthy, it did a great job cleaning all the built up gunk that was on it. I sharpened the chain then soaked it in a homebrew mix of 75-90 w, 30 w, and mineral spirits, let the chain hang for a couple of days then bag it. I used to use this mix when I used to ride bicycles approx. 100 to 125 miles a week and it worked good on the bike chains. Because the mineral spirits take so long to dry I'm thinking about trying lacquer thinner instead. A neighbor of mine told me about using a 50-50 mix of atf and acetone on stubborn bolts instead of PB Blaster and for that it works fantastic but acetone and oil don't mix, come out of suspension fairly quickly not sure if that would be a bad of a good thing on a chain?

Pete

 

[Philbert]

I use WD-40 for storage (removes any residual moisture) and a thin oil (like 3-In-One) to penetrate deeply on any tight links. Bar and chain oil will penetrate better if the chain is 'primed' in my gestimation.

Philbert

 

[PGK1]

Agreed, we found at least with bike chains using a thinner allowed the oil to better penetrate the links.
I'm going to give acetone and chain oil a go, might as well use the same oil that goes into the saw.

 

[Philbert]

Agreed, we found at least with bike chains using a thinner allowed the oil to better penetrate the links.
I'm going to give acetone and chain oil a go, might as well use the same oil that goes into the saw.

In the winter we often thin the bar and chain oil with kerosene or diesel fuel. Diesel stinks, so consider using kerosene (won't evaporate like acetone, and less flammable)!

Philbert

 

[PGK1]

Thanks Philbert, I'll put than in the ole memory bank.