Pioneer 650 suitable for milling?

[Rosss]

I would like to do some hobby milling of some alder, elm and poplar. Largest diameter currently is about 20 inches.
I am looking to put low $ into this at this time.
I have the chance to buy a Pioneer 650 that is apparently running well for less than $100.

Will this saw be suitable for milling? It has a 103cc displacement but is from the early 70's.

specs http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...748466414855d68f88256aff001ec2ba?OpenDocument

Thoughts and advice?

Thank you.

 

[ML12]

Not advisable. You could make it work but the lack of an automatic oiler makes it a lot more work than it would otherwise be. Its also a slow saw, I have 2 from that family of saws and they cut painfully slow. Lots of torque which is nice, but there are a lot of other better options for a milling saw. Part availability is also an issue.

I'd look for an older stihl 050, 051, 075/6 etc. They are used by many of the members on here for milling. That or a newer saw.

for a 20" log, you only need a 28 or 32" bar, you could get away with a smaller displacement saw, something like a 460, or 372.

 

[rarefish383]

I milled with a Homelite Super 1050 for 5-6 years. It had an auto oiler, but I grew up on thumb oilers. If you are used to emptying the oil tank with every fuel tank, it makes little difference. It's just getting into the habit. After about a year your right thumb will be as big as your forearm. The one thing I noticed with the 1050 and 404 chain, if I hit a screw or nail, it would knock off one or maybe two sets of teeth and keep going. Could hardly tell the difference. With my new 660 and 3/8's chain, spinning at 12,000 RPM, you hit the same screw, and it knocked off every tooth. It didn't literally knock them off, just dulled the heck out of them. As much as I liked my old 1050, I wouldn't go back. The 660 is so much smoother, quieter, and easier to start. But, my Dad bought both of my 1050's in the early 70's and I know exactly what shape they are in, no guess work. The old 1050 did spin up about 1000-1500 RPM more than the Pioneer. I could see it being rather slow, Joe.

 

[rarefish383]

Actually, when milling I'd be pushing with my right hand and pumping the oil with my left. Details, Joe.

 

[Rosss]

Not advisable. You could make it work but the lack of an automatic oiler makes it a lot more work than it would otherwise be. Its also a slow saw, I have 2 from that family of saws and they cut painfully slow. Lots of torque which is nice, but there are a lot of other better options for a milling saw. Part availability is also an issue.

I'd look for an older stihl 050, 051, 075/6 etc. They are used by many of the members on here for milling. That or a newer saw.

for a 20" log, you only need a 28 or 32" bar, you could get away with a smaller displacement saw, something like a 460, or 372.

Thank you for the input. I found a stihl 050 that I bought.

 

[rocketnorton]

from a x edmontonian, welcome. from a newb pioneer guy.

my 650

 

[ML12]

 

[BobL]

The trick with saws like the 650 would be to run a aux oiler capable of delivering more oil that usual.
Slower chain speeds can be compensated for to some degree by running lower rakers where the extra torque comes into its own.
The same applies to all older slower speed saws.

 

[Walter Glover]

Adding a drip oiler to the mill frame would be a piece of cake it would put oil closer to where you needed it anyways from bar tip and along cutting side of bar. No pumping or at least less pumping!
Might have to try this myself haha.