Pioneer chainsaws

[PogoInTheWoods]

That Husky combo roller tool is the same depth gauge concept as the stand alone flat one I pictured. It operates on the 'progressive' concept vs. providing a 'fixed' adjustment like the one in the Handyman pic.

 

[hillwilliam]

That Husky combo roller tool is the same depth gauge concept as the stand alone flat one I pictured. It operates on the 'progressive' concept vs. providing a 'fixed' adjustment like the one in the Handyman pic.

I really like the flat ones. The ones with the rollers are too flexible and don't hold up to a file. Thanks for putting up pictures.

 

[2stroke_shaman]

What to do with a worn 24" 7/16 .058 bar? Run a .062 abrasive wheel through the roller(hardest part of bar ) and use it again at .404/.063 ! I wear out everthing .

 

[Walter Glover]

I only use the bottom one and have no idea how to use the Husky unit as a depther?

 

[Walter Glover]

Ah yes the P41 she be a runner!!
Carb kit, fuel line, new 20" b&c and a cleanup she is ready to rock!

 

[fossil]

I only use the bottom one and have no idea how to use the Husky unit as a depther?

Walter,

The long Oregon type is OK if all the cutters are the same length and still fairly long. If they aren't you will be gauging off the longest cutter and any short cutters under that long bar will end up with depth gages being too high. The same goes as the cutter length gets short as those long gauges will set the depth gauges too high.
The Husky one with the rollers and the Husky one in Poge's post will gauge each individual tooth regardless of length to give you the right depth gauge height on each one.
Most people have trouble when using the Oregon type gauge as the cutters get shorter and that won't set the depth gauges low enough.

The chain in the pics is a pretty worn semi chisel chain I used for cutting firewood full of screws, lag bolts and other fasteners. Lots of different length cutters and poor top plate angles but it cuts straight and pretty fast. I use up a lot of the sort of wrecked chains I get with old saws.

I certainly don't claim to be a great chain filer but they work well for me.

Take some tops from hillwilliam as he is professional logger.

A couple of pics how I set those gauges.

Husky flat gauge



Husky roller gauge

 

[Walter Glover]

Thank you Tim
Will check my chains and try that husky guide
I built a grinder so getting cutters the same length is easier.
Also grind depthers once I file one or two to set depth
Cheers eh

 

[fossil]

Thank you Tim
Will check my chains and try that husky guide
I built a grinder so getting cutters the same length is easier.
Also grind depthers once I file one or two to set depth
Cheers eh

If you smack something and mess up a few cutters and use the Husky gauges to set the gauges you won't have to worry about any of them being the same length.

Try it on a well worn, filed back chain, 1st with the Oregon gauge, cut and then reset the gauges using the Husky type and cut.

I find the gauge with the rollers a bit of a pain to use. The long flat type goes much faster and isn't trying to flop around.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I use mine a little differently. I center straddle the chain with the front slot and position the depth gauge against the rear of the slot on either the left or right side relative to the direction of the cutter. They just line up that way when used in a 'straight line' orientation with the chain. Allows for some of the double raker safety chain and the Vanguard style raker using it that way and also seems faster to position for me. Just lay the gauge up against the raker and go. You're also filing against the raker and the gauge not needing to hold the gauge back against the front or the raker if filing in a more forward or diagonal motion (instead of 90 degrees across) which is my basic method. FWIW, I just set the gauge on a chain in the manner Tim used in his pic and the height seemed about the same using either position. Angle obviously changed but so did the space (length) between the cutter and where the gauge sits on the chain. Looked like a wash by eye.

BTW, the flat Husky gauges come in all chain pitches but won't work on the hump link safety chain for obvious reasons.

But I digress....

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[PogoInTheWoods]

Noticed the hardening coloration on your flat gauge, Tim. Have yet to take a torch to one of my new ones to see if it'll get more mileage.

 

[fossil]

Noticed the hardening coloration on your flat gauge, Tim. Have yet to take a torch to one of my new ones to see if it'll get more mileage.

I kind of messed up on that one. I didn't quench it quick enough and you can see where the soft spot is. I'll re-harden before I use it again.

 

[2stroke_shaman]

Has anyone tried the Pferd CSX or Stihl 2 in 1 filers? Looked like a gimmic to me but then I watched a few you tube videos . Now I want to hear from experience for near $50 it better be good.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Has anyone tried the Pferd CSX or Stihl 2 in 1 filers? Looked like a gimmic to me but then I watched a few you tube videos . Now I want to hear from experience for near $50 it better be good.

My wood cutting buddy uses one exclusively, he is not much at free hand filing but gets real good results with his Stihl 2 in 1

 

[Brian72]

Has anyone tried the Pferd CSX or Stihl 2 in 1 filers? Looked like a gimmic to me but then I watched a few you tube videos . Now I want to hear from experience for near $50 it better be good.

I really like my Stihl 2 in 1. Works well and it's quick.

Sent from my E6782 using Tapatalk

 

[p61 western]

Ah yes the P41 she be a runner!!
Carb kit, fuel line, new 20" b&c and a cleanup she is ready to rock!

Glad to hear it's running good. Feel free to try out a 8 pin on it. My p41hp came stock with one on it, and it runs it just fine even with a 24 on it in hardwood.

 

[2stroke_shaman]

New tool to the box . The finest Harbor freight has to offer . Works good. The spinner center and thrust center line up good. Was an issue in reviews.

 

[2stroke_shaman]

The pioneer 600 is playing nice . Here is some info .
Crank bearings SKF 6203-2Z/C3GJN
Clutch seal Dichtomatic or TC 17x40x8TC.
Mag seal TC 17x32x8TC.
Clutch Drum Oregon # 16226
Clutch rim Oregon #68210 3/8-7 .058
Bar 24" Oregon K095 mount 375-.058 #248RNDK095 84 DL
Chain Oregon #73JGX084G Skip/chisel
Carb kit, RK 88HL

I got the bar ,chain, rim at Frawleys Saw Shop. Guy knows what he sells and bar , chain ,rim were all stock . Check him out at : http://www.loggerchain.com

 

[paul hill]

Summer before last, my beloved P52 grenaded. I've had it since it was new, and a P51 originally. The wrist pin bearing had come apart and did enough damage that I needed to start with a different top end. My friend and member in AZ set me up with everything I needed to rebuild and re-BUILD the old girl - again, including a strong bottom end that mated beautifully with the jug in terms of squish.

It didn't seem as strong as it had in its previous iteration, and I was doubting my ability to build a Pioneer, though I've done a number of them. She got a lot of exercise last summer, though, and seemed to get stronger. My only way to gauge how it turned out its to compare it to my 655BP. I figure if I can speak of the two saws in the same sentence, I done good.





Go ahead and time them, if you want. I can't tell which is faster in that wood - they're within a few hundredths of a second. Doesn't matter anyway. This is where I apologize for bragging, but I'm mighty happy.

Yes, the bars are different. The chains are chisel filed the same, although the cutters on the 655 are shorter (faster). The 655 is spinning a 3/8 x 8 and made the same cut about a half second slower with a 3/8 x 7. (I didn't include and inter-tube video of that cut.) The P52 is spinning a 3/8 x 7, like it has for decades.

Of course, the 655 really comes into its own in bigger wood than I normally cut, but the old P52 sure holds her own!

I sure like the way that 52 runs and cuts. I doubt there's many 40 year old 5 cube saws that would run with it! Nice job.

 

[paul hill]

Chain sharpening......
As in more depth say 0.035" or more?
Up here be cutting mainly poplar andsome spruce or pine. May cut the odd birch. So how eould I sharpen to match a P41 and P51 power curve?
Walter

I certainly don't claim to be an expert at chain filing but I'd try different top plate angles and raker depths to see what cuts better in the wood your cutting the most of.

I know for round filing non-safety chisel chain and cutting mainly hard wood, I like about a 30 degree top plate angle and .025 on the rakers. The saws throw nice chips and self feed into the wood well. More top plate angle/bigger raker depths and my Pioneers will chew more than they can handle. You can probably get away with a lot more top plate angle and taking your rakers down more in soft wood though.

For square filing, I'm a novice at best. I mainly wear out good files while filing off a lot of good chain! I've tried a few different top plate angles but still don't have it all figured out. I've tried Hillwilliam's 5° top plate angles in Ponderosa Pine and they make a snow storm of big wood chips. Definitely a good choice

For the dirty oak I cut the most of, I think a little more top plate angle (15° or so) and .020 on the rakers cuts better but I'm still trying to figure all of that out.

 

[p61 western]

I sure like the way that 52 runs and cuts. I doubt there's many 40 year old 5 cube saws that would run with it! Nice job.

I agree with you 100% on this. I had a 281 Husky and it was not even close to my p52 or p51, so down the road it went. Are you getting close to starting on your p52 Paul?